Once relegated to the mists of time, our noble brothers are back!
I just posted a fine story about Marcus Mariota, Oregon Heisman winning quarterback, NFL star in waiting, not signing his rookie contract because he wants to surf (read here). But I was wrong. New information has come to light from Portland news beacon The Oregonian.
“…Mariota is a native of Hawaii, where surfing is a national sport. Mariota knows how to surf, but he has said he’s more of a body boarder. The report also explains why surfing would be good for Mariota in terms of muscle relaxation and rehabilitation. In addition, surfing can help Mariota unwind by allowing him to get away from the pressures of being the face of the Titans franchise.”
And there you have it. Body boarder. I have been made aware, very recently, of a sea-change happening in the boogie community mostly from following the Instagram account DickDraggers. (you should follow too) At first I thought the posts were just funny riffing…and maybe they are…but more often than not a total hipster shows up shooting the sandy curl. It is amazing. And with the Marcus Mariota news, I think true. Bodyboarding is officially back. If you start today, you can scoff at all the bandwagon jumpers that follow. I think it is a can’t miss opportunity. Now get that body on a boogie!
Hey Chas, just read your book, I wasn’t expecting much to be honest – while I like some of the stuff you wrote for Surfers Journal and this site, I hated almost everything you wrote for Surfing. But fuck you – you actually wrote a fucking great book – so good in fact that I will recommend it to non surfing friends. It reminded me a lot of Hunter S. Thompsons’s Hells Angles. And to think of all the hate mail I have send you over the years via Disqus – ah Bless! Excellent work, you have anything else in the pipeline?
Ohhhhhh Jimmy….I thank you. I’m sure almost everything I wrote for Surfing was, in fact, shit and the hate mail is always so much more fun than anything else. Except this. So thank you again. I am pulling my nails out trying to finish proposal for book 2. It’s focus has shifted a few times but I am finally zeroing in on its subject. I am sure I will write some self-congratulatory business as soon as I finish…..
Maybe they could be accessorised like a car from Mad Max? Dammit, surfing falls even further behind yet again.
Tune in, turn on, and drop knee.
Dougie body boards, i prefer wax on my belly not my feet
Chas: Gays have already been accepted in the NFL… (Not that they can get contracts)… hence — not news. More to the point: Not.
Chas, you don’t have to justify being a bodyboarder. If you want to ride a bodyboard that’s totally fine, you don’t need to write these posts to make yourself feel better.
Chas bodyboards?
I wish!
Oh how I wish I was that early an adopter of anything at all……. I surf standing on my feet like a total caveman. I am not chic.
I wish the dude in that pic had a man bun. But maybe that would be too perfect. Are bodyboards the new post-ironic Wavestorms?
post-post ironic with a firm eye on the future but a nod to the past. Think hang drag spins but wearing Versace.
Draggin dicks and slayin chicks.