Surf prodigy godson of Kelly Slater stars
in Mexican-themed film described as a “savage, breezy, occasionally
obscene and sometimes poignant mix of laughs and surfing!”
By Derek Rielly
Jackie Dorian employs his razzle dazzle on Oaxaca’s
famous sand-bottom points!
In this fourteen-minute featurette from Jackson Dorian,
the sixteen-year-old son of Shane Dorian and godson of literal God
Kelly Slater, we find the preternaturally talented kid
employing his razzle dazzle on Oaxaca’s famous sand-bottom
points.
Many highlights, too many to mention as per all of Jackie’s
edits, but it’s the chemistry with the noted board collector and
stylish obese shredder Uncle Buggs that is perfect; Jackie, a
little dynamo, Buggs, perhaps three times his volume, drawing
Curren-esque lines.
And, some of the roll-ins Jackie gets at the five-and-a-half
minute mark, ooowee-oo etc.
Stylistically, this short is like Jackie himself: bold, quick
and effortlessly entertaining.
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The story of a wounded bird that didn’t know
where to beat its wings, an immutable sadness masked by
vivacity.
Watch Lisa Andersen biopic “Trouble” for
free, “Raging and fighting and surfing like a gorgeous
disaster!”
By Derek Rielly
“She's the first woman to cross over into surfing
celebrityhood and achieve a dominance that made the pig dudes shut
up and take notice."
Six years ago, Chas Smith was commissioned by clothing
giant Roxy to create a documentary on the four-time world champ
Lisa Andersen, the gal whose surfing made most male
shredders look they were using orthopaedic aids.
It wasn’t an easy ride for the Cardiff-based writer and
director, trawling through hours of ex-boyfriend Dave Parmenter’s
videos of the pair, mowing through editors, navigating the
conflicting approaches of his v Roxy’s, deadlines that existed in
only an ephemeral form, Smith getting his nourishment almost
entirely from soft drinks, and a budget that quickly evaporated as
Smith spent American dollars as if it were Italian lire.
The result, “Trouble”, surprised the hell out of me, the story
of a wounded bird that didn’t know where to beat its wings, an
immutable sadness masked by vivacity.
“She’s the first woman to cross over into surfing celebrityhood
and achieve a dominance that made the pig dudes shut up and take
notice,” wrote Outside magazine in 1996.
As Chas tells it,
“She lived on the beach and in her car before being taken in by
an abusive local surfboard shaper. She was, in fact, often abused
in relationships, running away time and again when things got too
bad. Or when she felt trapped. Or when the system threw up
barriers.
“In the water, she was something else entirely, raging and
fighting and surfing like a gorgeous disaster but could never quite
put it all together, competitively, until career suicide presented
itself in the form of an unexpected pregnancy. Over objections and
common sense, she decided to have the child and in so doing
magically broke through and achieved her dream of becoming a
champ.
“Trouble follows Lisa on her all too human journey. Surf is a
beautiful backdrop but the real story is the epic poem of her life.
It is the struggles, abuse, pain and joy. It is the story of a
modern, self-made American woman.”
To watch, it used to cost five bucks to rent. Now, free!
What fun, boys.
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Skeleton Bay, as you know, was brokered
to the world by computer nerd Brian Gable in 2007.
Surfer rides 2.5 km-long tube in west
Africa; films groundbreaking event on POV camera!
By Derek Rielly
“Logging late-night hours online, I studied the the
terrain, bathymetry, people, marine life, weather-patterns, the
cost, travel, logistics…"
In this compelling video, see the German-Portuguese
shredder Nikolaus von Rupp get barrelled for roughly two-and-a-half
clicks at Namibia’s famous Skeleton Bay, which is roughly
25 kms south of the town of Swakopmund.
Von Rupp, who is thirty two, cannot live without the
transcendence of tube riding, a place where he can lose his ego for
a moment, the indispensable elevator that raises his phallus to its
fullest height.
Skeleton Bay, as you know, was brokered to the world by a
magazine and a computer nerd in 2007.
The Google Earth challenge was a Surfing magazine initiative to
shoot a little out of the box, readers using the then new Google
Earth tech to discover secret waves.
Deal was, you tell the mag, they let you join a photo shoot to
the joint.
Brian Gable, an IT specialist, was a runner-up to the contest in
2007 (a wave in Western Sahara was chosen though no trip was
made).
His loss drove him nuts.
“From that moment, I committed to nothing else,” Gable wrote.
