How many times have you watched the video clip
of Mason Ho weaving that Pipeline monstrosity on Christmas day?
Seven times? Eleven? I will cop to a full fifteen and counting.
It is magnificent!
But how did that wave arrive? Where did it come from?
Now that Rory Parker and his toothless but so
angry liberalism has left the building we can tell
you.
Ivanka Trump!
The force of nature arrived in Hawaii for the holidays (her
husband is Jewish so we call them “holidays” not “Christmas”) and
Made Hawaii Great Again by bringing sexy beach lingerie along with
a heap of PUMPING SWELL!
Did you even know sexy beach lingerie existed?
And you still don’t believe me?
Watch this! Then watch it again and again and again and Make
Hawaii Great Again!
And do you remember the final day of the Pipeline Masters when…
who won again… won? It was slop! Piddly! Kanoa Igarashi! But that
is because Ivanka Trump wasn’t there yet.
Oh sure the angel’s father doesn’t believe in global warming and
soon half of the ocean will be floating with plastic and nuclear
holocaust etc. etc. etc. but look at this wave!
Look at this WAVE!
It is a wave I would suffer nuclear holocaust for!
Where the writer discovers the true meaning of
family…
“Bringing up a family should be an adventure,”
wrote the psychiatrist Milton R Saperstein, “not an anxious
discipline in which everybody is constantly graded for
performance.”
Two days before Christmas, I drove to Newcastle to
officially anoint my new favourite surfer with a documentary
for our Like Bitchin’ series. I
wasn’t going to see Craig Anderson, although he remains in my top
six, tentatively given his recent limited output, Ryan Callinan,
still top eleven despite discrediting my claim that he would win
rookie of the year, nor Matt Hoy, the very first surfer I
wrote a long-form profile on.
I’d become hooked on an eleven-year-old surfer/skater called
Sabre Norris, dynamite on a board as you’ll see, frontside airs in
surf, 540s on a ramp, but…even better… the owner of a punchy
and brilliantly clear mind.
You remember this interview from November, yes?
The interview drove the internet nuts. Millions of views.
Worldwide press.
In my story, I’d admitted that the kid had become my new
favourite surfer and Sabre responded with a hand-written
letter thanking me and inviting me to drive up and see ’em, “surf
all day” and wrap it all up with dinner at Crinitis, an Italian
restaurant famous for its crisp pizza bases and delicious
toppings.
Sabre lives with her two younger sisters and little brother in
an industrial estate called Thornton, thirty minutes drive inland
from Newcastle. Their dad, the Olympian swimmer Justin Norris who beat Michael
Phelps at the 2000 games, built a swim school out
there and the family live in a two-bedroom apartment attached to
the rear of the compound.
I meet ’em a little after dawn at a reef break called Cowrie
Hole, just around from Newcastle Harbour. Mum is Brooke. The four
children are Nazzie, who is six, Biggie (aka Coda), seven, Sockie
(aka Cerrus), nine, and Sabre. They’re waiting outside of
their black Volkswagen Caravelle, doors peeled open, wetsuits on,
Gath helmets and little DHD surfboards lined up.
But first things first! Before I came, the kids drew up a list
of ten questions about me that each answered. Could I mark ’em?
Could I select the winner?
What sort of car does he drive?
“An Audi!” screams Biggie, punching the air.
“Show me your muscles!”
I flex.
“Yes! Bigger than dad!”
(One of the questions: will he have bigger muscles than
dad? Later, I’ll see the Olympian and realise the child has
been more than a little generous.)
Biggest wave, favourite dinner, favourite dessert, and
so on. Pretty sure Biggie wins with four. Maybe it was Sockie.
We surf. The three kids drop synchronised chop-hops. Sabre
paddles hard and pushes Sockie into waves. Biggie is all elastic
muscle, growling and flexing, plunging down waves, as ripe as a
tropical mango. Sabre lines up the water filmer and brings her rail
to the correct distance from his wide-angle lens.
