In its treatment of the emotional and physical extremes of big-wave surfing and the reality of death this movie transcends its subject matter.
Also juicy surf secrets!
"More men die of jealousy than cancer."
"We have lost a Hawaiian island icon."
Jordy Smith makes final cameo, Gabriel Medina sad, John John's yanked knee finishes his Brazil campaign…
A glorious finish!
Cultural appropriation at its most bald-faced!
And the power shifts from the anglocentric world to the Latin…
Filipe Toledo escorted to contest by military police!
Every heat is gold for Kelly now but makes an existential decision at the end of the year harder…
What is your "under wetsuit" secret?
Big, fun messiness! Barton Lynch can't stifle his laughs!