Matt Warshaw: “The internet has numbed me to a point where I’d have to smash my iPhone and cut my chest to feel anything about a tube ride.”

Ten-second tubes don't mean a dang thing anymore says bespectacled, begrimed, bow-legged surf historian…

Yesterday, I had an instructive conversation with the surf historian Matt Warshaw. It is a topic he feels very strongly about – that the tube ride, thanks to POV cameras and Kelly’s pool, now has as much value as the Venezuelan Bolivar. 

“I can do my little historian’s dance about how the tube—getting inside, grabbing the view with a camera—was once the Holy Grail,” said Warshaw. “Now a 10-second tube is a throwaway score.”

BeachGrit: It’s true, the tube ride really is a fading star. The Surf Ranch Pro banged the final nail into its coffin. Here was the tube ride as test-pattern. What did you see? What did you feel? 

Warshaw: The Surf Ranch Pro came down to airs. We saw that coming way before the contest started. So it ended up like long-program figure skating, where you know that all the gliding stuff in-between moves kind of counts, but really we’re just waiting to see if she nails the quad toe-loop. Except at Surf Ranch the in-between stuff was the tube. That hurt. I think in one of our earlier chats I said something about how a 10-second tube would be a throwaway at Kelly’s wave and that’s what happened. Maybe you have to be older to feel sad about that.

Skeleton Bay delivers a man (where are the gals?) a twenty-second tube and no one gives a shit. Tell me why that has devalued the tube ride as compared to Kirra, which was once a mirror version? You blaming the dang internet?

The internet has numbed me to a point where I’d have to smash my iPhone and cut my chest to feel anything. But with Skeleton Bay I think it’s more about the POV camera. Tube media—I want to sip it, like bourbon. POV cams turned the tube into a keg-stand.

Here’s where we’re going to differ about something. POV cameras. I’m going to suggest that they’ve kept the tube perspective alive, as well as, finally, giving not-so-great surfers, and non-surfers, a show they’d never otherwise see. And in that respect, they’re given tubes a prestige that would’ve faded long ago. Remember that Anthony Walsh shot of Laird Hamilton at Teahupoo (click here)? Tell me that don’t make your (considerable) neck hair stand up on end. 

No, my neck hairs stayed flaccid. Those stuntman surf photos, taken from a place on a wave I’d never myself get to — those images don’t get up inside me. Anything wide-angle, stuntman or not, I can take or leave. Or just leave. But this Sean Davey shot of Laird, for me, never gets old.

Laird&Rsquo;S Millennium Wave As Snatched From The Beach With A Very Long Lens By The Australian Sean Davey.

POV was the Grail for the longest time, Greenough and his cameras inside the tube were the stuff of legend. That these devices are now affordable and can now be affixed to helmet, mouth, pole etc, is something to celebrate, I’d suggest. Tell me the name of the Greenough movie (Innermost Limits?) and how surfers at the time reacted to seeing a tube from the inside out? 

The first Greenough inside-looking-out piece was “Coming of the Dawn” and it was the closing segment for Innermost Limits of Pure Fun. “Echoes” came next. That was for a movie called Crystal Voyager. “Echoes” was much better, cleaner, more mesmerizing, than “Dawn.” Greenough was just way WAY ahead of his time, wrangling that view and dragging it out for the world to see. George and Pink Floyd at some point got stoned together and the band gave George a track to use for “Echoes,” and George in turn let Floyd screen the movie during their concerts. The first surfer-rock band collab!

What excites me most, still, even though I’m not much in the game anymore, are tubes that I myself want to ride. Which means wedgy little rights. Which is why the Waco tank got my neck hairs all hard and sprung up!

Let’s be frank. There’s tubes and then there’s barrels. What excites you? Ten-foot Cloudbreak? Big Pipe? Or have you lost any joy from seeing a folding lip? 

What excites me most, still, even though I’m not much in the game anymore, are tubes that I myself want to ride. Which means wedgy little rights. Which is why the Waco tank got my neck hairs all hard and sprung up!

