Learn "power dynamics"! Discover how to snatch
"untiring steel"
Question: have you ever wanted to take photos of real
men, capturing the ebullience and the confidence, the
intensity and untiring steel?
No? Me neither!
But, here, for the sake of self-examination and the case of tour
rookie Zeke Lau, let’s ask Justin Jay, whose photos have been
drizzled onto BeachGrit each day this week. Let’s talk “power
dynamic!”
I’m in total control, while they remain off balance. It’s a
power dynamic that some photographers relish and try to use to
their advantage. I don’t enjoy it at all, it leaves me with that
same jittery feeling in your gut you have while you watch a
comedian bomb.
“It’s always interesting taking photos of people that are
slightly nervous or uneasy in front of my camera,” says Justin.
“It’s ironic that someone can battle life-threatening waves, but
for a brief moment while they are in front of my lens, I’m in total
control, while they remain off balance. It’s a power dynamic that
some photographers relish and try to use to their advantage. I
don’t enjoy it at all, it leaves me with that same jittery feeling
in your gut you have while you watch a comedian bomb. I always try
my best to shoot subjects in their own environment, surrounded by
their friends etc. The light on the beach was gorgeous, so I asked
Zeke if we could leave the Quiksilver House and walk down on the
sand. It was a highly visible spot on the beach. Zeke could
definitely sense all the prying eyes from everyone on higher
ground. His anxiety was palpable and I felt almost guilty. The
sunset lighting was breathtaking, but three frames were all that I
needed. I knew that single expression I was seeing through my lens
was the entire range of emotions that I was going to be able
capture. I quickly nailed the shot and suggested that we head back
up to the house. Once we returned to the relative privacy of his
porch, his entire demeanour transformed. He was now back in his
element with Reef McIntosh, Kanoa Igarahsi and the rest of this
crew. I snagged another terrific shot of him laughing with the
boys. After I left Hawaii and returned to NYC, he sent me a thank
you note wishing me happy holidays and letting me know that
he thought the portrait we took was “mental.” A true class act.
After serving three decades as a stalwart ad writer for
numerous surf-inspired clothing companies, Nick Carroll,
brother to former world champion Tom Carroll, has reached the
pinnacle of journalism — the Pulitzer Prize.
The clearly excited Australian got the news via a Facebook
notification while competing in the Ironman competition, his 16th
this year. The announcement was even sweeter because it came on the
wordsmith’s 67th birthday.
“It’s an honour for sure, mate,” said Carroll while adjusting
his size extra small Billabong rashie. “I can’t wait to share the
news with the fellas at the next sibling rivalries support group.
Sean Slater, Jeb Bush, Cooper Manning and Owen and Luke Wilson’s
other brother, sorry I forgot his name, are going to be so
jealous.”
The winning piece, titled “Which Boardies Suit Your Body Type,”
appeared in the November 2016 issue of Australia’s Surfing
Life.
The surfing bug hit Nick hard when he moved to Newport in 1961,
and began surfing at age 11. But writing was his true
passion. Carroll, who now makes his bones covering the surf
culture beat for various companies that still murder trees to eke
out a living, started his career as an aspiring pro surfer but
soon, turned his attention writing fulltime. He had writing in his
blood, as his father, VJ Carroll, was a noted
journalist.
“It’s an honour for sure, mate,” said Carroll while adjusting
his size extra small Billabong rashie. “I can’t wait to share the
news with the fellas at the next sibling rivalries support group.
Sean Slater, Jeb Bush, Cooper Manning and Owen and Luke Wilson’s
other brother, sorry I forgot his name, are going to be so
jealous.”
Nick quickly climbed the ranks of surf writing and later became
associate editor at Tracks, then editor of American surf
magazine Surfing. His work has appeared
in People Magazine, Rolling Stone, Men’s
Journal and Kurungabaa.
Carroll is probably most proud of a story he wrote exposing
rampant drug use in surfing. Unfortunately, that story was never
published. It was cut for space to make room for the 2010 ASL
Wetsuit Buyer’s Guide.
Today, Nick enjoys patrolling the Internet like a one-man sharia
gang. There isn’t a social media platform, blog or website he
hasn’t commented on.
