Swinging tubes with location of dreamboat wave
kindly revealed at end!
This is a two-and-a-bit edit that won’t mutilate your
work day and is a joy ride you’ll thrill to.
It features the Australian surfers Creed McTaggart, Wade Goodall
and Ellis Ericson (who didn’t make the headline for space reasons)
vigorously dissecting a wave in northern NSW, where all three now
live.
Did you know of Australia’s great surf migration? All roads lead
to Byron Bay and surrounds. Wade recently sold his house in nearby
Bangolow as he searches for even more deluxe digs and
Creed followed the songlines from his home in Western
Australia.
When he isn’t surfing or performing in his band
Wash, Creed makes an excellent interview.
On coaches: Coaches fucking piss me off. I did
four ISAs and I just fucking hated it. It’s such a weird vibe. So
intense. It didn’t feel real. It felt fake and I hate coaches
telling you where to put your arms when you surf. I’ve always want
to surf how I wanted to surf.
On driving cars: It’s really scary for me. I feel
like I don’t belong on the road. If there’s someone tailgating me,
for example, I freak out and speed up. I’m semi-dyslexic and I
always to forget to fucking turn on the lights and the windscreen
wipers. All that pressure! Once you’re on the road, you’re part of
a family, a whole family, but no one likes you and everyone gets
road rage. It’s this one giant seething organism trying to get to
this place and that place and I’m stuck in the middle cutting
people off, totally oblivious, just trying to learn. I just fuck
with my own head, really. It’s probably not like that. I get really
nervous and anxious.
On heaven: There’s a heaven I enjoy by myself
where I’m lying in bed and it’s thunder storming outside and I’m
all cosy and I’m reading a book or listening to music and there’ll
be moments where I think, fuck this is heaven. And then there’s the
other type of heaven with your friends, having beers in the
afternoon. I get a lot of flashes of heaven. More heavens than
hell, I try to make it.
Now hit play…