And while we’re being frank, was there too much cosmic bullshit surrounding tubes anyway? Debate about whether you could hear anything inside, manoeuvres in the tube, time slowing down etc, it was all smoke and mirrors, yes? 

One hundred percent bullshit, all of it. But that doesn’t take anything away from how full-on addicted we all were, maybe still are, to riding inside the tube. I can’t explain it. And I’ve never heard anybody else explain it to a degree that sounds reasonable. But the final 20 or so years of my surfing life I didn’t really want to do much else except ride inside the tube. Everything else was fun, but kind of just killing time until the sandbars got good again and the wind switched offshore and swell went to four at 12.

I liked Mark Richards quote somewhere where he said he’d rather hit the lip than stall and get tubed. You remember? 

Mark Richards never lived down the Shaun Tomson episode at OTW. Of course he’d say that.

When was the last time you got tubed? Did you feel… anything? 

A year ago, at the Surf Ranch! What if I die and that’s the last one I ever get? All the shit I’ve talked about Kelly’s wave, how funny would that be?

0 0 votes
Article Rating
Subscribe
Notify of
guest
105 Comments
Newest
Oldest Most Voted
Nick Dee
Nick Dee
7 years ago

There is always a balance. The thruster made surfing too easy. Suddenly Richard Cram was a star for doing a cutback and click-clack backfoot Tom Carroll was world champ (but at least Tom eventually took it to another level, surfing big waves like 3 foot waves). Those long skinny banana boards of the Momentum Generation were awful. Its all become too easy; particularly the tube riding. The wave at 7:46 is sick. https://www.youtube.com/wat…

Moo
Moo
7 years ago

Let’s face it. Surfing has become boring. It’s like a brand extension for anything from life insurance, to ice creams and department stores. POV has become a Penn tennis ball, seen one, seen ’em all. You are right, wave pools are already sending people to sleeeepppzzzzzzz…

Jen See
Jen See
7 years ago

What I love about watching barrels is the technical take-offs — so I’m interested in stuff like big Pipe or Cloudbreak. Watching the drops on those waves, yeah, that’s fun. Point-of-view stuff is not my jam at all. Boring. Very few images or clips from that perspective show anything all that interesting. A pulled back image, beautifully lit, by someone who knows their way around a camera makes me happy every time.

There’s maybe too much shit imagery of surfing around, but the good stuff is still pretty great.

mattjohnson
mattjohnson
7 years ago
Reply to  Jen See

I don’t know, I still don’t get off on watching other people surf, call me old fashioned, I would still rather just go down to my local break and actually just catch a few waves (that’s what makes me happy).

mattjohnson
mattjohnson
7 years ago

“We’ve traded the magic for perfection and it is heartbreaking”. MW—classic, really , nobody really knows where all of this is going to wind up a few years from now, Groms going to sleep at night dreaming about a wave tank, instead of the ocean, groms who have lost their stoke for the real ocean. Wave tanks may have ruined real surfing for a whole new coming generation

DrunkenAngel
DrunkenAngel
7 years ago

woah. someone call joel tudor. seems like Dion Agius and Chippa stole their OCTOPUS logo from someone! https://m.octopusbrand.com/en

channelbottom
channelbottom
7 years ago
Reply to  DrunkenAngel

“ABOUT
OCTOPUS is a concept brand founded in 2012 by premium streetwear label IUTER. “OCTOPUS” was a groundbreaking graphic originally released in 2005 by renowned designer Giorgio Di Salvo for VNGRD, and in 2012 IUTER decided to resurrect this concept in a new brand based on the iconic octopus motif, only. With a full spectrum of options every season. 100% Made in Italy”

That logo is pretty much the same eh?

DrunkenAngel
DrunkenAngel
7 years ago
Reply to  channelbottom

yep. busted!!