Congratulations Nick. You are a true gem that should be
cherished
Ever wanted to know the secrets behind Jordy's
fluid motion?
Isn’t this big oaf something to behold? At
six-foot-three and limber as a lynx, Jordy Smith defies
preconceptions of big men in sport. In this piece I will break down
the noteworthy components of his technique, both good and bad.
Strengths
He do these things V good!
Power
The first thing people recognize about Jordy is his power. And
yes, obviously size plays an integral role in Jordy’s water
displacement, but unlike other big men in our sport (Sunny Garcia,
Tai Van Dyke), he mostly uses timing and skill to make it rain, not
raw aggression.
Jordy’s height gives him the ability to extend bottom turns to
whichever length he pleases, be it 20 yards or half a foot.
Remember his almost buzzer-beater against Jules in
Victoria? The transition from one turn to the next was so tight, so
exact, that he was able to able to perform the second maneuver on a
section created by his own wake. The only other person I’ve seen do
that with major turns is Andy.
Stance
Jordy has a fairly small stance, which is mainly beneficial. A
wide stance forces drawn-out, rounder turns (see: Adriano), whereas
compact positioning allows the rider to achieve sharper angles
(see: Kolohe). Jordy makes best use of this technique with his
carve-to-snap in the pocket, a turn to which he owes his 2016
Lowers trophy.
Knee mobility
A variation of the above concept is hip and knee directional
mobility. One thing I’ve learned from surfing and watching the
surfing of others, is that knees and hips are not all created
equal. Specifically, some people’s bend inwards (Mick, Jordy) and
others’ bend outwards (Adriano, me).
Outward bending knees are bad for surfing in ways both stylistic
and technical. When your knees bow and extend beyond your feet, it
not only looks like you’re taking a shit, but it makes you more
likely to fall and less likely to recover.
Imagine you’re doing a big carve, and halfway through you shift
your weight to the front leg. At this point the weight should fall
onto the knee, which then passes it to the foot, which is supported
by the board. If your front knee extends beyond the point of your
planted foot, the weight is then unable to transition to the foot
and has nowhere to go but down… all the way to the water.
If you manage to keep your feet on the board and find yourself
in a layback position, you’re still screwed. From a stance where
your knees are splayed, there’s no point of resistance to help get
you back to your feet. Unless you’ve got abs of Tungsten, you might
as well release your board stop and floundering in the white wash.
It ain’t gonna happen.
But Jordy! That lucky sum’bitch has inward bending knees which
are not only fashionable but also annoyingly functional. When
Jordy lays it on rail, his triangular stance is much more stable,
as it delivers weight efficiently from body to knee to foot to
board, thus keeping him centered at all times. This concept goes
back to the scientific principle of triangles being more stable
than squares or parallelograms. In a triangle, the weight is evenly
distributed to all sides, so there’s less risk of a collapse.
Footwork
I find it interesting that the concept of mobility on the
surfboard has come back in style since it was seemingly destroyed
by the Slater era. Once Kelly and co. started riding the potato
chip boards, the need to change one’s stance throughout a ride
became outdated. Boards were constructed in a way that allowed
riders to perform all aspects of surfing from the tail, so
front feet never crossed the center-point of the board. That
was until airs became a major aspect of the sport.
Nowadays most air reverses and nose-picks are landed in
cheater-five. There are multiple reasons for this:
– It softens the landing. The more weight you have on your front
foot and the further forward you land on the nose, the more the
water receives your weight like a sponge. Ankle busters occur when
you land flat and the board bounces back at unsuspecting
ligaments.
– The front foot acts as a pivot point. By landing with your weight
on the nose, you’re able to continue the spin without fear of the
fins catching too early and throwing yourself off.
– Wider stance = triangular base = more balance. If your one foot
is on the tail and your other on the nose, even the tallest man’s
knees could not extend past his feet. This ensures the coveted
triangular landing position.
But the footwork concept is not only limited to airs. While
Jordy’s approach to turns is based around a tight stance, he’s one
of the best at repositioning his feet to meet the needs of any
maneuver. Whether it’s a giant punt or one of those Dane-turn
laybacks, the front foot needs to be repositioned (For the air:
forward. For the turn: forward and towards the heelside rail.) in
order to transition his weight properly and complete the move.
