What if Julian Wilson really does fail to
re-qualify? Is it the end of hope, of optimism?
“A love like that was a serious
illness, an illness from which you never entirely recover.”
–Charles Bukowski.
The path of the romantic often
ends in catastrophe. We’re always getting screwed. Mark
Anthony skewered himself and died in the Cleopatra’s arms, Romeo
Montague drank the poison and cooked his insides and, as we head to
the Pipeline, Julian Wilson seems next in line to sacrifice himself
on the altar of romance.
There’s something decidedly
Shakespearian about Mr Wilson, as if the wonderfully queer sonnets
were written just for him. But something’s afoot; our very own Sir
Galahad isn’t at the top where he so obviously belongs.
Could it be… love?
Julian’s Instagram is a shrine to
his girlfriend. Whimsy models and surfing success don’t necessarily
go hand in hand. Ask Kelly. Could it be that with every crooning
post. “One last amazing dinner before we said our goodbyes
for a couple weeks. Sad times but already can’t wait to see you.
XxxX” – Julian’s rivals smell blood. Medina ain’t loving out on the
gram, he’s taking moody selfies, giving nothing away. They say
charity starts at home, well, so does bloodthirsty competitiveness.
Living in Bondi Beach and hanging with the bub does not a world
champion make.
Julian needs to win Pipe to take control
of his destiny and ensure his place on the 2015 dream tour; if not
he leaves his fate in the hands of the gods. On paper Julian Wilson
is an easy guy to dislike. He’s unfathomably handsome, gets
paid a million dollars-plus a year to go surfing, has a nice
car/house/girlfriend.
So, why is it that the thought of Julian
falling off tour pains me so? It is this dear reader: If Julian
Wilson can’t succeed in this game of life, can’t have everything
his heart desires, then what hope is there for the rest of us?
My own special relationship with Julian Wilson began with
Young Guns 3. The nostalgic wave that washed over me while
re-watching it on YouTube was almost too much to
bear. It was the popping
of a myriad of personal cherries: Keramas, INXS, alley oops –
and all punctuated by this beautiful Aryan boy.
“If only,” I thought.
“Don’t change for you, don’t change a thing for me.”
But things have changed dear Jules. You’re not the same sparkly
eyed, carefree boy you once were, and neither are the rest of the
Young Guns for that matter.
Such hope, such promise among the Guns but alas, Reynolds is
disinterested, Julian is about to get booted off tour, Flores is
also getting booted off tour, poor old Gaz Parks is washing windows
in Byron (but still ripping), Marzo’s sponsored by Carve eyewear –
the horror! – and sensei Slater has headed off into the Outer
Known.
Like my optimism, the Young
Guns got bloated and died. If that isn’t a metaphor for the
shattered dreams of adolescence then I don’t know what is. If
Julian falls, we all fall. It is the end of hope.
Julian had a moment with Rosy Hodge in
Portugal where he came clean about how upset he was with his
current predicament. He said that he needs to “man up” and
make some heats at the Pipeline. What a wonderfully
succinct phrase.
One thing that’s for sure is that
Julian’s surfing is a current as ever. His latest edit from
Lakey Peak (Dusty is that you? Welcome home!) really hammers home
the radical functionality of his surfing. His technique and flow
and speed through transitions are really something to take note
of.
As we head to Hawaii the game is clear. To be a true champ means
you must be a single-minded prick. It is all consuming and will
cost you friendships and relationships.
But I’m not going anywhere Julian.
If you can’t do it for yourself, or your Juliet, or your 242,711
Instagram followers, then do it for me.
We need this.
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…yeah, that's Jan-Michael Vincent in the white
trunks as Matt Johnson in the movie Big Wednesday (1978). He ain't
so pretty now.