DrunkenAngel
DrunkenAngel
7 years ago
Reply to  channelbottom

give me dion’s phone number. i will call and interview

Preston
Preston
7 years ago

Greenough’s stuff was cool because it was new and original. Truth be told though if you watched too much of it you’d get fucken seasick. Nick C nailed it: There’s simply too much of everything these days.

frank
frank
7 years ago

I never got tired of looking at Dale Koebetich’s point of view images in the 80s. I had an issue of Breakout Magazine that had a story on him, and I could look at those pictures over and over again, imagining… The color of the water, and the close proximity got my neck hairs up!

Bush
Bush
7 years ago

I love reading what Warshaw has to say but he is seriously jaded with his own surfing life. All the mystic shit about tubes isn’t total bullshit. How many times do u replay it in your head after you get a good one? like constantly until your next one.

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago
Reply to  Bush

Constantly, yes. Still replaying the highlights to this day. But it never felt mystic, just more of a craving that could not be filled. I loved how it felt, but it also had a lot to do with the ego, and knowing that I’d worked out all the tricks and angles and whatnot to get myself in (and hopefully out) of the thing. When I hit my late 40s and was unable to keep my game as sharp as it had been, even with a lot of effort, the drive waned. Thank god, cause it would have driven me nuts to pursue it as I did with a body in slow decline.

f u
f u
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

Im sorry but you have never been truly barrelled. it is the opposite of an ego trip , it is a complete suspension of the self. Time warps, reality bends… its as mystic as it gets. get a body board and go get tubed

mattjohnson
mattjohnson
7 years ago
Reply to  f u

Have to agree a little with CK T, never felt the ego part, just felt like everything came together, when getting tubed

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

I hit surfings glass ceiling around 47 . At 45 was still schooling the local kids in club comps in the old French left hand rip bowl but 2years later I still had moments of brilliance ( at my own little league level ) but the consistency which I’d had from 20 to 45 was slowly slipping away .

Bush
Bush
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

It’s crazy the amount of time spent thinking about getting barreled to the actual time spent doing it. Letting go of that need to go hunt them is definitely liberating ha ha. But it’s still easy to get a fix now and then even if your old and decrepit just go body surfing in the Shorey and pull in!

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago
Reply to  Bush

That’s it. Bodysurfing the shorepound has been my tuberiding go-to for seven years.

longtom
longtom
7 years ago
Reply to  Bush

I got one at Cloudbreak, sheet glass 8foot on a cloudy day with glacial blue waves……it was a like a living thing, breathing in and out…..I honestly don’t know what went on in there, but I cannot forget it.

Jen See
Jen See
7 years ago
Reply to  longtom

Lovely. I would read that whole story, please.

Bush
Bush
7 years ago
Reply to  longtom

Matt’s right it’s prob not mystic (whatever that means) but when ur in a tube there is some serious mind expansion of the senses going on.

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago

Shaun the prawn owned Kodak Reef but MR owned the World for 4years smashing the lip ! On a slightly different note a kook might luck into a decent tube but never a roundhouse cutback to foam rebound ?

Brutus
Brutus
7 years ago

maybe Cheyne Horan and Dane Kealoha should have had one of MR’s titles ….except for some biased judging/ASP!

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Brutus

Agree but then we open the bucket of worms from Midget to John John concerning the selection process of deciding a world champion with a subjective judging system ?

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago

Can I tell you, I am totally sick of watching other people surf on the Internet in general.

Like who gives a fuck, “Oooo I got tubed!” so fucking what, well done.

Surfing in the end will be saved by its raw selfishness.

Brutus
Brutus
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

a fucking tube ride is when you can’t see the nose of the board , which means most of the “dunny squat” rides seen at the K-Tub are not tubes !

Once upon a time tubes were cherished as there was an evoloution in short boards to accommodate tube riding, now days its a bit like watching chopes/Nazare…we have already seen it……as always , but have you actually done it becomes a drowned out dialogue from a not so distant past!

Mads Naeraa
Mads Naeraa
7 years ago
Reply to  Brutus

When it feels hard and awkward and you somehow muscled through a wave, it probably wasn’t a proper barrel. When you feel in perfect position, and your board goes twice as fast as usual, and nothing is a problem, it most definitely was.

