A board review that hits Rousseau, Voltaire, Dostoevky and gorgeous women who used to be men!
Nothing but nothing marks a gal as reactionary, out of date and surplus to requirements as resistance to our modern gender fluid world. At least in the west. In the east it is still considered a noble virtue.
So, what to do, if you’re a hetero-normative piece of shit like me and feel a desire to “experiment”, to expand your horizons in a sublimated completely psycho-sexual way?
I have a solution and it’s called an asymmetrical surfboard.
This one I have in my possession is Asian made, designed by a delightfully fruity Japanese man named Cuts under the Insane label, hereafter known as the Insano. It came from the Surfboard Agency in Byron Bay, because made for a goofy, and I, goofy. They needed a goofy to ride and report.
Let us first acknowledge and bow deeply to the Asian elephant in the room. I do not own any Asian-made surfboards, apart from the Insano. Any prick with five minutes to spare will find acres of ranting from L. Tom on the issue and I now have to admit my position has become more nuanced.
No money exchanged.
The Insano is EPS core, biaxial epoxy lam, not my usual choice of materials for reasons to be discussed. It’s a wide-outline, flat fish with neutral rails and a shorter rail line on the toe-side edge and two channels running through the bottom from the fins.
Let us first acknowledge and bow deeply to the Asian elephant in the room. I do not own any Asian-made surfboards, apart from the Insano. Any prick with five minutes to spare will find acres of ranting from L. Tom on the issue and I now have to admit my position has become more nuanced. I have seen many local manufacturers I respect experiment in asian board building. I am happy to see Cuts get a cut of the action, and others, growing older, like Dick Van Straalen find a passive income in retirement from licensing his designs.
Yet I can’t quite get behind the D. Rielly position that a brother is a brother is a brother. That’s fine sentiment but not how most people operate, most of the time. According to Indian essayist Pankaj Mishra, author of Age of Anger, much of the humiliation and anger felt by peeps across the world (especially sanders/glassers/shapers) can be sheeted to a sense that their lives are being radically disrupted by cosmopolitan, transnational elites.
People feel solidarity with the local community, not the globalised elite or even the asian workers making the sleds, computers, clothes etc etc.
Kenchy (glasser/sander), Brown-eye (glasser), Gypo (shaper/sander), Jules (sander) mean more to me than the brothers in Thailand. Human nature. But the guys who own Surf Agency are local surfers, they got families to feed, bills to pay, and as Snoop Dog says in Coach Snoop “Man do what he gotta do to take care of his motherfucking family”.
My moral certainty is shattered ladies and gentlemen of the jury, stuck between Voltaire’s cosmopolitanism and Rousseau’s communitarianism.
It took a while for the Insano to get out the back of the Camry. For shame. And weirdness. I eventually got it finned up with an MR twin on one side from Alkali fins Ballina and a quad set on the other, also hand foiled fibreglass made in Ballina. I couldn’t get a take on what an asymmetrical set-up was supposed to accomplish and so the board languished.
What happened next was a surprise. I’m a terrible surf snob. I cross the street to avoid shit surf and I know shit surf. Got my chops growing up on Bribie Island, a South Pacific backwater that makes Florida look like South Sumatra. In my world view a working gal with a family to raise monkey humping a high volume groveller in slop counts as a crime against humanity. To make a simple equation: Riding shit surf = taking the piss.
I ain’t no leave passer or board hider but after a couple weeks on the Insano Daddio Longtom started getting creative with little “chores” that had to be done in Ballina instead of making an honest living. Tiny little monsters stirred in his loins at the sight of weak 2footers. After work surfs in C and D grade summer Point surf started stretching into dusk and Pappy’s home life started to suffer.
The grass grew high around the house, so high we lost our only son in it. Pappys Jade stalk and Mammy’s sacred valley grew tangled and overgrown with neglect. Pappy was spending too much time with an asian asymmetrical and not enough on Mammy’s ski jump boobies and derriere you can crack a flea on.
The Insano was champagne and Ritalin*. Loose, unpredictable, slippery, light headed, unreliable, hyper-reactive. Dangerous fun. Like teenage sex. Experimentation for the gal with a family to go home to.
Why so? Because the experience was intoxicating. With a Ghost and the Insano in the Camry I had the high and the low end on lockdown. The Ghost was a buzz from a couple of Sierra Nevadas, maybe a brace of Bush Chooks necked post-surf in the desert lefts. The Insano was champagne and Ritalin*. Loose, unpredictable, slippery, light headed, unreliable, hyper-reactive. Dangerous fun. Like teenage sex. Experimentation for the gal with a family to go home to. Materials that once felt like a liability in good surf now felt like a revelation.
