Welcome to the second circle of hell.
Olympic bronze medalist Owen Wright is nothing if not prolific in retirement. The 33-year-old Australian has built a “staggering” real estate portfolio and become an author. His book, Against the Water, an instant classic detailing his heroic journey from duck dive-induced brain trauma at the Banzai Pipeline to the third highest step on Tokyo 2020’s stage.
Wright, described as “model-handsome with long blond hair,” sat down with The Guardian, recently, to add flavor to his story, something he was not allowed as a child.
Surprises?
For starters, the Pipeline incident was not the first bonk on the head for Wright. Far from it, in fact, as he shares that he probably had somewhere between twenty to thirty concussions while surfing.
And also more details of his hothouse upbringing.
Rob Wright believed there was no shortage of great surfers, but very few great competitors. And he set about drilling his children: they had no TV and no toys; mornings would start with a family kung-fu session, sometimes at 4.30am. They ate plain vegetarian food, served with no sauce or seasoning, and travelled to surf competitions around Australia on a school minibus. That last detail reminded me of Richard Williams, the rambunctious father of Venus and Serena, whose eccentricities were showcased in the film King Richard, starring Will Smith. Wright laughs, “Watching that Williams sisters movie was kind of triggering.”
Wright says he was his father’s clear favorite, something that didn’t necessarily bother his siblings. “The attention was never that great,” he said. “I was also the one who got up at the crack of dawn and trained and all the rest of it. They were more than happy to pass on that!”
Unlike his sister Tyler, Wright doesn’t seem to wholly blame father Rob, crediting him, in fact, with the life he now lives. “My dad did so many things that clearly got great results,” he confesses. “That relationship was the reason I surfed, it was the reason I pushed, it was the reason I rebelled, it was the reason I pushed again. It’s part of the reason I’ve retired. And it’s part of the reason I made it back out of the head injury.”
Today, he is caring for his father while parenting his own two children, slightly worried that his eldest son might follow in his footsteps. The six-year-old surfed in his first competition. The waves were big though the child was brave. Later, though, he came and told Wright they were, in fact, too big.
“What have I done?” he wondered. While also recognizing “The apple doesn’t fall too far from the tree.”
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Taylors Faustian pact with Claws Gmorges Wokes’ll do the trick. The fair for your Tiger ride now Taylor.
Rich white people complaining again. At least no mention of ovaries.
NO SAUCE?
l’horreur – son père n’était visiblement pas français
Holy Fuck Bailey ladders need to sponsor these cunts just so they can over themselves. Actually they more likely need ol Beefies Fucking Long Ladders. Whining cunts.
There’s the crazy surf Dad (Wrights, Jack Robbo) and the absent surf Dad (Kelly, JJF and many more).
Not too many good bloke surf Dads, although Kerrzy and Dorian seem to be bringing that into fashion.
Matt George discussed this on a recent podcast, probably the swellians, but could have been Surf Splendor. Made the point that Machado’s early life with a stable family led to him surfing with a more flowing style than the aggressive approach of Slater. It could be bullshit, but I thought it interesting
Home life might get you surfing by escaping or together in the family van. Where and who with are the bigger factors, I think:
Cocoa Beach and Sebastian Inlet (shifty, dumpy, lead weights thrown at you) vs Seaside and proximity (a surfing country club in comparison)
Older brother killing it, redneck rippers, and Matt Kechele as an air pioneer vs dad with other 1960-70s hold-overs (not many in Fl), San Diego County dudes, and NSSA judging
white horse saloon just stole his heart/
Don’t worry Owen, my missus tries to feed me that shit too.
I think we’d all take a sausage roll and choccy milk over veggies if it mean a few extra lts of foam, aye.
Candle. Lit.
will see it when it might be on~
Whatever Owen’s issues may be we can never forget Fiji 2015. Back to back perfect heats at pumping 8′ Cloudbreak to win the event. Literally 4 perfect 10’s in 2 heats and multiple other 8’s and 9’s that he threw away. Greatest performance in Pro Surfing history.
It’s the only moment in Owen’s career that really matters at this point in my opinion and it’s a banger.
I’m watching it again now. Beautiful. Almost makes me miss Pottz as I listen.
“Back in my day Joe…”
He had a few at Da Pipeline too! Shooootz!
And a few at Cho-oh-oh-poh-uuu-o in (and my memory is hazy and too lazy to google…) 2014? That epic day they had that Gab won?
Out now.
The true story of why Tyler was off tour with a mystery illness.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
An iodine deficiency caused by prolonged forced consumption of unsalted vegetables…
Retired at 33 ain’t too shabby…Im only semi retarded
Apparently you should never go full
Full retired!
I’d have to get a Tudor for that.
Don’t be fooled by everything going right for him. No, know nothing is going Wright for him.
“and you can’t have any pudding until you eat my meat…” Roger Waters
(I loved loved liked liked the handsome handsome Richard Wright on keyboards)
Gilmore definitely a hottie in his day
The grass was greener…
Fuck off dickhead. I woke early each morning to practise my fucking scales and all that contrapuntal not jazz and had to ingest the worst of everyone cook chop sui (pub in my town: Australian and Chinese) and still wound being a not world champion of anything. The fucking indignity of it all.
we’re all bozos on this bus…Ken Kesey
https://www.azquotes.com/pi…