John John Florence releases Pipeline documentary four years in the making, “It draws us toward obsession, the power and the glory and the grandeur!”
An endless treasure and battlefield…
Go-for-broke former world #4 surfer Dane Reynolds makes urgent public appeal for data on climate change, “Is the earth a microwave choking on carbon and there’s no turning back?”
"I notice a change, in my short time of paying attention to the weather where I live, 20 or so years, and that is alarming."
South African superstar Jordy Smith reveals his (almost) descent into COVID-lockdown madness in a Jozi hotel room, “It was as full of the vibrations of power as machines which rout out grooves in wood!”
But only a disdainful pinprick! Surfs first South African winter in fourteen years…
Go-for-broke former world #4 surfer Dane Reynolds releases new riposte to WSL’s “pandering bullshit that’s exploiting surfing!”
"Even when the conditions are shit, riding waves is the best thing in the world," says Dane.
South African superstar Jordy Smith reveals why he disappeared from the tour, his Olympic heartbreak and the brutal bloody war with fibrous knee growths in, “How much more chance for an honest lover than a brave bull?”
Daddy-hood, the Olympic thing, banged up knee, the compelling and perennial joys of a patriarchal monogamous marriage etc.
Waco tank heavily bombed by groundbreaking teenage surfers Jackson Dorian, Sky Brown and Erin Brooks, “There is going to be a total bloodletting on tour!”
Surfing's future flicks on the lights…
Hawaiian surf star whose head was caved in by reef in near-fatal wipeout only three years ago makes triumphant return to spotlight!
Courage, intelligence and absolute honesty!
See two-time world champion surfer John John Florence’s wild transition from “natural” to “hot switchblade”!
A very good chance to contrast and compare with newly minted, and almost retired, world champ Gabriel Medina.
Two-time world surfing champ John John Florence releases all black-and-white and infra-red film four years in the making; gifts viewer “the orgasm-of-the-eye passion that an art fanatic lavishes upon the most fabulous piece in his collection!”
If you don't fall asleep there's plenty to look at…
Hawaii’s queen of crazy Mason Ho reveals latest secret wave in “With a quiver of exquisite pleasure he touched the warm soft water and touched her wetness for a moment in a kiss!”
How many times have we seen Mason, from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?
Santa Barbara father-of-three Dane Reynolds makes surprise surf hit of the summer, “I picture the human mind as a movie screen. We are the absolute bosses of that whole theatre and show in our minds!”
"I'm bullshit proof!"
Two-time world champion surfer John John Florence rinses off shock Olympic failure with unmissable short film, “Rhythm is something you either have or don’t have, but when you have it, you have it all over!”
A gift, I don’t think is overstating things, from the media house of John John Florence and the makers of the inclusive surf-hijab, Florence Marine X.
Hawaii’s Queen of Crazy Mason Ho conquers unridable Mexican drainers in, “What if we are all simply lost souls blown off course, just trying to get home?”
Mason Ho solo surfs wild point wave near site of upcoming WSL contest!
Jackson Dorian’s latest short film, set in Oaxaca, Mexico, and starring Tom Curren is funny, full of wonder and “suggests a post-pandemic tone!”
Magic lurks around every corner if you leave yourself available to it.
Surfers ride empty perfect waves as COVID ravages Indonesia; 21,000 cases per day, 58,000 dead; country “on edge of catastrophe!”
The season of darkness and light.
See: big-wave surfer Russell Bierke’s tiny antlers sucked dry in, “Seething electric ecstasy, spasms of delirium, frictional satisfaction!”
Russell is twenty-four years old, diminutive and old world, with a tight mouth and very plain-face that have the ferocity of an angry cuckold, a cranky Italian denied his lunchtime siesta.