Knob-twisting Big Red, above, with Dirty Water co-pilots DR, left, and Charlie.

Listen: Wavepool maestro Cheyne Magnusson talks “midget naked asian boys jumping out of cakes” and making magic at vintage Palm Springs tank, “Gimme a bunch of knobs to move water and I can make it sing!”

Everything you ever wanted to know about artificial wave creation in one easy to swallow pill.

In today’s episode of Dirty Water, fall under the spell of the Hawaiian surfer Cheyne Magnusson, who singlehandedly altered the course of aerial surfing at BSR cable park in Waco and who is creating a new wavepool at the old Wet ‘n’ Wild site in Palm Springs, California.

Cheyne, who left his Texas shack for a mid-century mod in La Quinta near Palm Springs a year-and-a-half ago, is in very good form here, unsurprising given his previous career as a reality TV star on the hit MTV show Maui Fever.

The talk, initially, follows the travails of Charlie’s raunchy three-way date in Palm Springs with a Mr Gay Universe (“Big broad shoulders and a perfect pectoral girdle”), but soon dips into the world of artificial wave creation, from selling the American Wave Machines tech to BSR cable park in Waco and manipulating the buttons until it became the most sough-after ramp in the world to joining hands with the “godfather of artificial waves” Tom Lochtefeld to soup up the ancient Wet ‘n’ Wild site.

“I come in and play the piano,” Cheyne explains of his role complementing the wave tech. “Give me a bunch of knobs to move water and I can make it sing.”

(Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcast, Stitcher, TuneIn + Alexa, iHeartRadio, Overcast, Pocket Cast, Castro, Castbox, Podcast Addict, Podchaser, Deezer and Listen Notes.)

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Watch: The future of wave pool technology features surfers getting smashed into glass walls while onlookers place bets on who will die first!

"Waves are beautiful and dynamic in themselves but we chose them as our subject because they evoke feelings of comfort."

Wave pool technology and advancement has seemed to stall, along with everything else in the time of Coronavirus. The only place where excitement reigns is in Palm Springs, California where Cheyne Magnusson is twisting the dials of a mid-century masterpiece while Kalani Robb croons Frank Sinatra and Seoul, South Korea where the finishing touches are being added to a glass box hovering over the Gangnam District featuring a giant wave that will soon provide blood sport for happy people dancing like this.

The “art simulation” developed by Samsung and called WAVE took four months to develop and breaks one minute per hour in a box measuring 262 by 66 feet. A rate only slightly better than Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch.

Surfers have not been added yet but when they are it can be assumed the less-adroit will be smashed up against the glass walls in an exceptionally gory display.

South Koreans, known for their love of kimchi and betting, will eat kimchi and wager on which surfer will bleed first.

Business development director Jul Lee at d’strict, the group that co that designed the WABE said, “We want to create overwhelming experiences. Waves are beautiful and dynamic in themselves but we chose them as our subject because they evoke feelings of comfort – which is much needed now.”

Smashed surfers will provide more feelings of comfort still.

Surfer-father and young daughter (pictured) getting robbed by Target.
Surfer-father and young daughter (pictured) getting robbed by Target.

Doomed: Big Brother employs new “gait tracking” technology, surfers and our distinctive “sloth-like” canter specifically targeted!

Did the Coronavirus mask give you small comfort in avoiding facial recognition software?

I, like you, have become resigned to the days of our lives in this the time of Coronavirus. Fun banished. The same day over and over and over again. Sitting in a restaurant or bar an almost forgotten memory. Knowing this, right here, will be the best of it all.

Blue chip companies are beginning to drop and will act as an anchor on the economy as a whole, dragging it down to the worst depression in modern history. Worse, Netflix, Hulu, Amazon etc. will run out of new content by November leaving us only with re-runs of Bethany Hamilton’s Soul Surfer on loop.


We’ll all turn to crime in order to put food on the table and, thankfully, have grown accustomed to wearing masks. I was in Target a few days ago with my young daughter (picture above) marveling at this one silver lining. Anonymous to security cameras, to facial recognition software, to Big Brother himself.


Well, it turns out that Big Brother is ahead of us all, thanks to cursed China, and that surfers will be specifically and quiet easily targeted.


