Want your surfing to be a joy not an exercise in
frustration? Finesse your technique!
I spent ten hours at the beach
today. A Minnesotan’s dream, my worst nightmare. But
after watching a full day of amateur collegiate surfing, I feel
primed and ready to deliver another installment of technique
critiques. The average joe edition!
Disclaimer: this is more of
a how-to-easily-improve-your-surfing than a technique critique.
It’s based on those faux pas I witnessed today and throughout my
lifetime of surfing spectatorship.
Paddling
The most basic, brainless aspect of
surfing. At least that’s what most amateurs seem to think. In
reality, paddling makes all the difference in the world. A strong
paddler will improve his surfing twice as fast as a lame duck
because of wave count and positioning.
The first concept is simple. If you
paddle faster and more efficiently, you’ll catch more waves. If you
catch more waves, you’ll get more opportunity to practice and thus
improve more quickly than those around you.
Paddling to position yourself is one
of the most crucial skills in the game. It involves a combination
of wave reading, timing, and paddle strength, but if done correctly
you will maximize the potential of every wave caught. The key
is to position yourself to gain as much speed as possible on the
takeoff, while setting yourself up to utilize that speed on the
first section.
Most amateurs don’t know how to get up and boogie.
The main reason comes down to foot placement. We all want to rip
one off the top and let the fins breathe, and that happens from
standing on the kick. But guess what you need in order to perform
the vicious lip kick? Speed. And from where do you
most efficiently gain this momentum? The center of the
board.
Some basics techniques to improve
your paddling include: keeping your head still (this will stop you
from “yawing”, when the board shimmies side to side underneath you
thus slowing forward momentum), positioning yourself in a way to
paddle minimally (sit under an approaching swell and wait for it to
reach you, don’t paddle out to it) and making the last three
strokes your strongest (acceleration during takeoff facilitates the
pop-up and makes skirting past the first section a
breeze).
Pumping
Most amateurs don’t know how to get
up and boogie. The main reason comes down to foot placement. We all
want to rip one off the top and let the fins breathe, and that
happens from standing on the kick. But guess what you need in order
to perform the vicious lip kick? Speed. And from where do
you most efficiently gain this momentum? The center of the
board.
Surfboards are designed with
flipped noses and tails so that you can perform maneuvers without
sliding out or nosediving. If you remain planted on the tail when
trying to pump, you’ll naturally plow (push water) and lose
potential speed. However, if you shift both feet forward (back foot
just in front of the pad, front foot just past the midpoint of the
board), your sled will plane through flat spots and allow you to
maximize speed heading into a section. The downside is that the
footwork (getting your feet back to the sweet-spot just before you
perform a turn) can be tricky to dial, but with enough practice it
becomes second nature.
Backside
lipper
Pick a spot and commit.
Once you’ve decided to hit the section, drive hard off the bottom
and point eyes and arms toward the trough of the wave. You won’t be
able to see any thing, but you don’t need to. When you feel like your nose
is about to pierce the lip, kick back on the tailpad and jam the
front foot down simultaneously. This will allow for the
Wilko-whipping sensation, providing spray and slide aplenty. But
the main thing is trusting your initial instinct and blindly
attacking the lip.
Airs
Don’t. Kick. Your. Board. Away.
Instead of trying to fling yourself off a section, imagine popping
off the lip while taking a small step forward with your front foot.
Literally shift your weight (shoulders and hips) forward while
lifting your front foot and moving it toward the nose. This will
help you stay over it and provide a softer landing position (wider
landing stance = more stability and fluffier impact due to rocker
and board flex).
Or just comment about how this
should be on The Inertia and continue
surfing like a soggy crouton. Your choice!
