Nic Lamb seen wearing a wetsuit and booties.

Blood Feud: Big wave star vs. Kooks!

Nic Lamb makes the vaunted Kook of the Day instagram feed. Hilarity ensues!

Of course you know Instagram and of course you follow @kook_of_the_day. Its brand of self-reflective humor keeps us all in stitches! Two days ago the people insisted that Santa Cruz big wave surfer Nic Lamb be the “Kook of the Day” and then proceeded to smash away on the poor boy in the comments section.

I had watched the offending video earlier in the day and thought it very well done. The story-telling, camerawork etc. all first rate. Nic, himself, seemed a little…how do we say…try-hard? He is getting ready for the Titans of Mavericks party, for example, and speaking about how “most of the guys who dress like surfers aren’t really surfers” and how “appearance is  key” and about how “dude, I like wearing tailored suits. I like wearing tailored Armani tailored suits and Ferragamos…” before getting in a red Ferrari. Nathan Fletcher tells him he looks like PeeWee Herman. Very funny. Watch here!

And I thought that was that until Jimmy the Saint pointed me toward @kook_of_the_day and there was Nic with the comment “We couldn’t catch the rental company number on the side of that Ferrari, hook us up! The people spoke and nominated you for #KOTD bud…sorry, but not really sorry.”

Sheesh, did the people ever speak! Almost 500 comments of vitriol poured upon Nic Lamb’s tailored Armani suit and Ferragamos!

@nedhago said, “And the worlds biggest douche bag award goes to.”

@supremeboy7 said, “What a douchelord Who gives a shit about what you wear. ‘Ugh I only wear tuxedos when I go to the grocery store because people who wear normal clothes…aren’t normal people.’ go fuck yaself buddy.”

@kanyemc said, “HOLE. LEE. SHIT”

@agentnein said, “kook of the decade.”

etc. etc. etc.

Totally worth to go on and have a gander yourself. I find myself feeling, a little, for Nic and if I could tender one piece of advice it would be to trade his Ferragamo in for a conservative Edward Green lace-up.

You’re welcome!


Blood Feud: Gold vs. Sunshine Coast!

Mick Fanning employed in vicious attack!

Australia is a world of wonder and if you have never been there is no excuse. Both Qantas and Virgin are very serviceable etc. The continent’s interior is maybe nice, I have never been, but its coasts sparkle. Western Australia is a revelation and both the Gold and Sunshine coasts on the eastern shelf are fine.

But apparently they hate each other! Apparently tourism numbers are slipping for the Gold Coast while the Sunshine Coast is experiencing a boom thanks to hipster coffee etc. I think Dion Agius lives on the Sunshine Coast now.

Martin Winter, Gold Coast Tourism head, said, “You’re joking mate…” when informed of these new facts. “There’s nothing there.”

Ouch. But the overconfidence might belie a deeper insecurity. The Gold Coast has launched a new advertising campaign that shows more hipster coffee, fussy cocktails, alternative surf craft and you’re favorite white surfer Mick Fanning!

“It’s easy living, pretty much…” he says “…whatever you want it’s here.”

Is his fourth World Title there? Is his massive wetsuit neck tan? Which cost is better, the Sunshine or the Gold? And with which professional surfer would you best like to go on vacation?

Watch the Gold Coast’s salvo here and let’s wait for the Sunshine’s response!


Greg Noll wonders things too, no doubt.

Hmm: “What’s the deal with Greg Noll?”

And other important questions.

A great man once said, “If you speak with authority you’ll be treated as an authority.” That great man was me, and the quote sums up how I approach most of my interpersonal interactions. I figured out a long time ago that no one really has any idea what’s going on, and most people will treat any strongly worded statement as fact. Hardly a secret, I know, but it’s a fun thing to keep in mind when you spend a ton of time playing with words.

The hardest part is remembering it’s all an act. That I too am utterly clueless, and the fact that someone believes my bullshit doesn’t mean I speak from any real knowledge.

Some shit, though, I just don’t get. And, no matter how hard I try, I can’t string together a series of lies that resembles sense. The following are some of those things:

Who buys pro models? Remember the Surftech Channel Islands Kelly Slater model? Who the hell bought those things? I used to see them everywhere. Speaking of Slater…

Has a product with KS’s name on it ever actually sold? I bought a K Grip pad when I was a young impressionable lad, and it was terrible. White, so it got filthy, no traction, so I had to wax it. It did look cool, though, right off the rack. Off the top of my head I can remember Slater brand skateboards, a quick search shows that he even had a model on Arbor a few years back.

What’s the deal with Greg Noll? He quit surfing in 1969, right? That’s 46 years ago! But, for whatever reason, surfing’s obsession with its past has kept him semi-relevant ever since.

