How to kill a tuna!

Stand on the edge of a marina, point speargun down and…pow!

California heads are all abuzz about the coming El Niño. Lots of warm water, plenty of good surf. What’s been my daily reality for the last eight years in Hawaii is coming to Southern California.

With the warmth comes the bait, and with the bait come the predators, spelling out a chance to grab some awesome catches for the Golden State below water set.

A sick little video making the rounds these days shows yellow fin tuna that made their way into Dana Point Harbor. Weird shit happens in the ocean on the regular, but this ain’t no usual occurrence.

Sure, firing your bluewater gun out of water is pretty dumb, and I’m more or less certain that spearing fish from a dock inside the harbor is ten millions kinds of illegal, but this is still pretty damn badass.  These guys are gonna have an awesome tale to go with their sashimi, as well as whatever fines they get hammered with.


Is the biggest wave in the world Irish?

Welcome, friends, to Area 70. The pot o' gold at the end of the rainbow!

Ummmmmm I am going to go out on a  limb and say no. It is not. Area 70 looks like a fun but messy roll-in but who cares! These Irish fellows look like they are having lots of fun. They have a whole island filled with leprechauns and faeries and hearts, stars, clovers and freezing cold emptiness. What is not to love?

Which brings up the broader point. People have been saying, “The best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun…” for years. And I have always thought it utter bullshit. The best surfer in the water is the best surfer in the water and the one having the most fun is usually a surf school turkey.

But I have been wrong (probably). Surfing is anti-depressive, after all, and look at that smile hiding beneath that red beard. Al Mennie is happy in the very land that invented depression! He is the best surfer in the North Atlantic (at least)!


Down Days Morocco
Down Days are steamy, highly charged dramas. And, Morocco, yes! Points, points, points!

Down Days: The Gudauskas Bro’s in North Africa!

From the home of the Jews to a beautiful Islamic kingdom…

You can’t say California’s Gudauskas Brothers don’t get around. In their Down Days video series for Vans we’ve seen ‘em swing their exultant spirits through Puerto Rico, Iceland, Spain, Germany, Japan, Israel and, in this episode, Morocco.

“We on a mission to explore the world!”

The sing-song style of the Gudauskas Bro’s don’t always work (click here) but, in this episode (season two, ep nine), as they eat camel (but not the fabled toe!) and surf the long points around Agadir, they come across and gentle and even venerable.

“You can smell it!” screams Pat. “It smells so good!”



Sunset Surfer

5 Things You’ve Forgotten Surfing Gives You

Those dazzling back muscles, the geo-lessons, the ability to… wait!

There’s more to surfing than just flying to shore. All that paddling, all that waiting, all that travel. It enriches you in ways you’ve long forgotten.

1. That back!

Most people in the gym call them lats, traps and tri’s. We just call it paddling. Be thankful for the form surfing has given you. You don’t even feel obligated to to the Jersey Shore with your dome frozen with L.A. Looks gel and pumping that fist!

2. Reactions from civilians

Ever been at a party and listened to the part of the conversation where hobbies come into play? The bland reactions to tennis and skiing are exasperated. Like Hamlet did when he showed his uncle “The Mousetrap,” watch the eyebrows raise and the heads veer slightly to the right as they ask you for details of  your biggest waves and how you braved the locals in El Salvador with a cervesa in one hand and a machete in the other.

3. Geo-political knowledge

Your geography teacher never thought you would amount to this and you may not realize it while you’re mesmerized by a world map looking for surf-able coastlines. However, as you memorize main and back roads in back countries, you’re filling your brain with culture and knowledge. All of a sudden, you meet someone from South Africa and they can’t believe you’re an American who knows the difference between the N1 and Naz.

4. Patience

Waiting for the waves is like someone in cell block C waiting for the Parole Board to stamp their papers. Patience. Patience. Patience. This comes into life waaaaayyyyy more than you think and realize when checking Surfline.

5. Appreciation

Ernest Hemingway would have lavish meals with all of his friends at round tables and they would sit at the table for hours, eating slowly and drinking Sangria. He even wrote a book called A Moveable Feast. Which has nothing to do about eating. But it does teach us to respect, love and to savor the things that are fleeting and fickle in our lives.

Like when wind, water and time allow us to have that perfect day of surf.

Meet: Your new So-Cal neighbors!

They come close enough to nibble your waist!

If you live in Southern California you know that surfing here is as easy as pie. The water is relatively warm, the crowds easy to escape (with a touch of ingenuity) and the sharks nonexistent. They lurk in Northern California’s chilly water, no? And Australia and now North Carolina too, yes?

In the old world, maybe, but we live in a brave new one that is rapidly falling apart and sharks are everywhere! Lifeguards at Surfside Beach (near Huntington) have taken to flying drones and within minutes they can find 10 to 12 Great Whites poking around near shore even coming into waist-deep water.

“It works great…” Chief Joe Bailey told CBS news about spotting sharks without having to go into the water. “If we get bigger sharks or we get sharks that are aggressive, we’re actually going to close the water. But right now, we have sharks that are 5- to 6-feet long, non-aggressive, acting like normal sharks, feeding on bottom fish, doing exactly what we would expect them to do.”

But some surfers do not take comfort. “I was planning on going surfing tomorrow and definitely not now…” a woman told the station. Another said, “Sharks are kind of like my biggest fear so that’s like very daunting for me.”

See? The crowds are easy to escape (with a touch of ingenuity)!

Watch your friends frolic here!