Say "I love you" with five simple letters.
There was a time, not all that long ago, when you were going to do something with your surfing life. Win a contest, maybe two. Get on tour. Get sponsored. You’d wake up early in the morning, before the sun even, peddle your bike the the beach and practice all manner of cutback, closeout barrel, flyaway air then peddle home salty and improved.
One step closer to beating Damien Hardman.
Your mother was there on the porch, of course, cross because you were going to be late for school. Again. But you told her, you told her true, that you were on the way to surfing greatness. That you’d be someone someday. Greater than Gary Elkerton even.
Her ire would soften and she’d make your lunch then hustle you off, out the door, where you’d spend your day drawing a big barrel over the tennis player on your Pee-Chee folder.
Well, life took a turn. You fell in love, fell out of love, discovered alcohol, maybe drugs, went to college, got a job and that surf dream, that push toward excellence, slowly withered into a barely living salty plum.
Your mother, poor mother, now sits at home, candle lit by window, still waiting for news of your surfing victory over Ian Cairns.
Well guess what?
You can still deliver on your promise, all you need is a little help, your own personal digital fitness and health coach.
WHOOP is a great encourager. It reflects back, harshly, the soft lump you’ve become, initially, then motivates you to be better.
A little higher strain one day, more efficient sleep the next. Gentle feedback along the way. “You achieved above average strain.” “Start getting ready for bed.”
You listen, react, feel more refreshed, ready to take on new challenges and soon you are back at the beach before the sun pulling into closeouts, flying away with panache.
WHOOP doesn’t let you self-deceive, doesn’t let you take long breaks or participate in bad habits. It is there, constantly, reminding you of your pact, of the best you.
It’s only a matter of time before word arrives to your long-suffering mother that you, indeed, made your way to Huntington Beach and back paddled 1976 champion the poor man’s Ian Cairn, Peter Townend.
A lonely tear rolls down her cheek.
Her child has achieved.
Fireworks!
Chas….seems as though you sold your soul to the devil and in return just got a shitty ol watch…get rid of it!…for all our sakes..but mostly for yourself brother!…replacement could include vodka soda and chambord (although a bit of a summer beverage) or kick a dog.?
Ohh, you provide cleaning products for the kitchen clean up!?
I used to love climbing in a window for the late.
“There was a time, not all that long ago, when you were going to do something with your surfing life. Win a contest, maybe two. Get on tour. Get sponsored. You’d wake up early in the morning, before the sun even, peddle your bike the the beach and practice all manner of cutback, closeout barrel, flyaway air then peddle home salty and–improved.”
Hahaha, never had one of those so-called lofty inspirations.
But I did ‘like’ going on the ‘dawn’ ‘patrol’–and liked getting tubed..
Who’s your favorite pro surfer?
You’re funny.
No really
Who?
SammyH2O
..ya know?
I’m guessing
Matt Johnson
Got it …
Trust me, you are funny–anyone with a name like ‘hot stuff, can and should not be taken very seriously.
Sorry bro, kinda da truth.
Aren’t you the guy who used to put ‘cheesecake’ photos next to your user name.
Ok, ya, ok, maybe, maybe your right–Matt Johnson–he had a ‘boss’ cutback.
Leroy was cool too- in his own way.
I think Hot Stuff needs to attend church more often, he not only has lewd pictures as his avatar he eats pills made for farm animals.
It doesn’t take much to outsurf Ian Cairns nowadays. The average VAL would be capable. I saw him at my former local spot a number of years ago. A notorious reefbreak in OC. He blew four take-offs in a row.
It wouldn’t take much to back paddle PT either.
Funny–how guys who were all for ‘pro’ surfing in their past– always seem to wind up with not the best rep.–or being held in any high esteem, KS included.
I find this most interesting.
While dudes like, the Bear, Lynch, Lopez, Reno, Edward’s, seem to age into our minds well.
Ok, when he was at the Surf Ranch awhile back he had to ride a Sup to get into waves, (no pop-up required).
So hey man, you think ‘you’ are going to stay young forever?
Bear–“I have my memories”.
Or maybe that was da Cat.
Someday, that may be all any of have.
Let’s just make the best of today.
You’ve lost that loving feeling, woah-oah that loving feeling…
A noticeable collapse of enthusiasm writing about Whoop. It was inevitable of course, for we all saw the tedious nature of this contractual relationship.
But wow, this here…this sudden lack of care, goes beyond just the average BG slight, and enters the realm of breaching your contract with Whoop.
This is a heartfelt love story!
So was Throw Momma From the Train
I don’t know which was more soppy, this or Bens piece.
But at least our boy didn’t waste half the pixels on the internet getting his thoughts down. So I’m gonna give it to Chas. Both filed under Trash.
You actually read BM’s articles? When I see his garbage, I don’t waste my time even looking at it.
Sad to say, I do! He can write. I find his stuff oddly engaging.
Odd being the operative word.
That said, I wish he’d write elsewhere and this is all Negas fault.
I’m sure Whole Foods Malibu wishes Ben would write elsewhere too.
Lololol
I like seeing something different for a change.
I just bought a wii fit on ebay for fuk all
It’s fun and for all the family.
No sale here.
Eff it, if you’re selling out to corporate overlords, you might as well give a piece of your arm to the surf brand ambassadors.
True story, saw a Mexican farm laborer in the fields wearing a hurley hat. Grit4lyfe
Don’t do it for me. Do it for mama.