Jimmicane, Surfing Magazine’s wonderful personality/photo-editor/photographer, loves all things Florida. He loves the Jacksonville Jaguars like they are a real football team. He loves Florida State University like it is a real institution of higher learning. He loves the state’s population like every single man, woman, child is not clinically insane. And now he can love that the Florida Institute of Technology offers Surf Engineering Analysis for college credit!
That’s right. If you are like Jimmy and don’t mind living with face eating zombies, you can move to Melbourne, just east of Orlando, and major in Ocean Engineering and take classes in Surf Engineering Analysis. What is it? The course description says that it “focuses on the physics of waves in the surf zone. Students design a field experiment on their own to collect data about force balances, buoyancy and hydrodynamic drag.”
The associate professor who designed the course, Robert Weaver, says, “Ocean engineering has one of the highest graduate incomes of any of the engineering disciplines. I’m hoping that this class and this program can help play a role in dismantling the old surfer stigma that associates surfers with being aimless beach bums.”
Students get a Rip Curl GPS surf watch (at cost), two customized surfboards with special cutout boxes for measurement instruments and maybe a GoPro. Then they go to the beach and surf and let all their stuff work. Class jargon calls it “movement-based data.”
I don’t know what else they do but I hope they drive fancy cars, once graduating, and go to work for Surfline…those dirty, rich sex freaks.
Have you ever seen such a foregone conclusion? An event, sewn up, on day one?
A few hours ago, and as predicted (here), Filipe Toledo, won the final of the Oi Rio Pro in clean enough three-footers. He beat Bede Durbidge 19.87 to 14.70 and the only surprise, if there was one, was that Bede threw up some decent numbers.
Filipe didn’t drop a heat the entire event, throwing blitzkrieg-like heat scores of 16.27 (round one, beating Kolohe and Melling), 15.60 (round three, Wiggoly Dantas), 17.83 (round four, Banting and John John), 15.00 (quarter-final, Ricky Christie), 15.94 (semi against Italo Ferreira) and a near-perfect 19.87 in the final.
Filipe is now 550 points behind Adriano De Souza in second place.
Third on the board, but five thousand points behind Filipe, is Mick Fanning.
The other title contenders? John John is ten thousand away in seventh, Kelly is in 13th with exactly half Filipe’s points and the current world champ, Gabriel Medina is 16,000 points off the pace in 19th.
A three-way title race between Adriano, Filipe and Mick Fanning is the obvious play here. And, Filipe, who only turned 20 a few weeks ago, would become the youngest world champion, ever, beating Kelly’s record by two months, if he wins in December.
But so much swatting to go between hither and yon! So much can happen in the warp and woof of competition!
So let’s concentrate our attention on Filipe’s perfect 10, the cleanest stomp in competition, the not-an-air-reverse, but clean…clean… rotation. Yeah, they’ve been bigger hits (John John and Julian, even Andy Irons in Mex, way back).
But moves like this are the springs of competition, of progression. Look, below, at the way he saws and nails and measures, lifting and weighting that front foot for speed, an easy rhythm, and almost without an awareness of what’s to come next. Power and form and the cleanest and most dignified landing you’ll ever see. Tens from every single judge.
As the former pro Brad Gerlach, a surfer who was also rated number one aged 20, told BeachGrit yesterday, “He’s not thinking. He’s surfing so spontaneously you don’t know what he’s going to do. He doesn’t know what he’s going to do. And that’s fucking awesome. What surprises me about a lot of the guys I watch is they’re confident but they look conservative on the wave. Filipe’s excited to be surfing!”
Matt Meola is the 20-year-old surfer from Maui with whom you’ve become acquatinted with over the past couple of years, mostly from his flips and tweaked spins, but also from his surprisingly strong showings at Jaws.
It’s a style of surfing he calls el modernismo. Lavishly contradictory airs that protest the sensibility of competition-style surfing, Filipe and John John excepted.
