"I woke up with so much fear this morning."
The rapidly-becoming legendary Koa Rothman on what it takes to surf the world's most famous big-wave spot.
"Right when I slammed, I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine.”
Surfing may be a world of marvels but it also a world of horrors…
It was here I discovered twerking, where local women crouch in front of their mark, quivering glutes devouring his dingus like a wolf.
A magnificent and mesmerising spectacle!
"The crowd factor is off the charts. The danger factor as well. It truly is a modern gladiator pit. Truly No Country For Men.”
A horrible and magnificent spectacle…
"Not a safe session."
“Look at me! I’m the most famous person you’ve ever met!”
"Stuck in down-drafts of boils in the water felt like it wanted to pull you down below!"
"Fascinating, compulsive, horrifying!"
Ho jackknifes his legs and bares his teeth in mock orgasm at each tube that descends upon him; his little pal Dylan Wilcoxen snips off any of Ho’s excess.
Nathan Florence, twenty-eight and with reddish brown eyes like dried blood, is the pool boy and the pizza boy in this flick, editing…and… starring.
Each session stimulates Ho to such an extent he may have twenty to fifty completed airs on tape within two hours.
The epic influence of Kelly Slater captured in wildly candid moment.