After the surf, Brooke gathers everyone to the van and,
from a cool box, reveals the ingredients for breakfast:
berries, bananas, strawberries, granola, vanilla yoghurt. Brooke
constructs each kid, each adult, a cafe-worthy bowl.
Earlier, Nazzie had asked me what my wife did for a living. I
said she designed clothes. She runs over and gives me a handbag
she’d spent the last couple of hours making with a letter inside.
Meanwhile, the kids peel off their wetsuits and reveal
suntan socks and gloves.
We drive back to the swim school. Sabre rides with me. Biggie’s
in the back.
“Don’t put your feet up on the seat,” Sabre warns
Biggie.
I tell ’em to do whatever they want.
Real early on, when I had sired a few kids, I realised I needed
to make a decision. Keep my car looking good and be a pain in the
ass or sacrifice the vehicle to the greater good of family harmony.
Childhood’s too short to have it smashed by an eggy parent fizzing
at sand in his car.
I explain this to Sabre, who, like the other three kids, has
been throwing non-stop questions at me ever since I arrived,
and she nods, smiles. I know she likes the theory, that kids are
more important than a car, when she repeats the theory to her
mum.
We talk about surfing in club contests (Biggie finished second,
Sockie, second, Sabre won the open women’s), about travelling to
Los Angeles, about eating, about surfing, about cars. Sabre wants a
Lambo. I tell her I want a Porsche Macan.
“Sell BeachGrit and you’ll be able to buy the Porsche
you want,” she says.
“Do you like Mitsubishis?” asks Biggie, so beautiful in his
innocence.
Cough. Yup. Cough.
We arrive at the swim school, a handsome, low-slung building
emblazoned with JUSTIN
NORRIS SWIM ACADEMY, close to the arterial
cord that connects Newcastle south and north. Eleven years
ago, the family borrowed a million bucks to finance the dream. Be
your own boss. Run your own school. No biz plan. A couple of
mentors. They made it work. Had four kids. Brooke wants another.
Nazzie records the pursuit of the fifth kid in an ongoing journal,
documenting each pregnancy test.
The apartment attached to the swim academy is small, maybe fifty
square metres. Two bedrooms. In the main, a mattress hits three of
the four walls. In the kid’s room, it’s bumper to bumper. Nazzie
against one wall, Sabre the other, Biggie and Sockie in the middle.
When Sabre gets scared at night (it’s real quiet out here after
dark) and she worries that someone’s gonna come in and kidnap ’em,
she wraps her arms around her sister to keep her safe.
The main room is an open-plan kitchen and living room. There is
one lounge chair, in red velvet, which I’m invited to occupy, rings
hanging from the roof that Justin uses to train with, half-a-dozen
guitars (the kids busk in Newcastle to raise cash) and the world’s
tiniest Christmas tree. The one-foot high tree made of green tinsel
delights the kids. It’s the first thing they show me. Then it’s the
presents. Each kid has dropped a year’s worth of
savings on a mountain of gifts. They grab ’em from the
parent’s room, whisper in my ear what each one is, then pile ’em up
around the tiny tree.
Time for a tour of the backyard. As we walk outside, I ask Sabre
in which park did she nail
the 540 two years ago?
“Park?” says Sabre.
We walk a corner to reveal a monster skate ramp the family had
bought second hand. They were surprised at its size, too, when it
arrived. Two smaller ramps are butted against it.
Sabre practised the 540 one hundred times a day for a month
until she nailed it. She knows exactly how many attempts because
after each one she’d line up a little rock to keep count.
Biggie’s debut on the ramp was less auspicious. He snapped his
femur. Today, for the camera, he re-enacts the break by laying on
the ground, leg bent under his back, weeping.
Under an umbrella on one of the smaller ramps, we interview
Sabre for the mini-doc. I ask her what she thinks about when she’s
riding waves and she riffs on the exquisite freedom she feels in
the surf. No parents telling you what to do, where to be, where to
go. An isolation that’s rare in a kid’s life. She’s good. More
constrained and thoughtful that the fireworks of the Ellen show or
the excited calls on Today.