There is benefit to a certain species of human being in pursuing an asymmetric design path. As Dostoevky’s Underground Man in Notes from the Underground was paralysed by ennui and inactivity I see a Hypothetical Man of Means suffering under the weight of mortgage stress, marital and familial responsibility and boredom. And when I say Man I mean Woman and Man and every sexual flavour in between. Life grinds one down. Existence is an emptiness we must populate with meaning as best we can and if riding an asymmetric Asian-made fish in shit surf helps you get through the night then I say more power to your arm babe.
Existence is an emptiness we must populate with meaning as best we can and if riding an asymmetric Asian-made fish in shit surf helps you get through the night then I say more power to your arm babe.
Perfect waves are hard to come by and even harder to appreciate on their own terms. The wave-tub experiences of BeachGrit principals and surf hacks at Lemoore have taught us that. So I say, unless your name is Ryan Burch or Bryce Young, experimenting with asymmetricals in good waves is too risky. Choose a more reliable dance partner.
But if one turn and a close-out reo is your daily bread and you’re bored with white bread missionary attempts to couple with it, I implore you to loosen up the program. Does our Man of Means need an asymmetric fish? Only in the way a fish needs a bicycle, but what’s need got do with surfing? If this one wasn’t a goofy set-up I would jump the morning Jetstar to Sydney and personally hand this over to D. Rielly in exchange for a smashed avo and ristretto at the Trio Cafe.
The other great unexploited ecological niche for a design such as the Insano is as a low end travel board. We approach our OS surf trips with such high expectations – quivering up with sleek designs to ride dream waves – but the truth is underpowered reef breaks and thin-lipped tradewind swells are just as likely. Nothing is more dispiriting to the soul of our Hypothetical Man of Means than paying top dollar to jockey for position at an underpowered Maldivian reef with a posse of Israelis fresh out of the military. That’s exactly the time when you need fruitiness and unreliable handling in a surfboard. Sri Lanka, Maldives, PNG, Costa Rica, Europe, maybe even the motherfucking Mentawais if the forecast is flaccid. All could be rescued from being BS snorkelling trips by a gender fluid little small wave toy.
The Underground Man’s story went tits up, mired in shame, humiliation and self disgust: a precursor to the fate of the internet commenter.
Our story has a more anti-depressive ending.
With TC Gita approaching L.Tom put the Asian cue in the rack ,stopped at the servo and got flowers, cut the grass and once more Pappy’s jade stalk and Mammy’s sacred valley united and the ghetto cow paddocks of Lennox Head reverberated with moans of pleasure all fucking night long.**
To quote the Underground Man, “it seems that we may stop here”.
*Ritalin is Methylphenidate, an amphetamine analogue prescribed to kids with ADHD. It’s a helluva performance and cognitive enhancing stimulant and tremendous fun mixed with booze.
** PG recommended because drugs are stupid and parental sex is gross.v

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Sidebar. What does Charlie think about Longtoms fashion in the above pic? Very important.
He’d be horrified no doubt. Funny thing was, I put those grimy old chinos on and they had no zipper…..I took one photo and realised my cock was hanging out.
So I had to lower the board and take another shot.
Ahahahahahaha so good.
Haa classic!
bribie island? could be worse, you could from crib island and be forever in the shadow of the bee gee’s
Snoop Dogg is just as big a corpo sellout as those fooks at SA. Since you gracefully avoided Pyzel leaving Fire Wire without any journalistic effort, why not hit up your boys at SA and James Cheal to find out the real reason why they aren’t making Chilli’s anymore. It was the only label they were doing real numbers in the biggest surfboard market in the world. Or are you too busy doing driveby’s in your Camry?
…oh tell me more, but in a discreet manner. [email protected]
For this, I just know the who & what. Sometimes I need to lean on you guys for the when, why, where, and how.
Another smile
“*tremendous fun mixed with booze” is the takeaway here basically
On the upside I scored a few days at Noosa where I’m pretty sure I managed to piss off everyone
no real achievement there. if you didn’t piss any one off it means you didn’t get any waves. get back too us when you get faded by a speedo wearing P.M.
