Tom Curren is a progressive.
I’d heard rumors of Tom Curren surfing fully clothed in Mexico, standing up on a boogie board, generally getting weird. It sounded glorious—the star most any style-minded surfer steers by, soggy in plainclothes, a platypus bill, getting slotted in some right hand Mexican sand bank barrels on a boogie board!
Curren’s always been a fairly aimless experimenter. Remember that section of 5’5” 19 1/4” where he and Greenough shape that odd hatchet-finned thruster? I used to love that part—Curren rocking an awful Mohawk, pushing that duck-billed shortboard through sloppy Aussie windswell, making it look so fucking easy.
Well, Curren got stuck on a boat in the Maldives recently, on board the decadent Guruhali, where LUEX charters cornered him and got him to open up on what’s been tickling his feathers as of late:
On where his head’s at: Well right now I’m really excited about the whole finless movement. It’s really exciting! I think there’s a lot going on there, and I think there’s going to be a lot of progression in the board designs. A lot of people are really enjoying riding finless boards, you know, it’s not the same: they won’t out-perform regular boards, I guess, for now, but maybe some day it’ll be a kinda shift in board design.
On boredom: I think the key there for me is that either you try a different board or something that you’re not usually used to, or body surfing or something, and just to be in the water is enough. It doesn’t have to be… The surf doesn’t have to be incredible to enjoy it.
On boogie boards: “The boogie board is, I think, one of the greatest inventions ever… its just an amazing piece of equipment: so small, so simple right, and it has the flex, and you know it just works amazing and people are doing great things with the boogie board.”
On Skimboards: I was surfing with Brad Domke in Mexico, and just kinda watching what he’s doing, trying to figure out how he does it, because he’s really surfing the wave with the board like a surfboard. The key is the edge is really hard, so it stays in the wave face and you don’t need fins as much with that really hard edge; it holds in so the fun thing about it is you can go really fast, but the hard part is that, y’know its obviously very hard to paddle. I use a soft board to catch the waves and stuff, but it’s a lot of fun. It’s hard too, so I like the challenge I guess.
On boat trips: Where I live is actually really good for boat trips, you know. Santa Barbara is kinda ideal to have a boat, ‘cos especially in the summer there’s a lot of waves on the islands, but the islands are in front of the town and so I haven’t had a chance to do much of going out on a boat trip at home.
On family life: Had a really good trip to the Ivory Coast with my daughter – one of the best trips I’ve been on. We had a great time. Surfing and travelling is obviously really extra special when you can do it with your family…. we all love the same thing: we all love music and surfing.
Our pals over at The Surfer’s Village have the full interview, here.
I went down to mainland Mexico a couple months back and spent a few days down there filming with my brother, Mike. We saw some swell on the forecast, called up Las Palmeras and jumped on a plane.
We got some super fun waves and even saw Tom Curren down there covered head to toe in clothes (to avoid getting burnt) riding a boogie board. He was ripping to say the least…
Save the Whales!
Cinematography: Mike Pagan (@mike_pagan)
Creative Influence: Kevin Jansen (@robotsfrom)
Edit: Matt Pagan