Surf Movie Icon Loses Leg to Booze, Pills
and Brawlin’
By Derek Rielly
Jan-Michael Vincent used to be the hottest surfer
on earth. Then the good times got him…
There was a time in that belle epoch, late-seventies til
late eighties, when any man, woman or sophisticated
animal, would’ve thrown their gates open to the American actor
Jan-Michael Vincent. A golden ball of muscle and flaxen hair and
cheekbones that were as sharp as birds.
Bite into my delicate flesh, you would’ve begged, as
your heart palpitated and your knees quivered.
JMJ dazzled surfers in the John Milius movie Big
Wednesday where he played Matt Johnson, the gun surfer in a
small Californian town who hangs on to his best-surfer status long
after the rest of the town, and the world, has moved on.
Johnson becomes the town drunks and only redeems himself on the
day (a Wednesday!) when the biggest swell in his life arrives.
Watch it here!
Anyways, Vincent’s life since Big Wednesday has
mirrored Matt Johnson’s. Booze, drugs, brawls, car crashes, dumb
court cases and now, in an interview with the National
Enquirer, he tells how he had to get his leg amputated ’cause
of his years of self-poison. (Click here for the interview)
Gregory Harrison, who played master shaper Chandler in the film
North Shore (1987), wrote to Peter Townend, the ’76 world
champ and one of the surfing stunt doubles on Big
Wednesday, on Facebook this morning.
“Jan and I started at
nearly the same time in “the biz”, the early 70’s. Various choices
we’ve made over the years have dictated what kind of third act each
of us are having now. I toyed with the same temptations that Jan
did, but somehow pulled out of every tailspin before the crash. Not
sure why that is, but man, I’m so grateful I did.”
Ian Cairns was one of those Australians
who kicked open to the door to Hawaii in the winters of 74 through
76. He wrote: “Jan was a great guy and ultra fit. As we all get
older it’s a daily struggle to get off the couch and go surfing,
not drink the extra beer and step away from the table. Getting
older is not easy and seeing this is so sad.”
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Why I Just Love Morocco to Death!
By Derek Rielly
Noa Deane says the people are the best (Muslims! Of
course!), there's a city that's all blue and the waves spin for
miles!
And it’s late now, but not too late to be
promenading in the great square in Marrakesh. The air is warm,
balmy for February and the indigo sky is spangled with bright
stars. And here is Noa Deane, all black, including his normally
yellow hair, and from his seal-brown countenance gleam two rows of
pearly teeth.
Jay Davies, the other Australian with whom Noa is touring, is
dressed in tight-fighting wool jumper and jeans, and therefore
reveals his sinewy figure to all who gaze upon him, and all gaze,
especially the famously repressed Moroccan man.
Monkeys on chains, bent men selling so much of that famous
hashish that you vow never to smoke before lunch time every day but
you find yourself pecking at by nine, mint tea, dusty rugs, red
sunsets.
And Jay and Noa are good now, good now that Noa has recovered a
modicum of positivity after showering the gang with complaints for
days. And the sickness that felled everyone on the trip, except Noa
who beat it by staying high, has gone.
Now it’s time to buy bottles in night clubs and draw fingers
across skin that is clear and soft as velvet, with soft brown eyes
that seem to beg. Later, rhythmic clapping as you dance and
hammering on portals!
What a trip! Waves that ran for a mile; a house in the snow
ruined by drug-addicted hookers; murders; secret alcohol runs. Noa
says that he loves Morocco to death. And who wouldn’t! Oh, to be
cradled by the loveliest people in civilisation.
Now let’s shove that microphone into the talk to co-star of the
trip, Noa Deane…
DR: I want you to describe your experience in Morocco, a
kingdom I adore for its contradictory nature, for its repression
that makes even the tiny kinks a pleasure palace!
NOA: It was pretty fucking dry. It was so hot there and we kept
getting calls that the banks were ruined by the Hercules swell or
some shit that had hit earlier. We kept driving around, thinking we
were blowing it all the time that we ended up blowing our minds.
And now I look at the shots and there the best shots I’ve ever had.