Nice work Longtom. In reference to Gita, I myself was (coincidentally) on the sunny coast when it hit. You offered me the advice to pack for swell. I packed 2 performance boards (5’9”s, way undergunned …) which I promptly destroyed my first day there (the Sunday). My 3rd and last board was a bright purple twinny I’d never ridden before, which made the rest of the trip interesting. Not sure why I had to share this, I think I’m still dealing with PTSD after nearly drowning. Also, I read Derek’s book on Bob while away. Brilliant. However wasn’t a fan of the last chapter.
Judas!
And that ‘flat cap’ is an abomination – is it fucking baby blue!?
yep!
silk and linen from the father in law in the mother country.
Thought you’d abandoned ship?
He’s a junkie like the rest of us… I noticed an erratic, bitter and tired tone to his commentary in the weeks previous to his “departure”. You and I both know at times there is a degree of self hatred that comes with talking too much shit on the internet.
He’s either had a surf, a shag or just realised that releasing alittle stress online makes him a far better Husband.
How I receive beachgrit https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
it was the bipolar
https://uploads.disquscdn.c… Cheers to Bipolar and the foxes!
you bring out the love. i have known the passion and love of too many transsexuals to not reach around for this post. xox
oh, and flat caps are a thing of mine. but they are either from the north-east working men of they should not be worn. so, i hope your father-in-law isn’t some tory, which is likely given that cap haha
mechanic from Essex
Fantastic piece of writing. Kudos!
Wait a second. Unless that image is reversed, isn’t the shorter rail line on the heel side?
I believe that’s standard asymmetrical procedure for surfboards.
Yes, it is. Terrible error.
And that is easily the most noticeable performance attribute: how easily it rolls onto that heel side edge during a forehand top turn.
I’m confused. Is the shorter rail line not always on the heel side?
yes, my error. You want the heel side edge shorter.
What the fuck, Longtom?
Arctic camo?
I had Urban Warrior camo phase as a Crustie squatter in my early 20’s, But a grown man not from Poland??
pretty sure the Polish gent with the Renault van with 12 refugees slowly suffocating in the back while he smuggled them into Germany would be in standard camo, not arctic camo.
That is possibly the most perfect analogy you’ve ever come up with. Between the fish factory down the road and the gym further on, my life is haunted by Polish men in arctic camo!
It was that stage is PlayStation Goldeye 007 circa 1998, best game ever
That BS snorkelling trip line is yours, I think.
I’m fucking tempted. But Rielly hasn’t even offered to pay for that last one so fuck it.
You just gonna stand there like a derp or man up to the challenge?
This is your rep in the lineup at stake, who cares about chump change?
there’s principalities involved -Big Worm
Is that how WW1 started?
And I thought it was an Ash Wednesday offering…
Fuck, maybe it was. I thought about writing about the Webber Sex Board but I’ll wait till another one which is being glassed at the moment. A board so rich with conflict I can scarcely believe I’m getting it.
You want money? You got it.
I really want to see a fish riding a bicycle.
Holy shit LT.
I think you’re gonna need another Ghost from the lads.
BTW why does that board look as old as Mick’s career?
flogged it pretty hard for the last 6 months. It has no dings, just a bit of red mud on it.
It’s got that vintage yellow about it. I’m convinced BTW. I’ll be selling one of the children as soon as possible and buying a Asian Tranny Board and a Ghost. Cheers!
No, it’s a soft coral pink, came that way.
S’why I was so keen to give it to Dell.
Ha! Bad colour reproduction in the piccy then. I’ve seen it on two diff screens and it just looked ‘old’. Don’t be ashamed of pink. It was pretty hot for men in the 80’s as I’m sure you know. I still occasionally rock an OG tie-dye pink shirt from the 80’s. Maybe that’s not a good thing to admit….
Bloody lovely job LT. I can now respectfully steal from you and tell my wife in all seriousness that my overwhelming ennui is the reason I trade in boards I’ve only ridden five times in order to experience the buzz of the new.
I’m pretty sure I’m going to have writer’s block for a year after reading that. Fuck. Dude’s raising the bar too damn high.
Nothing champagne n ritalin can’t cure
That does sound kinda fun!
PHARK! surely the best writer inhabiting the ‘surf’ space (NC a close second).
Enjoyed ‘the outsider’ – loving your BG contributions. Keep em coming mate…
“Champagne Ritalin” and “dangerous fun like teenage sex” should be in a hall fame somewhere……
The movie Paterson is about Longtom, right?