Kelly Slater and Jackson Dorian subdue Soup Bowl in Barbados!

Teen heartthrob Jackson Dorian and godfather Kelly Slater display their wild skills in epic Barbados session, “Two extraordinarily gifted artists pool their resources to turn a routine surf into a memorable work of art!”

Derek Rielly

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It was here I discovered twerking, where local women crouch in front of their mark, quivering glutes devouring his dingus like a wolf.

In this edit from the channel of Jackson Dorian, the sixteen-year-old boy of Shane Dorian and godson to Kelly Slater, we find Jackie and his god-daddy enjoying several memorable days at the premier wave on the island of Barbados, a stunning righthander near the town of Bathsheba.

I visited Bathsheba in the early two-thousands, staying in a house with a good vantage point over the wave, and enjoyed its spectacular fruit over the course of a week-long swell, thrilling to the chip-shot-into-the-tube takeoff and a wall long enough to wind one’s handle vigorously.

At nightfall, we would drive into town for dinner and dancing and it was here I discovered an early version of twerking, where local women with red lips and white teeth, brilliantly dressed, crouched in front of their mark, quivering glutes devouring his dingus like a wolf.

The wave will be familiar to surfers of forty and over, of course, for it was here in 2005, maybe 2006, Slater was filmed in perfect six-to-eight-foot trenches for the Taylor Steele movie Sipping Jetstreams, although I think it was Dustin Humphrey’s stills, captured on a Hasselblad medium-format camera and run as a cover on Transworld Surf, that solidified the legend.

Slater said if he could re-live one day of his life over and over again forever, that session would be it.

What a thrill to see little Jackie, who was born the year Sipping Jetstreams was released, assaulting the same wave with the almost fifty-one-year-old Slater.

Wipeouts add to the magnificent spectacle!

A new friendship blooms at Waimea Bay as John John Florence introduces world title contender Jack Robinson to thirty-foot waves, “You’ve got to be the sexiest surfer, pound for pound, anywhere!”

Derek Rielly

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A magnificent and mesmerising spectacle!


In this superb edit from the YouTube channel of John John Florence, we see its master help the Australian Jack Robinson make his debut at twenty-to-thirty-foot Waimea Bay.

The two-time champ Florence, who is thirty, and Robinson, twenty-five and doomed never to win a world title so long as Filipe Toledo is alive and Finals Day is held at Lower Trestles, join the honking caravan of surfers at the Bay, uncoiling a pair of Pyzels equipped with full-deck traction for the occasion.

While the pack dances in wasteful circles, John John plunges his Pyzel to the hilt, taking off deep and, occasionally, straight into the barrel.

The elfin-faced Robinson, beaming beneath a coil of honey hair, is happy just to shuck a few nickels and dimes with his new friend.

Wipeouts add to the magnificent spectacle.

Essential.

The late-thirties are a wonderful age for a man who keeps his brain and body trim.

World’s most famous redhead surfs and snowboards on the same day…in tropical Hawaii, “You got imagination and you got…you got feel!”

Derek Rielly

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The generous comic mouth laughs easily, but there is a lot of living and some pain printed in the eyes. 

The world’s most famous redhead Jamie O’Brien, the almost-forty-year-old vlogger from Pipeline Beach on Oahu, has completed the fabled surf and snowboard in one day following a trip to the reefs of Hawaii’s Big Island and the slopes of the volcano Mauna Kea.

The unlikely looking O’Brien, famous for his slowly disappearing crown of salmon-coloured hair, body with the pallid meat smoothly trowelled on and cheeks like painted peaches, assaults the task of surfing and snowboarding with excessive vigour.

It ain’t easy, but O’Brien has a positive genius for making things happen, a continuing reproof to those in the surf industry who said he’d never make it etc.

The generous comic mouth laughs easily, but there is a lot of living and some pain printed in the eyes.

The Big Island, of course, is one of the few places on earth where you can be surfing in trunks in the morning and gasping for breath at 13,500 feet, fingernails turning blue, a few hours later.

Carrot-haired O'Brien points his eight-foot foam surfboard into the maw of the crowd! It's what you gotta do if you wanna catch a wave at The Pipe!

Flame-haired king of Pipeline reveals insane overcrowding of world’s most famous wave with wild POV footage,”Crazy! This is crazy!”

Derek Rielly

By

See the carrot-topped master chase the rarest prize in all of surfing, a wave at The Pipe!

Jamie O’Brien is a radiant and robust half-Australian, half-American who can be counted among the best half-a-dozen surfers currently surfing Pipeline, a difficult hard-breaking lefthand wave near the Oahu town of Haleiwa.

In this compelling POV edit from the almost forty year old whose quasi-modernist bungalow squats a dozen footsteps from the sandy path to Pipeline, O’Brien paddles out on a hall-of-fame day, the tropical sun a blazing citrus orange, and we are privy to his conversations with Mason Ho, Koa Rothman, Nathan Florence and so on, as well as his manoeuvrings to catch one of the rarest prizes in all of surfing.

Essential.



Pipe Master Jamie O a split-second before being sent to his almost doom!

Chaos and mass confusion at Waimea Bay as man-made river wave almost claims life of Pipe Master Jamie O’Brien, “Gnarliest experience ever… did you see me almost die? I got sucked into the vortex of all vortexes!”

Derek Rielly

By

And, he ain’t the only one the damned novelty wave almost claims.

This might make a few of the meaner sons of bitches here deposit their watermelon seeds onto the ground, but there’s a real good case to be made that Jamie O’Brien, the carrot-topped king of Pipeline, is the most popular surfer in the world.

A YouTube channel with almost one-million subscribers, a whole damn army of fans in every corner of the world, oh it’s as plain as the shining sun.

Therefore, when the famous Waimea River became swollen like never before following wild rains and locals opened it up to the Bay to create biggest rivermouth waves ever seen there and Jamie tried to ride it only to be sucked out to sea and returned barely alive, gasping, claiming he’d almost died, well, what a tragedy that would’ve been for surfing.

You would’ve seen footage of the event three days ago on Mason Ho’s channel, and it ain’t bad, although Mason fares poorly compared to Jamie, but it don’t snatch the high drama of the day.

Here, we see the angry river as it roars through the valley, we see the small channel dug that creates the impetus for the whole thing to open up and create the wildest rivermouth y’ever seen.

And we see Jamie, who is mobbed by fans the minute he arrives in the carpark, pawing his way up the beach like a wretched sailor after a terrible quarter of an hour battling a ten-foot shorebreak and twenty-knot currents.

“Gnarliest experience ever… did you see me almost die? I sucked into the vortex of all vortexes!”

And, he ain’t the only one the damned novelty wave almost claims.

Essential.

Photo: Steve Sherman/@tsherms
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