Globe releases full-length surf movie, “The universe is a meat grinder and we’re just pork in designer shoes, keeping busy so we can pretend we’re not all headed for the sausage factory!”

Australian surfer Dion Agius releases a love letter to Tasmania, a state he adopted after living in "hellish" LA and Byron Bay.

The Australian surfer Dion Agius, who made his name as a regular in his best friend Kai Neville’s surfing movies, lives in a little wooden cabin in the town of Scamander at the mouth of the Scamander River between Saint Helens and Saint Mary in Tasmania, an island off Australia’s mainland.

Dion, who is thirty six, moved to Tasmania after two years in Los Angeles selling Epohke sunglasses that he describes as “the worst two years of my life. It changed my whole perspective on life. I was living with my buddy who ended up passing away and it got to the point where I was living in this shithole traffic going to showings and thinking, ‘What the fuck am I doing? This is horrible.’ It made me revaluate my life. It’s not about making a quick buck. I found a spot down here, forty acres on a river, no one around.”

This movie, which was funded by the shoe company Globe, is a sort of love letter to Dion’s slice of the world, with environmental overtones etc.

There’s a book, too, by the very good photographer John Respondek, an essential for people who like pretty photos of surfing. It is 296-pages long, has a stiff cover and costs eighty Australian dollars. 

See: Miracle waves ridden, pier shooting on Lake Tahoe with Dylan Graves in “People get depressed because they get bored. I don’t get bored because I know how to go into the unknown!”

Get your kazoo blown six thousand feet above sea level!

Men can be divided into two groups, those that take their watches off and those that leave ’em on.

Dylan Graves is a thirty-five-year-old surfer from Puerto Rico with more than fifty thousand followers on his Instagram account and a long scrawny neck and a sharp Adam’s apple and big long-fingered hands, like those of a flautist. He is in the former camp, a freewheeler for whom pleasure always beats ambition and the pursuit of cash.

In the fourth and final episode of Van’ third Weird Waves season, Dylan opens his can of feel-good beans and pours it over the meat of a windswell on Lake Tahoe, one of North America’s great alpine lakes.

Very shreddable two-foot waves are taken apart, there’s a cameo from nineties pro Jon Rose, and the episode concludes with a little pier shooting.

Much anticipation for season four.

Full-length documentary: World champion surfer Italo Ferreira, scrutinised, lionised, in upcoming film, “Evil is normal on this planet and most people don’t share his capability for love!”

When a man's poor he's hungry for everything, not only for bread. And so he becomes a surfer from necessity, from ambition. 

Contrary to many opinions, Italo Ferreira isn’t unpredictable.

He’s very predictable.

He makes a pattern of his future and he follows it stubbornly.

This film, made by director Luiza De Moraes, a relatively small-fry filmmaker although this is no reflection of her fine work, follows the trajectory of Italo from kid growing up in a little beach town, poor as anything, to earning a million bucks a year as a pro surfing world champ.

It’s an old and hackneyed story, but in Italo’s case it’s true: the key to the pro surfing kingdom wasn’t presented to him on an upholstered velvet cushion via a dad that surfed, a benevolent sponsor and a training program where men stand on the beach under an umbrella filming the children for later review of technique.

When a man’s poor he’s hungry for everything, not only for bread. And so he becomes a surfer from necessity, from ambition.

In 2014, when Italo would finish seventh on the WQS, Dino Andino, whose own son would miss his first tour victory four years later because of Italo’s preternatural ability, came up to Timmy Patterson, Italo’s shaper since he was fifteen, and said, “Who is that Italian guy? He’s doing floaters on eight-foot closeouts on grinding beachbreaks and making ‘em. He’s going to be on tour next year. That guy’s a freak.”

Energy. Spirit. Passion. More hackneyed phrases.

But, for Italo, they just work.

Movie releases July.


Puerto Rican surfer Dylan Graves flouts fears of instant brain death and rides most dangerous wave yet: “I’m going to end up like one of those old weirdos who lives in a network of tunnels burrowed through trash – yet I do not fear this.”

Wild and beautiful.

In episode three, season three, of Vans’ Weird Waves series, which is hosted by the Puerto Rican shredder Dylan Graves, the essential nature of fun is explored over the course of a series of vignettes.

The most revealing is the examination of the work of Orange County surfer Parker Cohn.

Parker, who is twenty, has discovered a surge of water that pushes through a naturally occurring archway and onto a battlefield of barely submerged rocks.

“Hopping fences, running from security guards, guaranteed to lose skin on the reef, all to get away from the chaos of southern California’s waves,” says Graves.

“This is Narnia, and to get there you have to go into your grandma’s closet, open the door and crawl in,” says the mysterious Cohn.

Breathtaking: Hawaiian Mason Ho makes Endless Summer-style discovery in Mexico, “All God’s Chillun Got Wings!”

Tiny empty tubes for happy Hawaiian… 

In this short film, released today, we find Mason Ho south of the now non-existent US border, riding sand-bottom tubes reminiscent of Bruce Brown’s famous Cape Saint Francis discovery in 1962.

The waves are little but are so brilliantly turned out, that once combined with Mason’s goofiness and pert little body, the director is gifted money shot after money shot after money shot, like a barebacking gang-bang scene in a rock-and-cock movie.