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Bold: The greatest surf town on earth?

Tijuana, Mexico beacons! Will you heed her call?

I am sitting, right now, in a very soft recliner. The marble floor, under my feet, has just been mopped by a woman wearing a navy blue apron and the exotic fish, swimming in a giant wall tank, seem vaguely pleased.

I am in Tijuana. And I will tell you that every time I come south of the border, to TJ, I am thrilled beyond. Many surfers, of course, quickly skirt the city on their way to Baja surf but I don’t understand why they don’t stay awhile. There’s surf here, too, right under a giant bull ring! But there is so much more! Tijuana, you see, feels like a film set. Oh, you’ve seen the movies, no? Pictures detailing the wild times of Mexico’s cartels. Sicario, Once upon a time in Mexico, Meet the Millers, etc. Shootouts in the street, Federales speeding around in dark pick-up trucks, fun.

The Tijuana Cartel ain’t what it once was, having been smashed to bits by the more robust Sinaloa gang, but I tell you this…you can feel the energy on these dusty streets. It absolutely pulses! Not that a shootout is really going to happen, but it all just feels untethered. That rules don’t apply in the same Puritanical way that they do just minutes north.

And surf? But of course! The same Pacific that caresses San Diego rubs old TJ with plenty of legitimately decent waves under 40 kilometers south. A veritable buffet! I think this is one of the greatest surf towns on earth and if you live near, do yourself a favor and cross the border today. You can, you know, it is just that easy.

Once here, try dining on hotdogs at El Sotano Suizo, or fancy steak at Mision 19. Or any street taco. Dance in the sun! Go for a surf and wash the hepatitis away with the frostiest margarita!

I love it so much here I might just not go home. Join me for brunch tomorrow!

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12 Comments
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Trogan Fan

is beaconing similar to beckoning?

Chas Smith

It is the same thing depending on how many margaritas have proceeded its being typed.

Trogan Fan

Isn’t beacons also where you can find Chris Cote’?

Chas Smith

exactly.

Mariano Landa

Chas: can you bring an article to the Grit about parenting a daughter? First gromette for me and the lady arrives by May, problem is I had assumed I was so virile it’d automatically be a boy, so now I’m in a conundrum. Chas, please help! What does a sophisticated, world-traveled, average-surfing, well-dressed man do? And whatever you do is fine, too.

Chas Smith

Oh you are so on! I have theories!

Mariano Landa

Ah, zee old stomping grounds. You should go check out my fam’s truckyard past the airport, holler at the nephews for me, check out the fun stuff that happens east of La Libertad and the real-ass food. Not a drop of sarcasm here.

Also, Baja surf-trip hack for the uninitiated: cross back via Otay, the wait is a fraction of the S’Idro crossing at all hours of the day. Or get serious and get your Sentri on.

PS: Bummer ’bout all them Culichis and Sinaloa ammunition fodder ruining the T-to-the-J and the border zone more generally. At least they’re cheap employees, a fair return for their moral misgivings and ‘side jobs’ (ever have a trailer detained because a chofer had a side ‘import’ business? Fun for all!).

bitter guy

not all hours of the day, i’ve found Otay closed for business, its not pretty

Mariano Landa

Shit happens. S’Idro closes five times as many lanes as Otay on the daily.

Ghostface Braddah

Dusk in TJ is a cinematographers dream, like a poor mans Rome.

Mapski

Parar en la farmacia.

The MHL Buoy

What do they have?


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