Surf Quiz: What Would You Do?

Man attempts your decapitation in the surf. Blames you. Your response?

Had a little dispute in the surf today. A scenario so outrageous I blew my top. Bared my teeth and strutted like a monkey. But, unlike most cases of chop-suey, I didn’t exit the stage pounding with adrenalin and awash with the usual feelings of shame or vows to seek anger management.

As Dylan Thomas once wrote, “When one burns one’s bridges, what a very nice fire it makes.”

This was righteous. Or maybe I’m wrong. You tell me.

Scenario #1

Clean three-foot runners off a mid-tide bank. Crowded but it ain’t out of control. You’re in a good mood so you wait your turn with what is probably uncharacteristic patience. Ten minutes into sesh, you grab your first wave. It grips the bank and you spiral down the line. Thirty yards later a not-very-good surfer spins, drops in, falls off and you collide. Boards tangled etc.

You come up, and again with what is probably uncharacteristic patience, decide that this world is too precious to sully with fighting and yelling. You grab your board and paddle away without saying a word. Suddenly, you hear the drop-in guy bark, “Sorry for crashing into you but you should have yelled out.” He is examining his 7s carbon-vector construction Super Fish for possible damage.

You find the scenario so difficult to comprehend your patience evaporates. What would you do?

Scenario #2

Fifteen minute after the collision, and after a reasonably hot discussion, you’re describing what happened to a pal. You see in the distance the the 7 carbon-vector construction Super Fish owner shaking his head at you. You paddle very fast to the shaking head. He reiterates his position that it is the surfer on the inside who takes all responsibility for a collision.

What would you do?


Just in: Stab wants to give you money!

Riches set to pour from Venice-adjacent location II!

Do you ever go to the “about” section of websites. Oh what wonders abound therein! The amount of time and thought put in is absolutely palpable. Grown men sitting around a circular conference table asking, “But does it speak to our core demo?” etc. Truly amazing and Stab’s may be the most amazing of all. I went there for the first time today and read…

Surfing ain’t long-hairs and doobie-suckers no more. Surfing is suited-and-booted stockbrokers. It’s university students who’ve smelt the roses and don’t swallow the evening news. It’s just-18-year-olds whose trunks end above the knee. Surfing is beavertails and logs and empowered women who ain’t adverse to a Brazilian cut, but it’s also 540s and double oops. Right now, surfing is goddamn hot and, most of all, inspired.

Long-hairs and doobie-suckers! Like they channeled a knock-off Derek Rielly circa 2004! And do you think Stab ever gets tired of channeling a knock-off Derek Rielly circa 2004? Do you ever think the grown men sitting around their new Venice adjacent location II circular conference table ask, “Does this faux Derek Rielly voice circa 2004 still fit our global vision?”

Maybe but maybe also they don’t care and you shouldn’t care because SurfStitch bought the site for a cool 10 mil last-ish year and now owner Sam McIntosh wants to pass the earnings on to you! Let us continue in their “about” section…

Stab celebrates the champagne end of the spectrum. Got a 720 in your sights? You’re our man. We’ll even gift you cash to make it happen. Trading up flat-spins for their inverted cousin? Take page one. Whether it’s hiring a chopper and shooting Taj Burrow from the Angle of God (issue one), or throwing a blindfolded Bruce Irons over the ledge at Chopes (issue 56), Stab‘s driven by the search for an answer to the question: How sumptuous can surfing be?

Did you catch that? “Got a 720 in your sights? You’re our man. We’ll even gift you cash to make it happen. How sumptuous can surfing be?

What does that mean? How much cash to make it happen? When and where? On what sort of craft? Our own Michael Ciaramella just stuck a superman and the swell + wind is supposed to be perfect for airs all week in Cardiff-by-the-Sea.

Michael? You got this? Make it pay!

Local bodyboarder kid? How hard could it be!


Film: Surfing’s Greatest Comedy!

Give them your money!

Do you remember 2016? A time when Rory Parker was your favorite surf writer and the EPA foolishly assumed its role was important to the American populace? Man, that was forever ago.

Another good thing about 2016 was that Freezing, a short surf-comedy, was presented to the world. It was praised by BeachGrit, Surfer Mag, Matt Warshaw and deservedly so. You can rewatch that hereand enjoy their showreel below!

Well it turns out 2017 isn’t all bad. I’ve just received word from Jeremy Joyce, one of Freezing‘s creators, that the comedic team at Two Eyes Film is set to create a new short — The Outrider — this June. The premise is as follows…

In 1979, North Shore shaper, Mike Strident shaped the most radical board ever ridden – “The Outrider”. Strident’s single fin design changed the game and took him to the very pinnacle of professional wave riding. But then “The Thruster” happened.

Made irrelevant over night by the three-fin movement, Strident’s shaping genius was lost to the dark shadows of the 80’s.
But 40 years later, snake-hipped Californian free surfer, Tommy Tonata is trying to revive “The Outrider” on the point breaks of Malibu and wants Strident to shape him a new board. But Strident would rather stab his eyes out with a spoon.

A surfer and a shaper from totally different eras go face to face; featuring Baja acid trips, talk-show melt downs, surf sequences scored by Tonata’s power axe, karate kick offs in the shaping bay and surfboard design head butts – it’s a comedy.

