"I woke up with so much fear this morning."
“What keeps me motivated is survival. Not drowning!”
"Right when I slammed, I just felt kind of a snap in my lower back, right on my spine.”
The generous comic mouth laughs easily, but there is a lot of living and some pain printed in the eyes.
See the carrot-topped master chase the rarest prize in all of surfing, a wave at The Pipe!
And, he ain’t the only one the damned novelty wave almost claims.
For a man of almost forty years who looks like a hamburger on a griddle, an overgrown Annie doll, Jamie O continues to delight.
Grotesque, but hypnotizing!"
A horrible and magnificent spectacle…
A terrifying spectacle!
High-gloss entertainment from the master puppeteer!
"Not a safe session."
“I stumbled onto a lot of things people didn’t understand."
Eight years almost to the day since the Woody Harrelson lookalike destroyed knee in similar circumstances!
"Stuck in down-drafts of boils in the water felt like it wanted to pull you down below!"