We go back inside. We play guitar. Brooke makes toasted
sandwiches for lunch. Biggie and Nazzie urge me to go and swim in
the pools now all the classes have finished. Justin swings over
with a pair of goggles. When I’d arrived I’d asked for tips on
getting speed in the pool. Not every day you get to peel open the
brain of an Olympian.
I jump in. We work on my stroke, my head position, the way I
breathe. Justin videos me with his telephone and shows me how
crooked my left arm is and the awkward way I lift my head when I
breathe.
As I come in, Brooke thanks for listening to Justin. Sockie sits
in the red velvet chair and says, “This is the best day of my
life.”
I drive away with a sense of family I’ve never felt so
acutely. The kids are practical dreamers with that playful sense of
nature only a country childhood can give. There is no banality in
their lives. There are no video games. Here are children who are
inquisitive and blessed with curiosity, empty of any
television-infused cool. Open books. Books you want to read.
Sabre tells me she wants to retire from the world tour at
twenty-two, after two world titles, and have six kids. She wants to
build a series of inter-connected houses for her brothers and
sisters, mum and dad. Giant rooms for all the kids. She expects her
and Sockie will take turns being pregnant so there’s always a baby
around.
They never want to be apart. Family is family,
afterall.
Watch One Day in the Life of Sabre Norris in two
weeks!
Wow how rude was I yesterday? So Grinchy! So grouchy! So
totally depressive! That is NOT the BeachGrit way at all!
Rory Parker was a national treasure and we’ll miss him every day of
the week but while we’re missing him should one of us maybe qualify
for the World Championship Dream Tour?
Now that thought gives me wiiiings!
I read a piece this morning by Ben Mondy, who is very very
funny, on Grind, which still magically exists, about
Portugal’s Fred Morais.
This particular piece is not funny. It details the rigors of the
49 event qualifying series and how “difficult” it is etc. etc.
etc.
“The ‘QS is so damn hard and can take a toll on your
confidence,” Morais is quoted as saying. “You just have to keep
plugging away and competing the right way. In the end, if you are
good enough, you’ll get there.”
But I was thinking… what if you or I just entered every single
QS contest, flying non-stop from Huntington to Maroubra to Israel
to Hawaii to Queensland then we can stay in Australia for six
contest, to French Polynesia to Florida to Tahiti to Argentina to
Basque country to Martinique to Indonesia to Brazil to Indonesia to
Bali to South Africa to Japan to South Africa to Hawaii to South
Africa to Spain to Japan to Mexico to Chile to Japan to Portugal to
Huntington to Cornwall to France to Virginia Beach to France to
Spain to North Carolina to Portugal to Morocco to the Philippines
to Cascais to Costa Rica to Japan to Hawaii to Brazil to Taiwan to
Hawaii?
Oh our travels alone would lead to a global warming extinction
event but…. for sure we would qualify right? Maybe not year one but
probably year two. It is a joy of professional surfing that heats
are not won by the best surfer. There are just so many variables
from the ocean going flat to the judges being gently encouraged to
screaming in the ear of a young 15 year old that he is not good
enough.
Without fluff or lead in… many of you want to know why Rory
Parker left. I love BeachGrit, I really truly do,
and and I love that we are transparent, that our disagreements
play out in public, that we don’t hide, that we shoot first and
question later. I love that you demand that from us. I wanted Rory
to come back and answer why he left for himself.
The BeachGrit way!
But apparently he ain’t so I’ll explain as best as I can.
I don’t really know.
I mean, it had something to do with making fun of his
damned Cori podcast, something to do with not being included in
Derek and my conversations in the way he wanted to be, something
about not being valued the way he thought he should be valued and
not financially either just, I guess, emotionally.
All fine points but fucking hell. Not to peel the curtain back
unnecessarily but Dez and I are both heads down on this thing from
sunrise to sunset. It is very fun, fulfilling, etc. etc. but also
relentless and at the day’s close I barely have energy for my
own family. I definitely don’t have enough to soothe a manchild who
refuses to use a phone.
