"Being able to chat with Kelly in the lineup, even share waves... unbelievable. I can't believe it."
"There's a blurry line there that doesn't feel quite right."
VALpocalypse soon.
"It’s the craziest board I’ve ever surfed — definitely one I’ll never forget."
"What people don't understand is surfing is an extreme sport. That means you can die."
r/AmItheAsshole?
"I was just waiting for it the third time to hit. I thought this third time is going to get me.”
Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.
"The only way to get good at surfing is to live on the beach and start when you're 12 or younger."
"Threatening death with a knife to those that are not as good as you is not cool."
A good moviemaker, Rory Pringle, at his best, and a wonderful surfer, Mason HO, at better than his best, which is considerable.
"Elite level surfers only."
