An endless treasure and battlefield…
"I notice a change, in my short time of paying attention to the weather where I live, 20 or so years, and that is alarming."
But only a disdainful pinprick! Surfs first South African winter in fourteen years…
"Even when the conditions are shit, riding waves is the best thing in the world," says Dane.
Daddy-hood, the Olympic thing, banged up knee, the compelling and perennial joys of a patriarchal monogamous marriage etc.
Surfing's future flicks on the lights…
Courage, intelligence and absolute honesty!
A very good chance to contrast and compare with newly minted, and almost retired, world champ Gabriel Medina.
If you don't fall asleep there's plenty to look at…
How many times have we seen Mason, from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?
"I'm bullshit proof!"
A gift, I don’t think is overstating things, from the media house of John John Florence and the makers of the inclusive surf-hijab, Florence Marine X.
Mason Ho solo surfs wild point wave near site of upcoming WSL contest!
Magic lurks around every corner if you leave yourself available to it.
The season of darkness and light.
Russell is twenty-four years old, diminutive and old world, with a tight mouth and very plain-face that have the ferocity of an angry cuckold, a cranky Italian denied his lunchtime siesta.