Landed two weeks ago, but released today, is Matt’s first-ever Spindle Flip 540. A Spindle Flip, in case y’aint aware, is like the ol bodyboarder el rollo, complete with double grab, except spun the opposite way. The bodyboarder rolls with the lip and towards the beach. Matt’s is the counterintuitive version. (El Modernismo, lavishly contradictory… )
And, this with its extra rotation, adds another layer of sugar. Matt says he was going to backflip but switched the rote to match the section and ended up SF540.
If your own game is rail and jam, this might leave you cold, your eyes glassing over.
I mean, those kids!
But get into the minutiae of the hit: see how heavy the section is, the size of the wave, the utter directness and intensity, the way Matt recomposes his body, and you might start to become dazzled by its radiance.
A pod of Great White sharks is winning hearts at Huntington Beach!
At least six Great White sharks, ranging from five to eight feet in length, were recently photographed just outside the surf line in Surfside, California, an Orange County gated community.
Response to the pictures has been mixed: local residents expressing emotions ranging from appreciation of the animals’ beauty to baseless fears created by inflammatory media coverage and lack of knowledge regarding shark behavior.
News of the increased shark presence comes only weeks after a fatal attack on a 65-year-old woman off the coast of Maui. Leading sharkologists are currently investigating whether the attacks may be related, current theories point towards an evolutionary adaptation that causes greater shark fertility in the presence of human blood.
With the recent closure of the beaches in Reunion Island to surfing and a four-year period that has seen more than 35 attacks in Hawaii alone over the last four years, shark aggression is rapidly becoming a global concern.
Online sentiment, combined with a rapidly approaching summer season sure to draw millions of beach-goers to the Golden State’s sandy shores, indicates a potential for a bloodbath unseen since the sinking of the USS Indianapolis.
Local authorities have probably advised residents to remain calm and stay indoors until the danger has passed.
The great generational change we thought was going to be wrought by Jordy or John John or Dane is being delivered, on our screens, in dramatically increasing increments by a surfer who was still in his teens a few weeks ago. (Filipe turned 20 on April 16.)
Three years on tour and, despite the occasional huck, it wasn’t until Snapper Rocks in March that the full breadth of his ability was finally revealed to the world. Watch the final here.
When the Oi Rio Pro wraps up some time tomorrow, Brazil time, unless Filipe is suddenly blinded by God, Filipe will win and he’ll slide into a tight second-place on the tour ratings, just behind Adriano de Souza.
Look at his results. Snapper, he wins. Bell… Bells… a fifth. The QS at Lowers. He wins it. And now, a guaranteed third or better. Heat averages of nearly 16 points or an eight on every scoring ride.
One great surfer, a former pro turned coach, who adores everything about Filipe (and who was rated #1 in the world on tour when he was the same age) is the American Brad Gerlach, a former world number two and world title contender.
“I watch Filipe so I can teach my students how to be the best,” says Gerr. “I watch him to learn and to confirm all the things I’ve learned.”
Personally, I wanted to know, how does the tour solve a problem like Filipe? I’d asked Jeremy Flores and he said, “Uh, hope he makes a mistake.”
Gerlach, I knew, would at least have some practical ideas.
BeachGrit: So tell me, in your opinion, why is Filipe unbeatable?
Gerlach: Why? He’s technically superior. And then, he’s not thinking. He’s surfing so spontaneously you don’t know what he’s going to do. He doesn’t know what he’s going to do. And that’s fucking awesome. What surprises me about a lot of the guys I watch is they’re confident but they look conservative on the wave. Filipe’s excited to be surfing! And his posture’s good, but his front foot is the biggest reason he’s so gnarly. He uses his back foot but not like a Bede Durbidge or even Conner (Coffin) for that matter. Slater is too. Dane’s front-footed but he knows how to use his back foot. And so does Filipe.
BeachGrit: Okay, so this is the big thing… we’ve seen four generations of surfers on their back foot. All power, with a little air. Why is the front foot so important?