Why Rio? Brazil digs surfing, and absolutely deserves to have a tour event. But is Rio really the best combination of accessibility and consistency? Or is it some sort of pseudo-conspiracy predicated upon the fact that their surfers have traditionally excelled in that type of slop?

Is Fu Wax still a thing? I was gifted a few bars of a super sticky knock off a couple years back, and it was murder. Way too much traction, basically waxed my chest every time I paddled out. Plus, I don’t surf nearly well enough to glue my foot into whatever position it’s in when it initially hits my board. Which is the same reason I’ve always hated wearing booties.

Why is RVCA pronounced “ruca”? It’s confusing. And I wonder what’s going on with Conan Hayes’s fraud charges? Legal wheels turn slowly, but he’s looking at a decent stint in jail if they can make the charges stick. Which I sincerely hope they do not, since defrauding a mortgage company shouldn’t even be a crime.

Will SurfStitch try to buy out BeachGrit? Oh god, I hope so. I’ll sell out the moment I get a chance, would even agree to stay on board and shill away any legitimacy I have.


Danny Fuller: “I was a human turtle!”

Is there a more interesting personality, currently, in all of surf?

What Youth, the wonderful magazine/website/production house from Costa Mesa, California has been around now for five-ish years and how fantastic for the surf world. Their blend of introspection, high performance, quality and skill make for such a pleasant experience. Bravo, I say.

One of their latest pieces on Danny Fuller is consistent with the brand in that it is very well done. And is there a more interesting surfer, right now than he? From Kauai to New York the man moves effortlessly between worlds. Or seemingly so. I saw him at Disneyland not too long ago and his life appears very full. Take a break, this Black Friday, and snuggle down with some good story-telling on a fascinating personality. Oh and don’t thank me for this present, thank What Youth.

Fairlynormal_Dannyfuller_final_master web from What Youth on Vimeo.


Sigh: The most romantic proposal!

So sweet it'll melt your ears!

Because I’m the healthiest sick person on earth I had the pleasure of spending my entire morning on the phone, using my sweetest fake nice phone voice to try and weasel my way into the last minute physical and hearing test I need before I go under for my latest god damn ear surgery.

For those keeping count, this will be the fourth time I’ve had an ear cut mostly off, then sewn back on. Third time for the left, ol’ Rightie’s had an easy go of it.

Thanks to our blessed Obama’s elimination of pre-existing conditions I have killer insurance. A lifelong series of head hole difficulties, coupled with my apparent prediliction for post-slam ER trips, would have made me un-insurable in the not so recent past. But, fuck, if I was expected to pay for all this shit out of pocket?

Going over hospital bills blows my mind. The sheer amount of debt you’d run up if you got seriously hurt and weren’t covered? It’s just so far beyond reason, I don’t know why people even bother paying a cent. Sure, it’d ruin your credit, but when you’re saddled with $500k+ ruination you’ll never be able to afford anything anyway.

Even when you’re safely covered, you’ve gotta stay on top of everyone when it comes time to pay up. Constant overcharges, bullshit “errors”- never in your favor. The people who supplied me with my IV stuff “accidentally” racked up over $1000, didn’t refund me until I noticed and called a few months later.

“Oh, we noticed that, I was just about to process your refund.”
How convenient.

Health insurance is really the only reason I’m married. After my wife finished law school she was uninsured for a few months. And, wouldn’t you know it? Here’s this weird lump in her tit!

Scary stuff, though in the end it was nothing. But the affair led to the most romantic proposal in the history of mankind.

“So, you know, if we were married you could just get on my plan.”

“Yeah, oof, I know.”

“And we’ll probably get a better tax rate when you find a law job.”

“Yeah…”

“So, like, you think we should just do it? It’s been twelve years, it’s not like either of us is going anywhere.”

“That’s true. Fuck it. Do we have to have a wedding?”

“Our families will probably get pissed if we don’t. Let’s just only give them a few weeks notice and not offer to pay for anything. No one will come that way.”

“Will you sign a pre-nup?”

“Hell no. I get half.”

I’m not sure how it works in countries with socialized medicine. I know we have a few readers from NZ and Aus, you all got that deal going, right? American propaganda tells us that your medical care sucks and that you’re taxed out the asses for it. Which doesn’t seem ideal. I’m sure I could find out the truth with a few hours spent online, but I’m not gonna bother.

Our deal works out pretty well. The majority of the premium is covered by the wife’s employer. Our share, while not small, isn’t particularly onerous. So I guess I can see the appeal of this system. If we were expected to pay a percentage it’d be more than just paying our little employer subsidized portion. Other people are out of luck, they can go get fucked. USA!

Even so, we’ve paid out enough this year to buy a boat. And I really want a little zodiac to run about. And I don’t want to feel lucky to have access to quality medical care. And I really wish I didn’t have to leave Kauai to get this shit done. And I really, really, really hope that none of the nursing staff decides molest my sexily unconscious body.