Albee: “Scariest paddle of my life!”
The wave of your dreams? No!
It pains me to think how many perfect setups exist around the world, only to be plagued by incessantly poor winds or extremely rare swell windows. Surfing‘s Jimmy Wilson sought one out this summer during Hurricane Matthew, and I recall Taj Burrow found another in West Oz a few years back.
Well, this thing that Albee Layer and Billy Kemper just tried to surf is the same… but different.
Maui is known for it’s wild wind and massive swells, but this slab is in another stratosphere. With just the right swell, wind, and tide conditions, it became “surfable”.
“Scariest paddle of my life,” says Albee. “Jaws included.”
The wave looks more Australian than Hawaiian. Akin to something Mark Matthews or Russell Bierke or Kerby Brown would tow into. That Albee, Billy, and friend somewhat successfully paddled into this mutant is beyond logic. Like nominating a climate change denier to lead the EPA. Choosing Filipe for your Teahupo’o Fantasy team.
In short, I have no problem knowing that waves like this are breaking, or not, without me. For the sake of Albee and Billy’s health, I hope it never breaks it again. Albee’s wave was fucked up though.