I had a couple this month that were like that – some in perfect Indo surf, some at home in wonky beach break. Transcendent.

Phat-wan kerr
Phat-wan kerr
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

I don’t mind it. I would rather that than all the instasurfers on sups, wake surfing etc that somehow end being published/ shared on surf sites (ultra hard surf candy) that boggles my mind.

Zach Makki
Zach Makki
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

Then don’t watch it? That seems pretty simple. If you can’t enjoy watching good surfing I feel kinda bad for you.

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago
Reply to  Zach Makki

Don’t feel kinda bad for me Zach Makki, I am pretty sure I will recover from this affliction and move on with my life.

Mads Naeraa
Mads Naeraa
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

Agree with the first parts, Nick. Not the raw selfishness, though.

Murky Ball
Murky Ball
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

This.

Except surfing doesn’t need saving. We ride along in the imaginary bandwagon of what is Good for The Sport, seat-back displays showing footage of Namibia and Chas handing out snacks, but the only people who should really give a shit are the hawkers and scribes-for-hire trying to wring a quid out of our mistaken idea that strangers throwing spray in some video matters one fucking atom to each of our enjoyment of riding waves. I browse this site for kicks and fun but if every single other surfer (except maybe a few mates) in the world spontaneously quit and no-one ever mentioned wave-sliding again I wouldn’t give a shit.

Hamish Barker
Hamish Barker
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

You know what I like to watch. Drone footage of empty line ups or one dude surfing it. He can even be a beginner. That for me is like surf porn. Imagining I’m there at the line up
But I hate drones. Go figure

DrunkenAngel
DrunkenAngel
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

get off the interwebs people.off grid is where its at!

f u
f u
7 years ago

so funny. you have obviously never been in a true tube or barrell. can you not at least find people who actually surf to interview?

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
7 years ago
Reply to  f u

Oh they’re very thin on the ground. But Warshaw, he’s something. Former Z-Boy! Pal of Jay Adams etc. He did have the nickname Wimpy, howevs.

f u
f u
7 years ago

thats ok. most people were wimpy comapred to Jay

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
7 years ago
Reply to  f u

And, oh, didn’t he let them know! He hated sissies! This is ver good reading. https://beachgrit.com/2014/…

mattjohnson
mattjohnson
7 years ago

Good to hear from Matt!!

mattjohnson
mattjohnson
7 years ago
Reply to  mattjohnson

But I think for time to stand still in the tube, it’s got to be a natural wave that has traveled thousands of miles, born of cosmic energy, and has to be surfed by the right spiritually aware person. Or maybe, when tube riding was first coming in to vogue, and people were getting seriously slotted, time did slow down, at least in our minds.

longtom
longtom
7 years ago
Reply to  mattjohnson

tube riding and psychedelics have a synergistic effect, probably.

Krill
Krill
7 years ago
Reply to  longtom

A study should be conducted immediately!

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Krill

Litmus test . Acid or Alkali?

f u
f u
7 years ago
Reply to  Krill

I did the study. its true

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  longtom

I watched , possibly alone at the Nambucca Cinema in 82 ,Crystal Voyager and Innermost Limits and those films were definitely made for those who had open the doors of perception and not for a sober teenager .

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago

90-10 stoned/not-stoned ratio for Morning of the Earth, is my guess. 73-30 for Crystal Voyager.

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

Sadly I was born in 65 not 55 and by the time I saw it surfing had moved back to the city and beer bongs , spit the winkle and dropping a 50cent piece from between ones arse cheeks into a schooner glass had replaced the internal crystal voyage . Thanks for the statistics and appreciate your role as a guardian and storyteller of surfing’s colourful and checkered history .

Mads Naeraa
Mads Naeraa
7 years ago

Proper cultural heritage there, JB 🙂

Son of the same decade, but much later to the surf party, and grew up in a waveless wasteland (full of Nordic goddesses, mind you). Was very interesting learning about surf culture from a distance via Tracks, Surfer etc.

