"Curren was the last surviving member of the four men who, in the 1950s, more or less invented big-wave surfing."
"A twitching convulsion of vicious drivel passing itself off as journalism."
"Real courage is when you know you're licked before you begin, but you begin anyway and see it through no matter what.”
Where has the love gone?
"Forecast for Pipe looks shit. Good luck everyone, get ready for a bloodbath."
“I almost broke his board to be honest, I got so furious.”
Country über alles.
"The idea is to help surfers better plan and focus on each wave, especially in difficult surfing conditions."
"I woke up with so much fear this morning."
"The surfer is mostly peaceful and loving and kind, but is more than willing to throw down when needed to protect their friends or their lineup."
Gasp.
Two sports. One need for speed.
