Surfer hit by a shark at Leftovers. Above the knee
amputation. Critical condition, obvs…
The quarter-mile stretch between Leftovers and
Marijuanas ain’t what you go to the North Shore for.
Fun, sure, but, mostly, you’re there because you don’t wanna
deal with the mind-fuck of the Rocky Point to Off the
Wall crowd.
I’ve always found the area a little creepy, sharky as hell,
big Tigers chasing big turtles. Four attacks in the last 10 years
doesn’t really aid my peace of mind.
A few hours ago, 25-year-old surfer Colin Cook was hit by a
shark, I’d guess a Tiger cause what else is there, at Leftovers,
and was rushed by paramedics to hospital where he remains in a
critical condition.
According to Hawaii News Now,
“First responders said the attack happened about 10:30
a.m. in waters off Leftovers Beach Park, at 61-385
Kamehameha Highway.
“One witness told Hawaii News Now that the man was a surfer, and
he was apparently sitting on his surfboard with his legs dangling
in the water when he was attacked. The witness said bystanders used
a surfboard leash as a tourniquet to control the bleeding. The
victim appeared to have lost his leg to above the knee, the
witnesses said.
“The man also apparently suffered injuries to his hand after
attempting to swat the shark away.
“Officials are patrolling North Shore beaches near the scene of
the attack, and advising people to stay out of the water.
“From January to September, there were four shark attacks in
Hawaii: two on Maui and two on the Big Island.
“”In the most recent incident, a 27-year-old Kohala man suffered
severe leg injuries when a 13-foot tiger shark bit him.
“The other incidents were:
On April 29, a 65-year-old woman was killed
while snorkeling off Maui’s Ahihi Bay. The woman was in 20- to
35-foot-deep waters, and was about 200 yards offshore.
On March 18, a 60-year-old man suffered cuts to his forearm,
left arm and thigh while standing in 4-foot-deep water off Hapuna
Beach on the Big Island. Authorities said the man was bit by a 8-
to 10-foot-long tiger shark.
On Jan. 27, a 20-year-old Maui man was bit by a shark he
had caught while fishing in Lahaina.
Meanwhile, three LA beaches have been closed after a shark
charged a surfer.
If Kelly misses Portugal the WSL must slug him with
a $38k fine. But what if mysterious injury strikes?
It could be my imagination, but it seems like Mr
Slater, our GOAT, king of the savvy media presence,
doesn’t really give much of a shit anymore. He spent a fair portion
of his post round two heat interview complaining about the WSL’s
decision to run the event a few hundred yards down the beach from
where it was actually firing, kind of an atypical move from a guy
who usually keeps his comments nice and politic.
The talking heads quickly dissembled, “you’ve gotta be on it
before it gets good,” or something along those lines. But I think
it’s pretty obvious why the WSL would stick with a bad decision.
Moving all that gear a few hundred yards up the beach at the last
minute would be quite the logistical undertaking. Better to
sacrifice quality in favor of convenience, right?
Peter Mel, looming over the Syrian with blue-green eyes, turned
the topic to Slater’s previous comments regarding blowing off the
Euro leg of this year’s tour.
“I think it would be wrong of me not to show up if I have a
mathematical chance at the title. That was really what it boiled
down to.”
Sure, a mathematical chance, albeit one that depends heavily on
everything going wrong for everyone else, something Slater openly
acknowledged.
But there’s another factor, unspoken but sure to have had an
effect on the King’s decision making. An increase in fines for
no-showing events, enacted in 2011 after Dane, Kelly, and Bobby
Martinez blew off a lackluster J-Bay comp (click here) would have left Kelly staring down
the barrel of $38,000 in fines if he skipped both venues.
Per the WSL rulebook: Failure to attend the CT Events entered
with warning but no doctor’s certificate (men and women
seeds only):
First violation:
M – $12,500; W- $5,000
Second violation:
M – $25,000; W – $10,000
Third violation:
Automatic suspension for 3
Events or remainder of the
tour year if less and no entry
into QS 10000 Events during
this time
Unless Kelly has a crazy secret gambling addiction, I can only
assume it’s been a very long time since he’s had to worry about
money. Even so, 38K ain’t nothing to sneeze at. You could use that
money to buy a mid range sedan, a couple city blocks of derelict
apartment buildings in Detroit, or an entire shipping container of
refugee orphans.