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Mads Naeraa

Australian surfing magazines were my trusted adolescent guide through to another intoxicating world and filled the void left empty by school , television , and newspapers . Inspired me to read and to think and live outside the square . Lead me to a life of surfing and a Nordic Goddess .

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago

The pride I feel in this! Now I want to cry.

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago

The dropped 50-cent trick is a new one on me! We are truly an inventive breed . . .

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

Matt I’ll drop my pay wall . 86/7 Quiksilver Surf League ITN v Elouera BC . Lube took down the Kerrbox ! Early Afternoon Interclub Party after an EBC away win Then interclub games with the highlight being to walk through an obstacle course with coin held between cheeks before dropping it into a Schooner glass . Not as famous as the Stubb’s Budgie biting or as shocking as the French game of lighting ones pubic hair and see how long it can burn before stamping it out with ones palm .

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago

Box I know. Or I know by legend. “Lube”?

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

Andrew “ Lube or Lips “ Linegar .

mine.mine.mine
mine.mine.mine
7 years ago
Reply to  mattjohnson

mattjohn.. yes.. the natural is always better to play with. fake are too perky. I travel a full day by air to get to a place where I get barreled (infrequently), where my mate can yell at me that I “don’t need any sunscreen on that one” or tells me I left plenty of meat on the bone. I am afraid of the wave, I am afraid of the reef below it.. (scars on my feet and elbows remind me of it daily) every takeoff gets my balls tight to my stomach, and every spit makes me feel as though they are dragging on my knees. I work out 6 days a week because of this wave and it keeps me young. This wave has brought me a larger family and a happy wife who now loves the land and people of the land this wave kisses. The internet has made the tube boring, as is everything that you watch.. but when you go do it is far from boring.

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  mine.mine.mine

The essential , is not the size of the trophy but the sacrifice made to get ones hands on it . Enjoy the fruits of your labours .

mine.mine.mine
mine.mine.mine
7 years ago

thanks JB.. I work my ass off for it.. I still suck at it in comparison to some and better than others. but when you get that one… your wife can ask you to adopt another child and you say yes. only to wake up 4 years later wondering what happened

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago
Reply to  mine.mine.mine

you nailed it, that’s just what it was for me too. Not the family and wife part, but all the fear and the anticipation, and the total commitment, which truly felt like an addiction.

mattjohnson
mattjohnson
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

“Felt” like an adiiction? I think surfing truly can be an addiction, it ruled my life for decades, dawn patrols, solo trips to Baja, lost job opportunities, not saving for the future, the list goes on, like you or Lewis Samuel said, it can really mess with your life if you’re not careful.

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago
Reply to  mine.mine.mine

that’s fantastic mine.

Mapski
Mapski
7 years ago

There is an excellent hollow reef break on the south end of the bay I live at that has brought out the most petty, selfish,territorial behavior imaginable for forty plus years. It’s a six second barrel. I can’t comprehend what a twenty second tube would give rise to.

@surfads
@surfads
7 years ago
Reply to  Mapski

Everyone would be super chill and satiated. The shorter the baz the hungrier the locals. Speaking of which, where’s your six second barrel and how many mates can I bring?

Mapski
Mapski
7 years ago
Reply to  @surfads

It’s near Lemoore. Bring everyone.

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Mapski

I was hoping you were going to say Long Bay ( the prison near Maroubra ) .

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago

January, hopefully. Costa Rica or Nica or somewhere else warm.

longtom
longtom
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

whats it like getting back on the sled after a long stretch out ?

Return of the Samsung Board
Return of the Samsung Board
7 years ago
Reply to  longtom

Do you have to get fit beforehand?

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
7 years ago

Here’s something. Push-ups make you paddle better. Dunno why.

Return of the Samsung Board
Return of the Samsung Board
7 years ago

Ugh

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago

Ummm muscle activation. You want to actually surf better, activate the muscles of the upper legs prior to paddling out.

Poop Stance
Poop Stance
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

Do you still have a surf fitness column somewhere? Those were helpful especially with so much misinformation out there now.

