The Bali-based surfer Dylan Hayllar took a puddle
jumper (plane, not board) across the Lombok Strait
recently to ride a wave that puts everyone in a good
mood.
Desert Point.
Is it ok to say its name now that it’s populated by surfers of
all race and nationalities, stand-ups, lay-downs etc?
In this five-and-a-half-minute short, Hayllar whittles
easy-looking four-foot Desert Point tubes down to toothpicks. His
face, I imagine, is frozen in a tube steak shine after so much
shade.
It ain’t John John’s
Space but, in some ways, its accessibility and how
makable the waves are, even for everyday mutts, gives it something
you might love even more.
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Meola's cold-cocked airs cushion the trauma of
all the slow motion.
Helicopter-boy Matt Meola in “Wave your
hands up in the air Johnny!”
It might slo-mo you to death but wait until Matt
spins like a top! Seriously primped!
Here’s a four-minute short that ain’t what you’d call
feisty. It cups an ass-cheek real slow, gets you ready for
harvesting time, in this case, a hit of Matt Meola spins that gonna
make you spit a gob of your tobacco.
Slow motion, slow motion, slow motion. It kills me
But then Matt, who is twenty nine years old (oh don’t the
time fly) and from Maui, awakens what I thought was dead from the
waist down.
There is a flint and steel in Meola’s surfing that is impossible
to ignore. He opens his housecoat and we can only stare.
Missed the Hurley Facebook stream a couple of hours
back? Watch John John's hypnotic new short film here!
A couple of hours back, Hurley streamed the new short of
John John Florence, officially called Space
but perhaps more aptly titled You Could’ve Escaped This Years
Ago, on their Facebook page.
Didn’t work in Australia. But you can watch via video channel
Vimeo. Hit the big play button above.
Back in June, I wondered: was John John’s knee injury part of
the theatre of his transition from the tour? Was he wrapped in an
intolerable existential crisis?
Last at Snapper to Mikey Wright. Second-last to the fanatically
intense Zeke Lau at Bells. A long dick in the guts at Lemoore.
Second-last to Jesse Mendes, Bali. His withdrawal from the
Margaret River Reboot had the undercurrent of a drowning man who’d
do anything to find a little air, to breathe.
Of course, pro surfing needs John John more than he needs
it.
The two-time world champion, who is twenty five, radiates a calm
and dignity unseen in any sport. No regularly updated social
accounts, no interviews, nothing.
John John lives to surf.
It’s evident in this film.
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Justin Cote
Dane “Danger” Reynolds stars in, “When I
surf, I surf for God!”
A best of compilation from Cluster, Chapter 11,
Premium Violence, Controller Crux and Copacetic…
The best friend of Dane “Danger” Reynolds is the
bodyboarding expert and noted surf-filmmaker Jason “Mini”
Blanchard. Mini has his name tattooed on his knuckles,
wins boogie contests at a whim and has singlehandedly, and with
great proficiency, documented the rise and now plateau of his
slightly younger master.
This four-minute short hits the floor with a thud and it’s if
something has been knocked loose. It is a compilation of highlights
from the films Cluster, Chapter 11,
Premium Violence, Controller Crux and
Copacetic.
It really does slam the barn door, as they say.
And when you’ve washed your hands of “When I surf I surf for
God” watch this old classic from almost a decade ago!
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Mick Fanning's soft blue eyes gaze adoringly
at The Snake's loveliness. Do you know where this wave is? Do you
want one thousand dollars?
Reward: $1000 for revealing location of
Mick Fanning’s secret wave!
Late last night, the Torquay-based wetsuit company Rip
Curl released a short video where Mick Fanning introduces
the apparently gravely ill Tyler Wright to his secret wave called
The Snake.
You remember the wave’s initial debut, yes?
It set the world alight but was quickly forgotten as well all
moved into the chlorine sphere. What would’ve, five years
previously, been in the headlines for a month evaporated with a
week.
As Rip Curl posted at the time:
What if I told you there was an unknown sand-bottom right
that is five kilometres long, breaks 20 metres off the beach, holds
six foot of swell and has only been surfed by four people on the
entire planet? Would you believe me? What if
good-ol’-having-a-year-off-Mick Fanning was one of those surfers,
and he told you that this wave had him haulin’ arse like an F1
driver down a strip of sand that never seemed to end. Would you
believe him? – This ain’t no fucking wave pool! This is the real
world. This is The Snake.
Refresh your memory here.
In this latest reveal, the film begins with an awkward phone
call between Tyler and Mick where Mick promises the defending world
champ the perfect training camp for Surf Ranch (Tyler has since
withdrawn due to an “ongoing illness”) and soon turns into a
session in little chest-high peelers.
It ain’t like the first film, or anything close to ol Naxto’s
clip that also dropped today, but it’s enough to elevates my blood
pressure.
Now. Question.
Do you know where this wave is and what conditions it needs to
press its buttons? (I’m guessing north-west swell, Atlantic
Ocean.)
Yes?
How much, therefore, for your soul?
For the first person to give BeachGrit, which
includes the emaciated semi-invalid Chas and, me, the promiscuous
humper, the keys to this kingdom I offer one thousand dollars.
We won’t tell (another) soul but we do wish to satisfy our
curiosity and to provide an occasional getaway.