But Kelly’s a smart guy, and he started laying down a plausible
story, in case the next round doesn’t go so well and he’s over
hanging around for Portugal.
Intercostal muscle injuries do hurt, something I can vouch for
as I once strained mine coughing out an enormous bong hit. Nagging
pain for weeks, though nothing a motivated Slater couldn’t, and
obviously has, tough his way through. Still, it lays ground
for the delicious doctor’s certificate that would absolve him of
any rule breaking.
“I got hurt in my first surf, I got knocked out. Lucky I didn’t
drown. Sorry mom! And then my surf yesterday, after my heat I was
really frustrated so I just stayed in the water and surfed for a
while, and I got this one big bomb and I ate it and I think I tore
my intercostals between my ribs, here. So I actually woke thinking
I might not surf today because I didn’t think I could paddle. But I
iced it all night and it seems like it doesn’t hurt as bad.”
Intercostal muscle injuries do hurt, something I can vouch for
as I once strained mine coughing out an enormous bong hit. Nagging
pain for weeks, though nothing a motivated Slater couldn’t, and
obviously has, tough his way through.
Still, it lays ground for the delicious doctor’s certificate
that would absolve him of any rule breaking.
An interesting note regarding the doctor’s certificate, the WSL
Rulebook doesn’t require competitors to employ a WSL sanctioned
doc, interesting info should anyone decide to skip events in the
future. There’s no shortage of half-assed doctors willing to
diagnose anyone with anything. “Oh yeah, here’s my note from Dr
Barnabas McGee of the Lesser Antilles Upstairs Medical College. He
couldn’t find any paper so he wrote it on the bottom of this old
shoe. But he’s totally a real doctor, dude had a stethoscope and
put his finger in my butt and everything!”
I reached out to Dave Prodan, VP of communications for the WSL,
and asked if the WSL would fine Slater, should he miss
Portugal.
O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay! I got a terse and
unilluminating response!
“If conditions surrounding the withdrawal of any athlete warrant
it, then actions outlined in the WSL Rulebook are executed,” wrote
Prodan.
"All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people
of good conscience to remain silent."
Late last night your belovedBeachGrit
received an email from the World Surf League, in both
Cardiff-by-the-Sea and Bondi bureaus, demanding that cute little
videos of Mick Fanning’s surgeon-like attack (a compendium of his
9s!) and the wonderful skills of jetski pilots (cowboys!) be taken
down.
And such a shame! Because Mick Fanning’s nines are like a
beautiful lullaby if you are having trouble falling asleep. One
turn, two turns, three turns snore! But mostly because surfing
should not be treated the same as American football. Have you ever
been on a film shoot where someone in the field of vision has a New
York Giants baseball hat or a Green Bay Packers hoodie? That shit
is like crazy radioactive! Gaffers, gofers and line producers will
run, as fast as they can, to the fan and ask, then beg, if they
could take off the merchandise. If they won’t, and must be in the
shot, then all NFL and team logos must be covered with tape or,
somehow, shot around. The NFL, you see, is so sue happy and power
hungry that they pounce on any infraction of copyright, however
tiny or insignificant.
Surfing ain’t the National Football League! It just ain’t and to
act like it is a stone-faced multibillion dollar tyranny guts
the love. Give us free, World Surf League! Unshackle our hands
and we can all soar on wings of John John’s fails! (I think we had
to take that down too).
John John Florence and Jadson Andre mashed in the
soup by a buckaroo pilot!
Wow! What a day of professional surf action.
Has beachbreak ever looked so fun? How do you think you would have
fared in those conditions and be honest. Would you have scored a
tube that could have resembled a respectable score or would you
have been scratching around, tilting at imaginary peaks on the
horizon?