So what was I worried about? Jay nearly punched me because I
was getting under his skin so bad, being so negative. He told me to
fucking shut the fuck up. Half an hour later we were sweet.
Can you describe this mood that enraged
Jay?
Oh fuck! I was trying to bail on the surf trip and go shoot
photos and he didn’t want to do it, really. He wanted to do that
lifestyle shit a couple of days later. The surf was doing my
fucking head in. I couldn’t deal with it anymore. I was, I wanna
get outta here, I fucking hate this same shit, it’ll be fucked,
let’s fuck off. And we left to go to Marrakesh and he was bummed
but then we got there he was fucking psyched. We had the best time
ever in the last five days. We went everywhere. Up in the
mountains. Driving eight hours to a new place every day and we’d
hang out at night and shit. It was the coolest thing.
Give me a little timeline on this trip…
Well, we went for two weeks and the first couple of days it was
fucking eight foot or 10 foot. Matt (O’Brien, the photographer) got
so sick he couldn’t get out of bed. Everyrbody got sick apart from
me. I got sick for an hour. I puked once and I was sweet. Matt was
sick for three days. He was fucked. Me and Jay surfed this point
and it was the most fucking pyscho-est thing ever. The wind was 100
knots and it was eight foot. I got the fucking craziest barrels,
the biggest cave. Shane (Fletcher, the filmer) was filming but the
wave was two kay’s long so we didn’t get it but I was still
psyched. We’d fucking catch waves for a million kilometres, step
off down the line after riding the wave for a minute then a car
would pick us up and drive us back up the point.
Anything adventurous happen in these difficult
conditions?
Jay got stuck in a rip and thought he was going to die. The wind
was blowing him out even further, half a kay out from the lineup.
You could go forever on these waves. It was like skiing. It was so
fucking wild. And I randomly saw Rasta and Ryan Burch out there. It
was fucking weird.
The name of the wave references an evil character in
fiction. Can you paint a picture for me of the
wave?
You pull up to this carpark in front of a wave called Boilers
and it’s up from that. It wedges off this thing and then it fucking
breaks. It’s longer than Snapper to Kirra. When it’s huge it breaks
out the back and and there’s a wedge way on the inside, a psycho
wedge beach. The next day when it got real big there were 20 waves
in a set and you could jump off your wave and catch the next one.
Fucking crazy, right? Matt couldn’t even shoot it. You might do
nothing for a hundred metres and then your window in front of the
photographers is done.
How was your personal ambience?
I was having a shocker. I kept getting drunk every night so I
wouldn’t get sick and then I stopped and got sick for 10 minutes. I
was in it from the start of the trip to the end. I didn’t have a
day off and I was so fucking cooked We started to surf out the
front of our place, then the long point, then this wedge place and
then we went down and surfed this Trestles-kinda wave. It looked
about four foot and it was eight foot. We got this acid shit in our
eyes when we paddled out and it felt like it was eating our eyes
away. There’s an acid dumping factory there, right there! So that
was fucked. I was paddling out and just like looking at Jay,
saying, what the fuck are we doing out here! We thought there were
ramps but we were swept into the beach. We tried to surf a little
right. Me and Jay would come in from these surfs blowing up at the
same time about how bad it was and Matt would be psyched. We were
still doing good shit but having fucking trouble landing shit. And
he was saying, this is epic!
Around this time I was going to Israel and you were so
on but then you pulled ’cause you heard, oowee, them Muslims hate
Jews and if I get an Israel stamp I ain’t getting in to
Morocco!
Apparently there’s a fuckload of Islamic countries that don’t
want to let a Jewish person in. I was super bummed.
What was the best thing you saw in Maroc?
The blue city called Chefchaouen. We drove in there at night
and when we woke up we walked up to the top of our terrace and
everything was blue. The road was blue. The houses were blue. The
whole thing’s blue! We went walking around and everything was
rendered and painted either light or dark blue. It was the weirdest
place I’d ever been to, in this random valley, six hours inland,
closer to the Med than the Atlantic and in this big fucking crater
hole.