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago
Reply to  Poop Stance

No! But I should do hey. It would be sooo unInertial. There would be no “five things” and nothing involving a gym. And no Yoga. Definitely none of that.

OffRocker
OffRocker
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

Please.

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago
Reply to  OffRocker

OKI’ll figure it out.

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

With little jumps?

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago

If that’s what it takes mate.

tbh you wanna get a quick result on leg strength, go to a track or a park or footy oval or something with a few mates and do this:

800 super slow jog warm up
6 x 100m hard effort sprints with 100m walk-back re-sets on 2mins
6 x 50m max efforts with 50m walk through re-sets on 45secs
400m slow jog warm down

Three times in a week. Wear good shoes, stretch the hamstrings esp within an hour of finishing.
By the end of the week your legs will feel sore but once you warm up, you’ll feel way more spring.

ps It hurts. It’s supposed to hurt.

Jen See
Jen See
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

Bikes also work pretty well, on the whole. And swimming pools.

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago
Reply to  Jen See

Swimming! You gang and your swimmings! Here is an exciting swim set for everybody, what I did this morning:

50m pool one hopes. 25 if it must be.

300m warmup
2 x 100m kick on 2mins, build in each last 50, use fins if you want
6 x 50m on 1min, quick for the first 25, easy the second 25

little holiday then, 3 x through:

300m on 4min30 aerobic
200m on 3min build (faster each 50)
100m on 1min30 hard effort
2 x 50m swim off on 1min

200m easy finish to wash out the lactate

Basically a 1.30 cycle grind, trying to get faster as you go each round. bastard of a set unless you are a good swimmer.

I really find the aerobic strength from swimming is a great thing as you get a bit older, you can still surf for hours and catch as many waves as you want.

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

So much for the loneliness of the long distance runner . I spent years of my life from ages 6 to 12 making friends every morning for 2hours with the black line at the bottom of the pool and it certainly was a solid base for someone who wanted to pass their life away in the sea but more importantly made surfing and the ocean ,in comparison, seem so F’in exciting and free .

Some Guy
Some Guy
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

“2 x 100m kick on 2mins, build in each last 50, use fins if you want
6 x 50m on 1min, quick for the first 25, easy the second 25″

Could you explain the kick on 2 mins, build in each last 50? Does this mean swimming the 100m in 2 mins (30 secs wall to wall in a 24 m pool), swim full speed last 50m?

And the 6 x 50m on 1 min I’m assuming is keeping a 1 min pace for each 50m?

The second set sounds doable, although the 100m @ 1:30 is heavy. Then I noticed the 3 sets. That’s nuts but I like the challenge.

Heard from a lifeguard friend that their test involves swimming 500m in under 10 minutes so that’s been the swimming portion of my routine. I’ve gotten my time down to just under 9 minutes. Good workout and I hate it each time. Always feel the panic button being pressed about a third of the way through and its such a mental battle to try and shut off my mind and just focus on efficiency and proper breathing. I guess that’s the whole point.

Thanks for the info…(Not) looking forward to trying your routine.

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago
Reply to  Some Guy

What the times are is intervals. Like you get 2mins to finish the 100 before you go again. So if you finish it in 1.40, you get 20 secs rest. (It’s not a swim, that one, it’s just kicking, and yeah you try to go harder on the second 50.)

Same with the 50s etc.

Really this is much too hard a set to do off the cuff, if you want to then maybe just push the main set time out to 2min 100s (ie 300/6mins, 200/4mins, 100/2mins) and just do two of ‘em, not three. And take a break between the first and second.

I think swimming comes across as a bit geeky really, all those times! Etc. But I don’t think any single thing beats it as a surf prep/recovery/holdover in surf-lean periods. Plus to do it well you have to get soooo close to water, how it moves and how to move through it.

Some Guy
Some Guy
7 years ago
Reply to  Nick Carroll

Thank you, really appreciate the 411. I’ll def put it to use. One question…for the kicking part, do you use one of those little body board things for support?