I certainly would have been the later. Either that or smashing
vodka/ginger beers in the competitors’ area before hopping on a ski
and giving professional surfers rides back into the lineup. Did you
see John John tossed from the ski into a boil of whitewash? The
driver scrambling, madly, back into the saddle after losing the
grip and splashing in the soup? What possessed John John to slide
back onto the sled after the mishap? Because he cray that’s
why!
And remember Joel in Rio? That backflip? This might be the
greatest time ever in ski driver mismanagement/alcoholism. Bravo
WSL! Entertainment par excellence! Will you accept my application?
I drink usually starting at 3:00pm but could start earlier if needs
be.
The miraculous ripe fruit of John John, Dane, Mick
and Julian Wilson…
Surfers don’t ask much of their heroes. We
merely ask that they be capable in good waves, unfettered in the
air and unscathed of pox.
On the opening day of the Quiksilver Pro, France, held a couple
of clicks out of town at the nudist beach Les Cul Nuls, we were
served the plump but loose Dane Reynolds, a brutal and arrogant
Julian Wilson, the easy brilliance of John John Florence and the
world title-bound Mick Fanning.
First, let’s examine Dane Reynolds. Superficially lighthearted
but no one does post-tube turns like this, smooth, precise and
slightly mocking, without a deep competitiveness.
Julian Wilson stepped back into the ropes for the world title
with a brutal, easy win.
John John? You could almost hear his exquisitely bored voice:
“That was far too easy.”
And jazz master Mick Fanning? His heat was an exhibition of his
own skill.
QUIKSILVER PRO FRANCE ROUND 1 RESULTS:
Heat 1: Brett Simpson (USA) 14.84, Kelly Slater (USA) 14.84, Jadson
Andre (BRA) 10.90
Heat 2: Julian Wilson (AUS) 18.80, Miguel Pupo (BRA) 10.83, Aritz
Aranburu (ESP) 5.66
Heat 3: Dane Reynolds (USA) 17.00, Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 15.90,
Owen Wright (AUS) 8.94
Heat 4: Tomas Hermes (BRA) 11.57, Adam Melling (AUS) 10.97, Filipe
Toledo (BRA) 9.93
Heat 5: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 16.00, Caio Ibelli (BRA) 6.37, Keanu
Asing (HAW) 4.97
Heat 6: Mick Fanning (AUS) 16.73, Michel Bourez (PYF) 10.73, Maxime
Huscenot (FRA) 8.87
Heat 7: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 14.33, Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 6.76,
Dusty Payne (HAW) 4.33
Heat 8: John John Florence (HAW) 18.60, Alejo Muniz (BRA), 10.93,
Jeremy Flores (FRA) 2.83
Heat 9: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 18.40, Italo Ferreira (BRA) 14.84,
Ricardo Christie (NZL) 9.50
Heat 10: Bede Durbidge (AUS) 13.70, Glenn Hall (IRL) 6.43, Nat
Young (USA) 4.67
Heat 11: Kolohe Andino (USA) 14.40, Kai Otton (AUS) 11.10, Josh
Kerr (AUS) 9.90
Heat 12: C.J. Hobgood (USA) 15.43, Wiggolly Dantas (BRA) 10.73,
Joel Parkinson (AUS) 10.50
UPCOMING QUIKSILVER PRO FRANCE ROUND 2
MATCH-UPS:
Heat 1: Filipe Toledo (BRA) vs. Maxime Huscenot (FRA)
Heat 2: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. Caio Ibelli (BRA)
Heat 3: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. Aritz Aranburu (ESP)
Heat 4: Jeremy Flores (FRA) vs. Dusty Payne (HAW)
Heat 5: Italo Ferreira (BRA) vs. Alejo Muniz (BRA)
Heat 6: Nat Young (USA) vs. Ricardo Christie (NZL)
Heat 7: Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Glenn Hall (IRL)
Heat 8: Wiggolly Dantas (BRA) vs. Michel Bourez (PYF)
Heat 9: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. Keanu Asing (HAW)
Heat 10: Kai Otton (AUS) vs. Adam Melling (AUS)
Heat 11: Matt Wilkinson (AUS) vs. Sebastian Zietz (HAW)
Heat 12: Jadson Andre (BRA) vs. Miguel Pupo (BRA)