The best three brothers that anyone could ever
have.
There is something magical in California’s sunlight, oh
yeah. The way it is gold and the way it filters down to
earth, through leaf and smog, so warm and breezy. The way life
looks through it.
Blonde girls spread out on sandy towelettes just taking it all
in. Brunette girls walking down hot sidewalks in the shortest of
shorts just sipping ice cold Coca-Colas. Sippin’. Time lasts
forever in California’s sunlight. No one ever gets old and nothing
ever changes, no not ever, and a Mamas and Papas soundtrack dances
on those breezes so warm. Ahhhhh, yeah.
So close them tired eyes of yours, child. Close them eyes and
open that mind. Picture palm trees and sand and driving with the
top down. Driving past the Chateau Marmont and up to Hollywood
Boulevard and you go right ahead and call in Hollyweird. You get
right on in there, dig?
Breathe deep that Golden State, that Hollyweird. Smell the
sweet. (and we all know what that “sweet” is, yeah?. Ahhhhh yeah.
It Mary Jane. It that Indian tobacco. Squares call it marijuana but
we ain’t square so we call it weed). Stay awhile. Ain’t no hurry
‘cause ain’t no one hurrying. Just keep them eyes closed and keep
breathing and just roll. Head back on the greenest grass. (We call
it grass too.) Let it be, babe. What is and whatever may be and
maybe ain’t no more Mamas and Papas soundtrack. Maybe now it’s that
ol’ Jefferson Airplane and maybe now we slippin’ on down the rabbit
hole.
Woah! No fear. It’s all happening now. Ride it out.
Kaleidoscope, brother!
Who is that man with crazy in his eye and a swastika on his
forehead sitting up under that Eucalyptus tree? What’s he saying
about the system? Let’s listen.
“You made your children what they are,” he’s saying. “These
children that come at you with knives, they are your children. You
taught them. I didn’t teach them. I just tried to help them stand
up. You can project it back at me, but I am only what lives inside
each and every one of you.”
Whoa!
He sure don’t live inside of me! His hair is a wild rat’s nest!
Let’s beat it! Let’s find another corner of this totally golden
state. Let’s go down to the beach.
And that’s better. We needed some salty spray. We needed some
bouncy bikini. We needed some all bared to the world skin.
Wait. Who are those boys with each the same straw-coloured hair
and each the same white-as-light teeth sitting on that beach
blanket cross-legged and tan? They look like Mormon angel
paintings. They look like they live in heaven and they’re talking
about something. They’re moving their hands and really digging on
something, man. Getting to the meat. What is it? Let’s get close.
Let’s get right on in there. What is it? Ahhhh they talking about
the surf. Waves, friend. Not metaphysical ones either. Real liquid
waves. Waves that break in the ocean from storms a million miles
away and waves that they ride. The surf.
The tallest of them is smiling as he speaks. They call him Dane
and his hair. Wow! Like, Wow! His hair looks like the fruit sitting
under the Eucalyptus tree with the crazy in his eye except it is
the colour of straw, like the rest of them, and it is chopped at
the fringe. His jaw is strong. All their jaws are strong but his is
the strongest. And he speaks.
“Hoooo, it is a blast. Surfing is a blast and I could do it all
the time. I do do it all the time.”
And, it becomes clear that all three boys not only have the same
straw-coloured hair and the same white teeth but they have the same
mother and the same father and “brother” is not being used
metaphorically either. Real waves and real brothers. And,
furthermore, the one they call Dane has the same genetic code as
the one they call Pat. They are twins. Twins, man. Woah!
And Dane continues his thought. “I love travelling with my
brothers because no matter what the situation is, we turn it into
something fun. And it’s cool to share those experiences with people
you’re stoked to be with. We aren’t travleling as much together now
but they are always in my heart. Right down in there. In the middle
of it.”
And, he looks at both of them sitting on that beach blanket and
smiling broad. Then he looks at me. Like, right through me. “But,
I’m not the one you should be writing about right now. You should
be writing about Pat. You must write a story about Pat but call him
the Banana King and don’t pull any tricks on the young maestro and
write something else. The Banana King is your meat. There sits the
Banana King.” He points a long finger right at Pat who has the same
bones as Dane, the same eyes, but not the same hair. His hair is
cut short. Almost similar to the way squares wear it. Twins,
man.
And, I tell him I don’t really give a damn which of them is on
tour. I’m not about all the rules and regulations and hierarchy but
Dane ain’t having it. He ain’t having none of it. “Until you learn
to realise the importance of the Banana King you will know
absolutely nothing about the human interest things of the world” he
tells me.
So, now, I am right in the middle of it. Right down in there. No
longer an observer of this freaky beach scene but, instead deep
down that rabbit’s hole. Engaging. And I ask Pat, the Banana King,
what it is like on tour and he tells me, “Ahhhh bro, it’s fun. It’s
a blast. Just cruising, you know? There are so many good guys on
tour, so many friends, and my brothers don’t do it so we don’t
travel together as much and all that but it is real fun. I’m all
requalified up so I’ll be doing it next year too and Tanner is
charging so he’ll be here soon, too.”
Positive thinking. Idealising. Manifesting the good.
But, he is alone right now. Alone on tour. So I ask him about
the latest tour event at Teahupoo.
