Here, a trip to Teahupoo in the US summer of 2011 with
John John and his bothers, Nathan and Ivan, and the Maui
jibber-and-big-waver Albee Layer.
It is instructive to watch, because almost a decade later,
there’s still only a few of his tour peers who can, like John,
stand there in the pulpit chanting amen.
Can you imagine how John was feeling, in his convalescence back
home on the North Shore, watching the best waves at a contest there
since 2014?
Oh he must be like a bored cat in a cage, looking at clothes in
catalogues and gazing out the front window, his hair slowly turning
red…
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Come ride the Namibian rickshaw!
Watch: Breasts, youth, fertility and the
overwhelming power of six-to-ten-foot Skeleton Bay!
In his latest vlog, Brett Barley, a gifted surfer and
genial YouTube host, takes the viewer on a comprehensive tour, in
and out of the water, of Namibia’s Skeleton Bay.
We begin in New York, although Brett has flown from North
Carolina, wind our way to Walvis Bay, Namibia, hire a
four-wheel-drive, rescue a seal from the graveyard and, eventually,
join Skeleton Bay’s circus act along with various noted surfers
from South Africa, the USA and so on.
It gets big.
Six-to-eight, maybe bigger.
It’s like a fish stew of sand and surfboards, a green batter
enfolding the rider.
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Tour rookie and, likely, rookie of the year,
Seth Moniz, floats over perilous territory.
Watch Seth Moniz in: “Like an energetic
octopus shaking martinis!”
The sweetest puckering from soon-to-be WSL rookie
of the year…
Seth Moniz, the tour rookie and son of eighties
Hawaiian shredder Tony
Moniz, has loosed a short film that while not
breaking down the door, as they say, will certainly culminate in a
bruised shoulder.
When Seth surfs it’s as though tigers are loose inside his
apartment, a riot of crashing glass and overturned furniture. From
the much vaunted back-flip at Waco to the debris he leaves at
Pipeline, Seth carries the torch of his distant lineage and other
worldly specimens, Johnny-Boy, his Dad, the Ho’s, Dane Kealoha.
A delight to watch.
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I've yet to receive official confirmation from
Chris Cote but, for now, I'm calling this is a 540 oop.
Watch: Jack-Jack Robinson in “A wicked man
has a lustre all his own!”
Surfing so complete your eyes will glaze and you'll
sway on your legs as though you've been hit over the head with a
mallet…
I doubt any middle-aged body could stand up to the
incredibly violent gymnastics Jack-Jack Robinson performs
in this three-minute clip which was filmed around Australia’s
south-west coastline.
There are some performers, rare as blue butterflies, who carry
around their own lightning. It has nothing to do with the sponsor
stickers on their boards or how many contests they’ve won or how
many times they’ve surfed Pipeline, although all that helps.
I can imagine Mason Ho as a tent-show preacher,
talking on the glories and revelations of the tube. Mason, who will
turn thirty-one in three weeks and who is part-Chinese,
part-Hawaiian, part-Euro American, is filmed, here, in Bali, going
this way and that at Keramas and Uluwatu.
Mason has a very special magic, one that even Kelly Slater, who
makes a brief cameo at Keramas, cannot replicate.
As Kolohe Andino’s dad, Dino, once told me, “He’s hot-dogging as
big as Pipe breaks. He’s dragging his ass on 12-footers, slamming
his shoulder down on a bottom turn, and slaloming the whole side of
his body into the wave as he takes off on Second Reef. He’s got an
uncanny ability to ride the tube. He knows how to control his speed
and the size of the wave doesn’t matter. He’s not intimidated. He’s
slowing down when everyone else is running for the hills. He
connects with the wave, controls the wave. It’s always been
happening, but now he’s taken it to a whole other level. His
tube-riding ability is out of control. It’s stupid. John John is
really gnarly, but I don’t think he’s as fun looking as Mason’s
shucking and jiving. He looks down, looks back, does all that shit.
He’s paying tribute to his dad on every wave.”
In this five-minute film, which was made by his best friend Rory
Pringle, Mason casts his magic like a fishing line. And it’s a
spell no man or woman can resist.