"It was like in a movie. I was completely out of air and I was still swimming to the top. I can't believe I made it."

Dylan Graves explores the essential nature of fun while immersing himself in the surf culture of whatever outpost he has delivered himself to.

"It worked so well we were tripping! Might try on a tow day at Chopes next?”

And on a borrowed old board! Like, yike!

Put on your rubber gloves and submerge your fist in this jar of goo!

Wild booing, baby Darwin on site, the crowd a sea of golden Florence hats!

“Built like a duck and surfing like a big cat.”

Do you think I'm crazy fantasising about a wave on the Snake River in Wyoming that I've never seen in person?

"This is one of the most cosmic experiences I've ever had!"

"We're going to see if we can stand up on a wave…"

For a man whose immutable sadness is masked by vivacity, Dane Reynolds is still worth all the pro surfers in the world combined.