What was the worst thing you
experienced?
We were walking through the streets and we had this Moroccan
surf guide and the government has a law that you’re not allowed to
be shown around by a Moroccan because they think you’ll get ripped
off, and we were walking down this super crowded street and this
super fucking gnarly undercover cop grabs him and runs off with
him. I couldn’t even remember where we were staying and suddenly
our guide was stolen by the police! We followed him back and told
’em that he was our friend and eventually they told him he could
go. He was so lucky! He would’ve been screwed if he’d been locked
up.
Marrakesh? Talk to me about it?
We were went there and me and and Jay smoked some hash and we
were so high we went and ate snails.
It’s a surprisingly delicious treat, a remnant of the
French influence.
They’re so sick. Like abalone, a little chicken-esque, too. Then
we went up and cruised on top of this rooftop bar and watched the
city. After that I went to a super club.
How super was the super club?
Fucking huge, man, it was psycho. I got pushed up against the
wall by four security guards. I was kinda drunk and didn’t know
what was happening but it turned out some sheik from Abu Dhabi had
arrived. I was in that club for a couple of hours then another
one.
Were you a dancing bear?
Kinda. You weren’t even allowed to go in unless you bought a
bottle. It’s gay but I bought one, anyway. I was hanging out with
some Moroccan chicks. They were brown-eyed and had brown hair.
Something weird happened but I can’t remember what it was.
What about Casablanca, an Islamic Paris on the Atlantic.
How was it for you?
We stayed there on the last night and didn’t do anything cool.
Maybe next time I’ll session on that place.
The hash is delicious, too, and even though I’m normally
opposed to it, and weed, on a number of grounds, I find myself
enjoying it in Morocco.
It’s fucked, huh! Hey, I’ve got a good story for ya! We went to
this place called Ifrane, an alpine snow town in the Atlas
mountains. The day before we were online picking a house to stay
out. There was this one that was real sweet but it was 200 euros
and I was, like, fuck that, that sounds too expensive for one
night. It would’ve been sweet once we’d split it up but, then,
fuck, we went to this other joint. It looked sick. Old school. It
fucking had a garden. Snow out the front. We turned the fireplace
on and everything started going downhill from there. Why are the
window’s boarded up? Jay goes to the toilet downstairs and sees all
these lipstick kisses on the back of the door. On the terrace there
was graffiti that said, you died tonight! And in the backyard there
was this creepy dude cutting up wood. All the mirrors were smashed.
One bed had all these weird stains. It was so sketchy. The lady who
rented us the house kept asking us if we wanted hookers. Are you
sure you don’t want hookers? And the lady pointed at one door and
said, don’t go in this door. It was wigging me out that we were
obviously staying at a haunted hookers house. I slept with my
fucking shoes on and shit and tried to green out but I totally
kooked it. But I got to sleep for one second and felt this thing
poke me in the back. Are you fucking kidding me? I started
stressing out for hours, trying to put alarm clocks on to wake
everybody up. By the time we got out, it was, fuck yeah, we
survived that. Fucking hell, that was the heaviest thing that’s
ever happened to me. I was so tripped out the next day but psyched
that it happened, just cause you got that story to tell.
You love beer, but it’s a muslim country. Did this
present problems?
It was kinda hard but we ‘d go to this supermarket down in
Agadir and just buy a bunch at once. I bought a shit ton one day,
four cartons, so we didn’t have to do it again. It sucks that you
can’t get a beer on the water. You just wanna grab a beer and watch
the surf and you can’t do it. You gotta creept into your place and
have a beer and fucking hide the can.
And tell me all about your airs! So much tweak! The
theatre!
It’s a style thing, the more tweaked out, the better style and
the better it is. Obviously, it’s harder to do, but I used to watch
Dane when I was a little kid and it was all I ever wanted to do.
