Jamie O’Brien stars in “He’s got the bod, but his brains are bad news!”

Watch flame-haired king of Pipeline Jamie O'Brien enslave famous left in kayak while endangering non-surfing pal…

Do you have a dangerous friend? Would you like one?

No, no, not a frenemy, life is too short for fake butter or fake people, as they say, but a pal who’ll toss you to the lions for kicks and, who likes, very much, to see you get pounded.

Jamie O’Brien, whose two-month old YouTube vlog has already posted a dozen episodes, is a Dangerous Friend.

You’ll remember Sean “Poopies” McInerney, Jamie’s crazy sidekick in the Who is JOB series, who celebrated the surprise arrival of a big swell by paddling out, with Jamie, on an eight-foot Catch Surf board, both in speedos.

“It was eight-to-10-feet, coming from Second Reef and just… flexing… right on the reef. I got so pounded it was gnarly. I got pinned against the reef. It wouldn’t let me up. I got pounded every time I tried to get to the surface. I’m so afraid of big waves,” said Poopies. “He puts a flotation vest on me and says, ‘Poops, dude, this thing will let you pop to the top no matter what’.”

In this episode, Jamie throws his snow/skate pal Skummy Diener into the heated pan, kayaking (admittedly summer swell) Pipe and winching hell out of Skummy on the sand.

It’s beautiful, if cruel.

Pals 4 life etc.

Creed McTaggart and Griffinn Colapinto in “Harmonic Ecstasy and the heroism of discovery!”

The Billabong team, which includes the remarkable Griff Colapinto, light up Orange County in promo vid…

And, here, two minutes of Griffin Colapinto, Creed McTaggart, Shaun Manners and Tyler Warren in California’s gorgeous afternoon light, albeit wrapped in a “dramatic warm” filter and albeit in that state’s filth-ridden lands, its revolt against federal rule etc.

It ain’t high-cinema but it’s a fine enough distraction and safe for work .

Jamie O’Brien stars in: “Oh…my…god, Becky!”

Jamie O cheats death again in new episode of YouTube series!

Cast your mind back three weeks and you’ll remember Jamie O’Brien’s brush with the grim reaper at little Waikiki.

Fooling around in town as part of his new YouTube vlog, Jamie was examining an interesting rock on a breakwall and “stating the obvious,” says Jamie, “I turned my back on the ocean. Honestly, I had put my hand up in front of my face at the last second and I face-planted into my hand. It almost knocked me out just hitting my hand. I almost died at one-foot Waikiki. I almost died at one-foot Waikiki. Frick. I got so lucky.”

Relive that here! 

That old adage about lightening never striking twice in the same spot?

In Jamie’s new episode, Deadly Cliff Drops and Heavy Shorebreaks, the cocky red-head who carries the stomach of a man who employs servants, acid drops off a rock wall and face-plants the fibreglass housing of his water cameraman.

“Are you trying to kill me,” he asks the photographer, who is clearly ragged by the event, holding his master’s hand and collecting his surfboard.

“Not at all,” he says.

“I almost knocked myself out…again,” says Jamie.

The eleven-minute episode has the freewheeling vibe of a single’s night at a swinger’s club. No doors are closed and everyone digs on what everyone is doing. No barriers.

Ryan Hipwood: “This son-of-bitch wave almost took my life!”

"The most dangerous wave in the world! Seriously, it'll kill you!" and so on…

Near drowning is sorta Ryan Hipwood’s thing. The Gold Coast surfer who says he wasn’t exactly born to surf big waves (“I was shit-scared as a kid,” he says) but pushed himself over the ledge enough times to gain an affinity with insane reefs, has almost drowned at Pipeline and at The Right in south-west Australia.

In this two-minute short, Hipwood revisits The Right albeit with trepidation.

‘The ocean just swallows you… so big and so much water…I knew I had to face it again. I wanted to face it again.”

Watch: Nathan Florence Get up to his turtle-neck in a homicidal Nias tube!

Them Florence boys…

Nathan Florence got himself into the nosebleed section at Nias during the much vaunted, and justifiably so as it turned out, recent Indonesia swell.

This forty-four-second clips shows the middle brother of the famous Florence cabal hitting the 45-miles-an-hour speed limit within seconds of take off.

Of course, Nathan ain’t just about surfing. He’s also the most well-read surfer west of Kelly Slater.

Here are his ten favourite books.


This was the first book I ever read and it’s what really turned me onto reading.  Four kids in wartime Britain get sent to live in the countryside so the Stukas don’t get ’em in London. These  kids explore the house and discover they can enter a magical world called Narnia through a wardrobe. The killing of Aslan sure gave me the yips. But, then, ah yes, the plot thickens…

2. THE TALISMAN by Stephen King

I’ve read it twice and its still one of my favourites. It’s about a 12-year-old kid who flips into another reality and goes on this crazy adventure so can save his ma who’s dying of cancer.


This is the most creative series of books I’ve ever read because every one of his other books has a little part of the other in it. It’s all about a gunslinger called Roland Deschain searching for “a man in black.” And, he’s a gunslinger, but it ain’t the Wild West but a kind of parallel universe.

4. THE EGYPTIAN by Mika Waltari

This was first published in Finnish and it was deciphered from from ancient scrolls. It’s the autobiography of a guy’s life in ancient Egypt. Eight hundred pages and ain’t a page where your eyes glaze over.


Here’s a book, originally in French, about a German conscript soldier fighting the wild Russkis in World War II. Read about the unbelievable cold, the viciousness of the Russkis and the endless cycle of horrible violence. The best war book I’ve ever read.

6. A GAME OF THRONES series by George RR Martin 

I’ve read all five of the first series and I like ’em because they keep you guessing the whole time and, always, somehow, they continue to baffle  you. Man, it’s hard to explain this twisted, radical series.

7. THE RED BADGE OF COURAGE by Stephen Crane

This book set in the American Civil War is about something we can all relate to, or at least in surfing. It’s about overcoming your fear and pushing your own limits, although, yeah, surfing is a lot less dangerous then war and especially this particularly nasty one.


I read this in, like, the sixth grade and was so hooked I couldn’t put it down for a week. Then, man, I ended up so depressed cause the dog, that beautiful ol coonhound, died in the end. Yikes! Sorry bout the plot spoiler!


This is by far the craziest non-fiction that I ever read. I think it’s why I liked it so much. It’s about a guy that had been in and out of prisons and institutions since he was 10, wound up in drug dealing, robbing banks etc. He’s, like, the toughest human ever.

10. ANYTHING by Charles Bukowski

I got psyched on all of Chuckie’s books  because he would just write about all his chicks he was getting while being an alcoholic writer living in shitty little apartments.