Oh but, that’s not all… these boys have grand aspirations!

The Outrider is a 26min standalone short film but it is also the pilot for our series “Inside The Ride”.

Our dream is to make a comedy series populated with a whole universe of characters from the surfing psyche. It’s about time surfing films had a mockumentary makeover. These are films for surfers so we are here to ask you to help us make Episode 1… “The Outrider”

Something to be excited about? Only if you’re willing to dish out some dead prez paper! The boys at Two Eyes are currently seeking £10,000 to make the film, which will be shot in Carlsbad, California in one short month.

If you liked Freezing or any of their other stuff, please feel obliged to donate here. It’s for all of us!

Wealthy commentators: for those of you who think you’ve got some writing chops, $250 gets you a line in the film. Anything your twisted little minds can think of, two-fitty will have it become part of surf history.

Poor bastards: $10 gets you a year-early screening of the film. No brainer!


Mercedes-Benz: Sleep, train, surf!

Is jiu-jitsu a vital component of modern surfing?

Do you do jiu-jitsu? Make jiu-jitsu? Rolling? Is that what jiu-jitsu artists call it when they train? Like, do you call your jiu-jitsu artist buddy and say, “Hey bro, wanna do some rolling with me?” Am I getting the verbiage right?

Whatever the case, jiu-jitsu has become such a major component of surfing in the past few years. Even Kelly Slater goes into the dojo to do some rolling though King Dojo Joel Tudor completely disagrees with Slater’s belt color. And lashes out to let the world know.

Real quick, is the place where you do jiu-jitsu rolling called a dojo? A temple? A set? Is the costume called a costume? A kit? Gi? Ghee?

Oh I’m sorry that I keep getting caught up in the morphology. Forgive!

What I’m trying to get at is the close relationship between jiu-jitsu and surfing is so close that Mercedes-Benz can make a gorgeous commercial utilizing both, plus the new German flag and Nazaré and nobody blinks an eye.

It makes perfect sense to roll around on the floor, getting bent and contorted etc. for those surfing big waves. It must give incredible advantage whilst being near-drowned. But what about surfing small-ish waves? Does jiu-jitsu provide great tools for surfing them too? Should jiu-jitsu be as much a part of my routine as drinking booze and making fun of other surfers?

Help!


The Nickies: Surf Website Awards!

It's the greatest night of the year!

(Camera pans around a 1/4 full high school cafeteria. Men featuring varying degrees of decay sit uncomfortably on folding chairs. One wears a freshly pressed Micktory t-shirt. A handful sport AI Forever trucker hats. The host steps to a makeshift stage covered in LEUS towels wearing a Sharp Eye hat, Lost hoodie and Banks Brand trunks with the “Banks Brand” scribbled out with permanent marker. He takes the mic.)

And it that time of year, once again, for the Nickies with all their pomp and circumstance. Their soaring heights and crushing lows. This night we celebrate the best amongst us. This night we celebrate those with highest honor doled out to surf specific websites named after the greatest surf journalist to ever live, Nick Carroll.

(robust applause)

Where would we be without Nick Carroll?

(The host gestures to a muscle man in the audience wearing vintage Quiksilver and reading a brochure for a long distance paddle race. More robust applause as he mouths “thank you fucking cunts”)

So without further ado please turn your attention to the video screen for this year’s nominees…

(The host gestures to an old television being rolled in on a cart. After 20 minutes of fumbling with wires etc. the VHS deck whirs to life and a low-production presentation fills the screen set to a Pennywise soundtrack)

In the “Best Presentation of a Live Surf Contest” category we have:

The World Surf League’s phone app

The Bud Light Lime surf series from 2011 on YouTube

“Best Feature of Mom/Daughter Softcore Pore”

Stab

“Best Surf Website that is Venice-Adjacent”

Stab

The Inertia

“Best Surf Website with a Writer Dying by Cop”

BeachGrit

“Best Surf Website to Never Get Read”

Surf Europe

ESPN surf

“Best Surf Scandal covered by a Surf Website”

Owen Wright’s FCS fin popping out of his board at Margaret River on Stab

Owen Wright’s FCS fin popping out of his board at Margaret River on The Inertia

Owen Wright’s FCS fin popping out of his board on Waves

Owen Wright’s FCS fin popping out of his board on Surfline

Owen Wright’s FCS fin popping out of his board on BeachGrit

Owen Wright’s FCS fin popping out of his board on FCS’s website

Owen Wright’s FCS fin popping out of his board on Surfer

Owen Wright’s FCS fin popping out of his board on Magic Seaweed

(The TV screen goes black. The host comes back up to the LEUS stage awkwardly this time wearing a Hurley shirt and Hurley Phantom trunks)

Technology. Am I right?

(Even more robust applause)

I forgot to save the rest of the categories before coming here today. That’s a WordPress joke…

(The most robust applause. Nick Carroll has even put down his brochure for a long distance paddling race and is cheering)

…so we’ll pick this up tomorrow. Goodnight and good luck.

(The surf journalists stumble out of the high school cafeteria depressed and frustrated. Nothing happened yesterday for them to write about. Nothing happened today save Kelly Slater buying a house on the North Shore and it has already been covered by Stab)