And then when I saw Creed and he was doing it, I knew that was the
fucking titties. (Thom) Pringle used to do it too, indy grabs, and
put his crane arm over the head. It looked so sick. I think if you
do a big air and you bone it, it shows how passionate you are about
airs. It’s so much harder to bone it. You can do an air and not
bone and it land it all the time. Christian (Fletcher) used to do
it and he’s fucking sick.
There’s elements of ballet in your
airs
Yeah, there is, with the crane arm, with the legs tucked in.
What shall we call ’em?
Theatre airs?
A good theatrical air. Like airs flying across the stage. A Swan
Lake air!
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“You’re fired!” ASP lashes out
By Chas Smith
Star surf commentator sacked, maliciously, by the
Association of Surfing Professionals.
Paul Evans was affectionately known as the “Luscious
Limey” in surf commentator circles. His posh British
accent combined with quick wit and encyclopedic surf knowledge made
him a rising star in the ranks. And even though he was calling one
star WQS events in strange countries and girl’s junior pros in
lakes the consensus was that he would end up in the big
leagues.
One frightful, but beautiful late August week, however, his
career came to a stunning and inglorious end. He didn’t know at the
time but the Swatch Girls’ Pro, France would be his undoing.
Sitting next to Chas Smith in the booth, the two would laugh and
drink beer and call what Bethany Hamilton termed, “The best
commentated surf contest ever!!!” Chas mostly said rude things.
Paul mostly said intelligent things punctuated with just the right
amount of wit. It was as fun as it was funny.
Two months later he was gone. Banned. Well, not quite banned.
“It was more like a deselection of a persona non grata…” he told me
while eating an herb Provencal tartlet. “An email went out with a
list of commentators for women’s WCT in Portugal with my name on,
to which a reply came from someone at ASP saying, ‘Sorry, but we
can not use Paul Evan’s on the Women’s WCT. Please let him know?’ I
think I was more aghast at the apostrophe on Evan’s than anything
else. I am led to believe it had to do with guilt by association
with the evil, subversive Chas Smith…”
Now, in all seriousness, Paul really was far better than the ASP
deserved. And his sacking, or deselection, proves the organization
has lost its damned mind. It rewards anything that smacks, even
remotely, of good time/intelligence/semi-adequate understanding of
the English language with a swift kick to the curb. The powers that
be are taking a wonderful pursuit, surfing, and layering it so
thickly with bland bland boring bland in an attempt to what? Appeal
to sixty-something Bible-belters? Bring more investment? Steal the
“No Fun League” moniker from the NFL? Whatever the case, it is not
working. Numbers are down and money is drying up and WSL sounds
dumb. Multiple sources have told me that judges and commentators
have not been paid for months. It is bleak.
I suppose, though, at the end of the day, ASP Chief Strategy
Officer Graham Stapleberg is enjoying the fruits of his labor. If
you are too, let him know he is not alone! Email [email protected]
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Ask Pam Reynolds: Quick and Dirty (Now
animated!)
By Derek Rielly
Loneliness? The ailments of modern living? The
French bulldog owned by Dane Reynolds and Courtney Jaedtke
solves!
How can anyone resist the titanic pull of the
four-year-old French bulldog owned by the surfer Dane
Reynolds and his falconer and designer girlfriend Coutney
Jaedtke? Over the course of the last three months, Ask
Pam, an advice column that has covered topics as diverse as
the insignificance of life and the Solange-Jay-Z rift, has become a
much loved and much visited part of
BeachGrit.com.
At first, Pam’s answers were simple keystrokes. I’d send
Courtney the emails; she’d fire back Pam’s replies. Then
Pam wanted audio. And so we set-up a little soundcloud account
for Pam to upload her answers.
And, now, thanks to the computer skills of her master Dane
Reynolds, Pam has become… animated!
If you’d like to be included on Ask Pam, send an audio
file (voice memos on an iPhone works perfectly) and a photo of
y’self to either [email protected] or [email protected].
Now let’s toast episode one and celebrate our glorious futures
before they become our dim and dismal pasts!