Some of you wanted me to coddle the sensitive artist but that’s
not what I do and Rory Parker didn’t deserve it. Maybe someday
he’ll be a great Pulitzer prize winning author but today he is
a quintessential millennial featuring a spark of talent but
loaded with unearned entitlement.
I’ll miss his absence for you but I won’t miss it for me.
Surfer gives up the ocean for the clubs and drugs
of Colorado.
(Editor’s note: The writer M. Andrew K is a
surfer who moved from the Californian coast to Denver, Colorado, to
find himself in the electronic dance music scene. It’s a story
with little to do with surf except to demonstrate, perhaps,
that once you take yourself away from the ocean you lose more than
just the sharpness of your skills, the sun on your skin, saltwater
in your hair. This is part one of a series.)
The end of all things.
As the four detective vehicles pulled up behind me I knew this
wasn’t a normal traffic stop. Samantha looked at me, with terror
writ on her face, and squeaked at me that she had never even been
in a traffic stop, let alone whatever this was. She asked me what
to do, how to deal with this unexpected wrinkle, and my simple
response was “keep your fucking mouth shut, let me the
talking.”
We had been driving to Red Rocks, planning on attending a
concert, carrying numerous different substances on us, both to sell
and for personal use. I, a thirty-one-year-old man from Alaska,
recently moved to Colorado, exploring the rapid downfall of a
midlife crisis. My passenger, Samantha, was 18, blonde, beautiful,
and would have more of an impact on my life than any person I had
met before. She had been dating my friend Steven when we met but
that fiasco was long since over. We spent every waking minute
together to the point that she had to move 4 hours from Denver to
try and get her life back on track. Being in my orbit during the
hurricane of my downfall wasn’t the most mentally safe place to be.
That morning we had made an expected stop at my sister Sally’s
house, a house it later turned out was under surveillance, in order
to receive a small number of necessary items. It was an unplanned
stop, an unneeded distraction, and what would end up being the
ultimate case of wrong place, wrong time.
As we left the house Sammy decided that she didn’t want to drive
anymore. We had been on something of an adventure that morning and
she had already driven the four hours from Gunnison to Denver. As I
merged on to the highway I was almost immediately pulled over by a
patrol car, followed by four unmarked detective vehicles, which
leads us back to where we started. At the time I was in possession
of a decent quantity of cocaine, ketamine, mushrooms, and molly.
Most of the amounts were personal use amounts, everything but the
ketamine was a Schedule I or II drug. The officer and detectives
proceeded to search our vehicle, finding nothing in the car. It
wasn’t until the routine search of me for weapons that they found
the sundry substances and I realized just how fucked I was about to
be. My only thought at that point was making sure that Sammy was
kept out of trouble, her car was kept out of imbound, and that this
wasn’t going to grow into a much bigger deal than it seemed like it
would be. As they put the cuffs on me I could only stop and reflect
on the road that had led me here, the decisions made, the
substances used, and the actions taken.
My life began in a small town in Alaska called Eagle River. A
wealthy town, a white town, and a town with a laughably low crime
rate. Not the kind of place that people like me come from. Not the
kind of place that heroin dealers spawn out of. You can’t go home
again, but you can tell the story of how home stopped beinng
home.
The Frozen North
I was born at 11:56pm on April 27th, 1984. The same day as
Ulysses Grant and more or less no one else. I was the result of too
much to drink in a small rail town, and the herculean effort of
seventeen hours of labor. My father never wanted children, my
mother was supposedly barren, and yet there I was, being born.
There I was, coming into the light. There I was, starting on a path
that would eventually lead me halfway around the world to Iraq and
then back to the States for a life of jail cells, parties, and the
most devastating and wonderful year and a half of my life. That was
still far down the road, though. For now it was enough to be born,
dragged screaming and yelling into existence. I didn’t ask to be
born, who the fuck was going to pay my bills?”