"The ocean, always a place of transformative powers with the ability to wash away sadness and depression, now feels foreboding and dark."
The biggest concerted effort to keep surfers from the ocean since, when? The coastal lockdowns of World War II?
The gender war just got hotter!
He is simultaneously the Duke Kahanamoku, Miki Dora, Tom Curren and Kelly Slater of his sport; its godfather figure, its biggest legend, its most stylish practitioner and its greatest champion.
I don't see tribe; I see competitors for a finite resource. I only care about the environment if it's going to affect my ability to go surfing.
"You sold your flagship companies to corporate raiders, your peak governing body to a New York billionaire, the very experience of riding waves to those celebrities and moneyed types who can cough up $80,000 for a day…"