“That wave seems unearthly. We are accustomed to looking upon
the shackled form of a conquered monster, but there in Tahiti, at
Teahupoo, there you could look at a thing monstrous and free. It is
unearthly and the men who paddled out, all the men who paddled out
including my brothers, seemed inhuman. But, no they were not
inhuman. They would drop down and pull into huge barrels and howl
and leap and spin and get totally shacked and make horrid faces,
but what thrilled me was jut the thought of their humanity. The
thought of our kinship with this wild and passionate uproar.”
His brothers are all grooving on this beat. Getting in to this
rhythm. And, he keeps riffing.
“Teahupoo is my favorite wave in the world. It is so sick.
During the big tow day I sat in the channel on my board and took it
all in. I was thinking about giving it a go but just sitting there
and watching it was amazing. And, of course, it fired for the
contest. So sick.”
Sick. And what a heavy thought. Kinship with the uproar and
riding a free monster. Kinship with the other two sitting right
next to him. Whoa.
And I ask him who he likes on tour. Specifically, what he thinks
about Matt Wilkinson because Matt Wilkinson was totally inhuman at
Teahupoo. And Pat, the Banana King, looks at me and his smiling
face grows serious and he says, “Wilko was doing things out there,
man. He was getting after it like no one else but he has
hydrocephalus or some manner of lymph disorder I believe. His head
fills up with liquid.” Heavy.
And, they all sit and ponder this for a moment. The youngest one
they call Tanner and he hasn’t said much of anything yet. Tanner is
a good-looking young man two-and-a-half years younger than his twin
brothers and he also has a square cut and he is also handsome. He
has just been soaking in his brothers’ words and sucking on them
like marrow. I want to know what is in his head and what it feels
like to have these two twins above him, clearing a path. Do they
make him a better person? He answers thoughtfully. “Yeah,
definitely. Dane and Pat push me in all things I do. Patrick is a
great coach because he has the knowledge of surfing the CT heats. I
am super stoked ‘cause he genuinely wants to help me get back to
the Tour, so I really cherish his advice. Dane and I always push
each other as well. He is the most positive coach, so I am really
lucky. But I would do the same for them.”
Dane nods and agrees. But, Dane isn’t interested in competing
himself right now. He is on his own trip. Getting after the big
waves. Surfing the unshackled monsters. He travels a different path
chasing the storms but he is always locked in to what his brothers
are doing.
A full-on brotherhood. A totally now collective of enlightened
youth just living in the moment and living without the jealousies
and negativity of society. Tied together with the thickest of knots
but each doing a different version of the same thing. Pat competing
full time at the highest level. Dane riding the huge. Tanner coming
up the ranks. A full-on hip crew separated most of the time, these
days, but never separate.
Pat says he thinks Dane always does the single best manoeuvre of
every contest he is in and now he is not talking about his twin
brother Dane, but rather Dane Reynolds. Every conversation about
competitive surfing these days ends up floating around Dane
Reynolds and what he is going to do and what he is doing. Pat
really grooves on Dane’s surfing, like everyone else. He says he is
psyched to watch Dane surf in any conditions and Tanner smiles.
Tanner likes watching Dane too and just likes watching surf, in
general, and psyching on surf, in general. He says that surf psych
is alive and well in San Clemente.
They all love the surf. They are always surf stoked. Surf
psyched and it makes them famous everywhere they go. The great surf
psyching Gudauskas brothers. Yeah, just dig on that for a minute.
Their last name. Just say it, man. Let it roll over your tongue.
Gu-daus-kas. Goo-dows-kiss. Good-ah-skis. I ask what it means,
Gudauskis, and Dane answers, “It is Lithuanian. Our pops is
Lithuanian and our mom is Irish so we get drunk and then we get
drunk. A Lithuanian car bomb.” Tanner adds, “When we travel in
Europe we’ll meet girls and tell them our last name and they know
our roots are Lithuanian. It’s a pretty common last name over
there…” Heavy.
I ask when they first got in the water, when they first graced
Mother Ocean with their blonde genetic similarities. They all look
at each other and remember the past. And Pat, the Banana King,
finally speaks. “I think Dane and I were surfing by, like, four but
Tanner didn’t pick it up until he was seven or something. He used
to bodyboard all the time, doing doughnuts in the beachbreak. Dane
and I were baffled by why he wanted to do that but then he picked
up surfing so it was all good.”
Did they ever fight? They all speak. “Nah. We’ve always just
been cruisy. Easy.”
The non-fighting, all-surfing Gudauskas brothers. I say they
look happy. That they look so totally happy and Tanner says, “Man,
when you lose your laugh you lose your footing.”
And with that I turn and walk away and leave them Gudauskas
brothers sitting and smiling in the sunlight and still talking
about the surf and the psych and the stoke. Good things happening
in California down by the beach.
As I’m walking away I run into an old Indian with a weathered
face and wise eyes. “You ever hear of the Gudauskas brothers?” I
ask him.
He looks at me all deep and said, “I saw those young people, the
two with short hair and that one with the long, crazy hair and the
Great Spirit told me they will have no greed. We waited a long time
to find white men without greed. But we knew there would come a
time when we could get together as brothers.”
Yeah.
Woah.
Heavy.
California magic. California gold.