Jordy performs this seamlessly.
Flaws
No surfer is without fault! Jordy, for me, falls short in two
categories.
Lefts
I’m not saying Jordy has a bad backside, but it’s
nowhere near his frontside, so in my mind that’s grounds for
criticism. It’s clear that Jordy has spent 80% of his life going
right. Durban, J-Bay, Cape Town, all rights. Even in the video
below where he’s surfing Lowers, a perfect split-peak, he opts to
go right nine times out of ten. Jody doesn’t seem to have the
same agility, wave-reading abilities or repertoire on his backhand.
There’s nothing inherently wrong with it, but he could certainly
make it better with a little effort.
Massive Pits
Jordy’s fatal flaw and the only non-psychological reason he’ll
never win a world title are giant tubes. Don’t feel bad Jords, I
truly believe this one is out of your hands. You’re either born
with the masochistic, survival-instinct-overriding,
twelve-pound-balls gene or you’re not.
Because riding big tubes isn’t that hard, physically. You paddle
under the ledge, make a drop, set a line, and you’re done. Dion
Atkinson did it at huge Chopes a few years ago, and he’d never
surfed a wave half that size. At Jordy’s level of surfing, it’s all
a state of mind.
A few short years ago there was one surefire
way to get on a mainstream news outlet, if you happened to be a
surfer, and that was to go and ride giant giant giant waves.
Like Garrett McNamara and his Nazare!
Who could ever forget the cutest clip of all time? Two best pals
riding around, sharing a laugh…
Oh it warms the cockles doesn’t it just though?
But it seems these salad years are over. This winter has
produced some of the biggest surf in recorded history and yet I
haven’t seen GMAC on any normal news channels. I haven’t seen him
on CNN, ABC, NBC, CBS, TNT, TBS… None of them!
It seems like the public has tired of big big big surf. It seems
like to get any attention you have to be a cute 10 year old doing a
little midface cuttie while a giant great white rolls underneath
you.
The above image went absolutely everywhere yesterday.
Everywhere!
Poor Garrett.
Read about the boy, the shark and his father here!
Bruce irons, who is thirty seven, recently joined Mark
Occhilupo, fifty, on the Occ-Cast to speak on Bruce’s
Triple Crown efforts, The Andy doco, and children. It was an
enlightening conversation between two surfing legends so without
further fluff, let’s dig in!
Triple Crown
Bruce gained entry to the Triple Crown through the WSL’s
Nepotism Wildcard and proceeded to lose first round in all three
events. His heat total average across the events teetered around
seven, and I heard rumors of his initial Pipe heat being surfed
half-drunk on Luke Davis’ 5’5″ fun shape. I was on the beach for
that heat and watched Bruce bog and flail a few times before
walking down to Pupukea for a surf of my own. This is where I would
have my one and only Rory Parker sighting. At the time I wasn’t
sure it was him, but I knew he was on the North Shore and this
manatee-esque bodysurfer fit his description to a T. A piece he posted the following day affirmed my
beliefs.
The Andy Movie
Currently without an official title, the Andy movie is set to
release sometime this century. Bruce speaks candidly of the film,
mentioning that he’ll only watch the finished product one time, as
the experience is quite painful for a still-grieving brother. He
noted that all interviewees were encouraged to be open and honest,
because “nobody wants to see something sugar-coated.” And he’s
right. We want the whole truth and nothing but the truth. Really
looking forward to that movie.
Kids
Isn’t it wonderful how (almost) everyone in the world can come
together through the concept of loving thy children? So long as
your kid is not gay, doesn’t date someone from an inferior race,
doesn’t choose an unacceptable route of employment, and follows
your exact political leanings and athletic activities, parents are
so darn accepting! In a comical banter, Bruce and Occy trade
stories of pushing their kids to surf and being given the cold
shoulder. Occy’s youngest gravitated towards tennis, and Bruce’s
five year old won’t surf unless someone other than Bruce proposes
the idea. Amazing!