Gerlach: Front foot is acceleration. You have to have your weight and hips over your front foot to accerlate. When you’re too heavy on your back foot there’s a delay as you shift your weight to your front foot. Filipe’s whole momentum is going through his front foot so he’s not getting that delayed, stuck-at-the-top feeling and the reason he’s landing so many aerials is he knows where he’s going to land before he leaves the water. He has a clear picture in his mind where he’s going to land. He’s not up there in the air going, “I’ll see where I am when I’m up in the air”. The better surfer you are, the slower the wave appears to you. With Filipe, the wave looks slow and he has plenty of time to see exactly what he’s going to do. It’s a beautiful thing to watch.
BeachGrit: At Snapper, in the final against Julian Wilson, the difference was stark. Julian seemed almost… heavy.
Gerlach: Julian uses his front foot a lot but when I watch Julian surf it looks like he’s thinking all the time. He lets it go occasionally, like on a video he’ll go up and do one of those beautiful backside wafts, but, generally, he’s thinking too much and there’s a disconnect between your head and your body. But, fuck, Julian’s incredible. His surfing is absolutely smooth and beautiful and critical so I’m not writing it off. I’m talking subtleties and the difficulty of an opponent like Filipe. In that final, it looked like Filipe didn’t care about winning. He was excited to be on the waves and doing what the wave called for. And that’s just a natural thing he’s doing right now.
BeachGrit: What advice would you give Kelly re: Filipe?
Gerlach: Same thing. I feel Kelly could try less. I think Kelly loses power when he tries too hard, we all do, I do, and I don’t surf good when I’m trying hard. But it’s hard to switch that off when you’re in competition. In order to score you need to do certain things. But, Kelly could position himself more radically with less force. Kelly’s capable of so much flexibility, if he turned it down half a notch and focused a little more on how radical a position on the wave he could get… Kelly thinks he needs to throw a lot of water around to get the score. Kelly can do traditional and he can do progressive so he’d be way better if he turned it down a little. I was talking about that with him South Africa years ago, and I said, be less statement oriented. Can you be positionally radical? The guy is so fucking good all you have to do is give him a clue and he’ll be on it. You know what? He’ll… read this… and I hope he does because I’d love to see him take it to Filipe. It’s not an ageing thing. Surfing isn’t about muscle. The power is all in the wave. Nobody has more power than the wave.
BeachGrit: Let’s imagine you were 25 again and surfing against Filipe. What’s your strategy?
Gerlach: I would surf more positionally radical than him. He’s doing turns where the wave isn’t especially hollow ’cause he can blow his fins out and he can fly in the air. I’d use the bottom of the wave and go straight back up at the pitching lip and do redirected turns slightly under the lip, keeping the rail in the water. I mean, it wouldn’t be easy. But I wouldn’t be trying to go and blow my fins bigger than him or do bigger airs. I’d try and be more creative. To beat Filipe as an older guy you would need to train to initiate your rail turns earlier and position them more vertically. Rail surfing but in the super critical part of the wave. That’s what I train my students to do. People can feel those turns. Conner does some mental ones at J-Bay. At that level, if you get 10 per cent better it could be the difference between an incredible career and an average one. Rail game out on the shoulder is outdated, by the way.
BeachGrit: Where do you think performance surfing is going?
Gerlach: Everyone will be doing big airs, yeah we know that, but they’ll be used more fluidly and it’ll come down to what you can do on the wave face as well as what can be done above the lip. Eventually, it’ll be how you put it all together, not just turns or airs in isolation.
BeachGrit: What else y’got?
Gerlach: Well, I don’t want this to sound like I know it all, it’s just that I see a lot of stuff. My dad was my coach and he never surfed. You don’t have to do something to understand it. What do I do? I get on the heat analyser and watch every single wave Flipe has. It’s, like, thank fucking god there’s someone spontaneous and radical and with a decent style.