“Logging some serious late-night hours online, I focused on
studying the country, the terrain and bathymetry, the people, the
marine life, weather-patterns, the cost, travel, logistics, etc. I
corresponded with locals halfway around the world. Obsessed and
possessed, I selfishly put personal and professional duties aside
and spent my days formulating the ultimate package for the ultimate
magazine surf trip. To me, it wasn’t just a free adventure for
myself. It was a chance to prove that the gem I found not only
stood up to every other world-class setup, but was on the very
short list at the top. Then, on Wednesday, Sep 19, 2007 at 10:03
AM, I got the call. First prize, the Indians take the pennant, the
whole freakin’ enchilada!”
Skeleton Bay, of course, is now a photo studio, Von Rupp just
one of dozens of pro’s squeezing its sides.
Better than snorting crystal blow, as old-timers used to
say.
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Smartest surfer alive!
World’s smartest surfer Nathan Florence
reveals mind-blowingly simple hack for surfing one of Australia’s
best waves without crowds!
By Derek Rielly
“It’s literally firing but since Surfline didn’t
say we can’t go out there!”
Nathan Florence, the Prince Harry lookalike brother of
surf Olympian John John Florence and who is rightly lauded as the
“world’s smartest surfer”, has revealed his mind-blowingly
simple hack for surfing The Box empty.
The Box, of course, is a “slab” wave just north of Margaret
River Main Break, a vastly inferior wave to The Box but where a
tour event is held every year.
In the latest instalment of his excellent YouTube series,
Florence explains the key to surfing The Box without the flotilla
of media in the channel and its accompanying flotsam in the
lineup.
“This funny thing happens,” says the extremely intelligent and
capable Florence, “…if no one is out at The Box no one will paddle
out. As soon as people paddle out the whole CT jumps on it. This
morning we waited… everyone goes to the other surf spots, The Box
is empty none is out, it’s pumping, spitting barrels…now that we
waited everyone is committed to the other spots.”
Here, Florence, who is twenty-nine, takes the viewer into his
confidence.
“Tactical. It’s literally firing. If they would just look at it
they would see spitting barrels but since it’s not forecasted…”
And, here, the viper’s tongue, oozing with sarcasm, drops to a
whisper for added effect,
“Surfline didn’t say (so) we can’t go out there!”
Essential-ish.
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I once asked Luke Davis, pictured here in
Morocco, Do you surf as you think? Cock-sure and drunk with sudden
success? “It reflects my personality, confident, but not overly
confident. I don’t look aggressive when I surf.”
Surfers flock to wild decades-old design
that promises to destroy your ability to ride a normal surfboard
ever again, “If loving you is wrong I don’t want to be right!”
By Derek Rielly
The ionic design by San Clemente's Commie-hating
soccer-mom lookalike Matt Biolos, the 5'5" round nose fish!
I loved the Lost fish with its aggression and its warmth
and its volatility when I first tasted its meat in
1999.
Matt Biolos’ board, the round-nose-fish, was different from the
prevailing wisdom of the time, even among the early fishes. The
5’5″, as ridden by Chris Ward and Cory Lopez, turned a generation
on to the idea that a performance board could be kinda kooky
looking, a pointed nose but with a forward wide point and all
wrapped up with a regular pulled-in 14″ tail (and radically thin at
2 1/16″). It’s a combination that, even now, some shapers don’t
get, sending devils out on those thick and straight-railed cruise
ships with 20″ tails.
“Before the RNF, I was that shaper guy who paints rad stuff and
makes surf party vids,” Matt Biolos told me. “It afforded me the
opportunity to get good surfers on my boards without them really
needing to risk using them in contests. It bought me time as a
designer to learn to get better. It made it possible for me to
travel the world as a shaper. Once the design hit, I was
immediately getting calls from around the world to come shape.
Europe, South Africa, Australia, it all happened after the
RNF.”
Of course, once you ride one you can never get off ‘em such is
the addiction of easy speed, glide, turning, its ability to
masquerade a lifetime of bad habits while developing new ones
that’ll keep you off regular boards forever.
In episode four of Lost’s six-part video series that documents
the controversial design, once described as an “evil clown that
kills children” watch Kolohe Andino, Michael Rodrigues, Coco Ho,
Kirra Pink and Luke Davis along with the CT tour’s late bloomer
Yago Dora “carving, twisting, slipping sliding, spinning, driving,
gouging and gliding-around sunny summer time California.”