By our distinctive sloth-like canter of course and let us become depressed once again.

Did you know that your stride is as unique as your fingerprint? Your walking style is an identifying characteristic just as much as your DNA. Sounds absurd, right?

I heard a story five years ago about how FBI operatives were trained to recognize a target based solely on the way they walked. Basically, the idea was that everyone had a gait (stride) that was unique to them. And if you learned someone’s gait, then you could easily identify them amongst a crowd, even if they were wearing a disguise.

I’ll be honest, I was skeptical. It didn’t really make sense. What if you purposely limped or slowed down? Wouldn’t this throw it off?

Well, as it turns out, gait recognition is a real thing. And the technology is well on its way.

We’ve all heard of facial recognition technology being used to identify people via surveillance cameras. Well, Watrix is a company in China that is taking a different approach through technology known as gait recognition software.

On the piece goes, detailing how gait recognition is virtually impossible to fool and how surfers will be rounded up, en masse, and sent to Lemoore, California where Kelly Slater will still rule us but only as a mid-level manager since he will, for sure collaborate, with the Chinese government.

The sun will be hot, the dust dry, Beijing’s politburo will surf “The Ranch” but there will be no more energy to pull “The Blue Train” so we will be strapped to it, heaving and ho-ing, while Slater stands on top cracking the whip.

Screaming, “Make barrel!” etc.

Best enjoy these your last moments of “freedom” I suppose.

Watch: Chas Smith penetrates the Wall of Positive Noise, has tear-jerking chat with World Surf League all-stars Kaipo Guerrero and Pete Mel!

God bless professional surfing.

Tears filled my eyes yesterday afternoon and threatened to cascade down my cheeks. I was sober, of relatively sound mind, decidedly not on an airplane watching the movie Bridesmaids (the last time I openly wept).


I was in my own backyard having a chat with two of the best World Surf League commentators to ever strap on a lavalier, Kaipo Guerrero and Pete Mel, on their new-ish show Any Kine Live.

To hear their voices again, to see their faces… it was almost more than I could bear.

Oh how I miss professional surfing, and I’m not too proud to admit. How I miss the chatter, the bad heats, the reclaimed wooden desk, the interviews, Ron, Joe, Rose, Kaipo, Pete, ’88… even ’89.

Our lives are cold, dark without them but, for one brief moment, I was allowed to bask in that warm light once again.

What did we discuss?

How Pete wants to be known for more than simply being an unrelenting sex symbol.

How Kaipo has destroyed his financial future by once opting for business class.

How professional surfing should be conducted in the future.

Would you like your eyes to well up with tears too?

Bon appétit.

The bridesmaid has officially become the bride.
The bridesmaid has officially become the bride.

Listen: “When all is said and done, Taj Burrow is the world’s most popular surfer, Channel Islands the world’s most popular board!”

They're number1!

Yesterday afternoon found me walking home from a bootleg visit to the neighborhood park with my young daughter. She was on roller skates. The park is, officially, open but the playground remains closed as it theoretically breeds and spreads the novel Coronavirus.

My young daughter don’t care, though, and we spent thirty-odd minutes playing hardcore roller derby on the playgrounds squishy floor.

Very fun then we both got thirsty and walked/rolled home.

Midway, I heard a father of two young boys shouting, “Merrick! Pick up your toys!”

Merrick certainly named after the Channel Islands’ Merricks, Al and Britt. I personally know three boys under the age of eight named Merrick. I don’t know any Preisendorfers, Handleys, Haydens, Velzeys, McTavishes etc.

Have never heard a father shout, “Biolos Smith… you apologize to your sister right now!”

Likewise, I have never met a young/adult boy named Slater but know four Tajs.

The more I pondered, the more I came to the undeniable conclusion that the Merricks, Al and Britt, are the most popular surfboard shapers in the world and Taj Burrow its most popular surfer.

The proof is in the pudding, as it were.

David Lee Scales and discussed this, Laura Enever’s new film, Tyler Wright’s girlfriend and dirty hippie feet on this The Grit!’s 70th episode.

Will you like? Probably not but Joe Rogan just sold his podcast for one-hundred million U.S. dollars.

That is a lot of money.

How much is The Grit! worth? Listen here and form an opinion!