Hawaii’s queen of crazy Mason Ho reveals latest secret wave in “With a quiver of exquisite pleasure he touched the warm soft water and touched her wetness for a moment in a kiss!”

How many times have we seen Mason, from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?

Mason Ho is an inspiration for his “new, soft, heavy, hot flow.”

How many times have we seen Mason, the thirty two year old from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?

And while trying to postpone the inevitable fall, giving an impression of ease and grace?

This is the artist’s compulsion, the obsessive pursuit of the masterpiece.

In this latest episode of Mason’s adventures, this boy-man, who has the soul of a beautiful, imperious and passionate woman, yet locked into the body of a middling male physique, possesses yet another secret wave in Indonesia.

Such great balance and exuberance.


Santa Barbara father-of-three Dane Reynolds makes surprise surf hit of the summer, “I picture the human mind as a movie screen. We are the absolute bosses of that whole theatre and show in our minds!”

"I'm bullshit proof!"

There is no reason, except a stupid one, for anyone to project on a screen anything that will dull that vital edge. 

And here we find the filmmaker and go-for-broke surfer Dane Reynolds, at the end of his thirty-sixth year, in the midst of maturity full of pain.

The famous daddy-body is heavy, massive like the country that gave him birth. Short arms, dainty hands.

Yet when he surfs he becomes like a cowboy of the Westerns: ready to fire his guns at the drop of a hat, getting into a rage at the least provocation.

In this latest episode of Chapter 11 TV, Reynolds with filmers Hunter Martinez, Mini Blanchard  and Andrew Schoener, has constructed a fine collection of local surfers from Oxnard, that tragic westside slum inhabited by poverty-mauled whites. 

“A medley of my friends and I surfing our favorite zones over the past winter and hopefully captures the essence of our surf community,” says the former world number four. 

Too many highlights to list. Essential etc. 

Two-time world champion surfer John John Florence rinses off shock Olympic failure with unmissable short film, “Rhythm is something you either have or don’t have, but when you have it, you have it all over!”

A gift, I don’t think is overstating things, from the media house of John John Florence and the makers of the inclusive surf-hijab, Florence Marine X. 

This ten-minute film was shot during  John John’s Australian campaign, which yielded a ninth, a seventeenth and a ruined knee.

The film is a welcome balm for JJF fans after he sensationally withdrew from the next two events of the championship tour last week, a season ending decision given his current rating outside the world title showdown top five.  

Florence’s lunge for Olympic gold, of course, was derailed in round three by fellow American Kolohe Andino. 

This film is all cherries, no pips. 

Hawaii’s Queen of Crazy Mason Ho conquers unridable Mexican drainers in, “What if we are all simply lost souls blown off course, just trying to get home?”

Mason Ho solo surfs wild point wave near site of upcoming WSL contest!

A new short from the house of Ho, Pringle and supplemented with fine drone work by Jason Crane finds Queen of Crazy Mason Ho tied to a tree like a man about to be shot, jaw broken, nose streaming with blood.

Metaphorically, of course.

For any other man, or woman, the Mexican wave Mason wrestles in this short, with drone and land recording his moves, would be a short cut to body wounds and frustration.

Mason is different.

His heart bursts when he sees those rocks pointed at his head, fears nothing when his skin is punctured, and to die doing such a thing would be a courageous thing and therefore wouldn’t be a sad death.

Sharks are different, says Mason, “they tear a piece out of you, and they’re off. And you never know where they’re coming from or how and why.”


Jackson Dorian’s latest short film, set in Oaxaca, Mexico, and starring Tom Curren is funny, full of wonder and “suggests a post-pandemic tone!”

Magic lurks around every corner if you leave yourself available to it.

This week, Jackson Dorian, who is the fourteen-year-old son of the man who pulled BJ Penn from certain death at a wavepool, brings his cache of turns to Oaxaca, Mexico.

Dorian balances a virtuosic sensibility and a naturally cheeky disposition to captivating effect, his mix contrasting with the serious jazz-esque instrumentalist Tom Curren, a three-time world champion and the son of homeless big-wave pioneer and shaper Pat Curren. 

The climax feels a little undernourished but Dorian, and Curren, are so genial and is directed at such a gallop by daddy Shane that you can forgive it almost anything.