“People can avoid most injuries by taking a moment to think – have a ‘hmmm.’”
Under the Wave at Waimea.
Lightning Strikes 4x.
And, oh yeah, No J-Bay, back to Barra in Mexico.
“It was almost mystical, I had a feeling of nothing-can-happen-to-me, nothing-can-harm-me, nothing-can-touch-me.”
Come into the clubroom, shuck your inhibitions.
And Carissa Moore, narrowing the gap…
"Join the marines!"
Not a bikini or boardshort in sight. No sunbathers or flip flops. Just a faded bottle of Irn Bru bobbing along in the bollock haemorrhaging North Sea chill.