Nick Carroll
Nick Carroll
7 years ago
Reply to  Some Guy

If you want!

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Jen See

Bikes ( along as one doesn’t hit the deck ) are nice on knees .

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago

Push-ups are a similar action to taking off on a wave and don’t forget the legs ! If you are going to stand up , you are going to have to use your legs . 1hour every 2nd day jogging, stretching , push-ups etc will definitely help older landlocked warriors called backed to battle ?

Jen See
Jen See
7 years ago

I joke about abs? But abs. You need ’em to surf good.

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
7 years ago
Reply to  Jen See

Oh, abs. Is starvation the only way to see them?

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago

Starvation is so true ,though wonderful for the ego ,one has to wonder if it is great for ones health and mental health to be so obsessed by trying to resemble a sporty adolescent.The last time I was truly cut ,I was living off a strict diet of surfing , cigarettes and alcohol and not much else .

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
7 years ago

I’m not sure why, but ex-junkies are gifted cut bodies for the remainder of their lives.

Return of the Samsung Board
Return of the Samsung Board
7 years ago

Food poisoning has given me the best results so far

Jen See
Jen See
7 years ago

Ha ha, well, starvation and doping are a good way to see ’em. But you don’t have to really see them to use ’em for the surfing.

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
7 years ago
Reply to  Jen See

I have a theory that abs greatly improve one’s kill ratio in dodgy ,difficult and late take offs . ( shit I am sounding like Laird ) . Funnily enough male surfers are so busy staring at there own belly buttons that they forget that surfing gifts them ( along with broad shoulders ) wonderful gluteals ?

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago

pushups, standing jumps, lunges. and I push around the schoolyard for a couple weeks on one of these https://www.amazon.com/RIMA…

AM
AM
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

As a surfer who only surfs 2 weeks a year at best, swimming is also good. Even just 6 sessions before heading down. Something to harden up my ribs would also help. Being cardio fit is also pretty key I think…

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago
Reply to  AM

Yes, I walk and-or jog 7 miles a day. I can’t bring myself to swim, but you’re right, it’s the best one in terms of staying in shape for surfing. 10 minutes’ worth of laps in the pool for me feels like an hour.

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago
Reply to  longtom

harder and harder each year. on the other hand, it takes less and less to make it feel worthwhile. One decent turn, one fast section, and I’m all aglow!

Brutus
Brutus
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

Are you having the old mans curse , of getting slower and slower to ya feet on the take off?
Once you are up and going all good , but that pesky take off??

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
7 years ago

The banter is much more fun than the 150-click drive to Westport, I think.

Poop Stance
Poop Stance
7 years ago

V. cold here. I keep waiting for a cameo though and saw his doppelgänger the other day.

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago
Reply to  Poop Stance

I would, but can’t even imagine at this point trying to surf in a 5-mil.

The Bitchy Crab
The Bitchy Crab
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

What if I arranged delivery of a very advanced wetsuit? Would that point your car west?

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago

That’s really nice thanks, but nah. Trunks and rash guard from here on out.

Some Guy
Some Guy
7 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

I just moved a year ago from Dana Point to Outer Banks NC. I’d never worn more than a 4/3. I was really wondering how I’d fare in a hooded 5 mil suit, gloves and boots. One of the first times I ever surfed in all that gear, the water was 37, air 40. I remember the pure panicked flight response as I began duck diving. I was fully prepared to turn around, go straight home and tell wife we were bailing back to CA the next day. But lo and behold within 5 mins I completely adjusted and forgot about the cold. Wetsuits really are good these days. But not many people are as dependent on surfing to keep them from coming completely undone as myself.

Jen See
Jen See
7 years ago

Heh. Where were you when I had to go surf that place and froze my California ass off. God, it’s so cold there. The wind, the water, everything. Fuck.

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
7 years ago
Reply to  Jen See

Where was I? In my 69-degree-heated home, wearing thermal socks, like any other sane PNW person in winter. Or Fall, or Spring.


105
0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x