If you have social media, and the data suggests
you do, then it should be no secret that the Goldcoast has had a
damn good autumn.
Day after day my feed is clogged with images of two, maybe
three-foot perfection peeling down the Superbank. The wind is
light, the water is blue, and the barrels — well they’re
plentiful.
But pictures lie. They sell beauty and prestige when oftentimes
the reality is much more grim. The wave-of-the-day is made out to
be the standard and every drooly-mouthed surf fiend is left feeling
an innate sense of loss. This is, at least, what I told myself to
avoid the pangs of surf anxiety.
Then this video comes out and ruins my little fantasy.
It’s called Dreamount and affirms that the
Superbank’s recent beauty wasn’t just an Instagram filter but
in fact a warm, soft truth. Please see below for details.
Sure, the Slaters and Fannings and
(Mitch) Parkinsons got their fill, but it’s the successes of the
everyman that really gets my goat. It’s like, when you see John
John get a good one at Backdoor you don’t really care, because that
never could have been you. But when some random guy a beat-up stick
and halfa skillset gets a proper screamer — that cuts deep.
Tube envy aside, I’m quite intrigued by the machinations of the
Superbank. It seems to have changed drastically over the decades.
When I was a kid, it was all about Snapper Rocks. As I got older,
Kirra slowly started to return and had a few incredible moments.
Nowadays, it seems that Greenmount is the hot ticket in town.
Aussie friends, what’s your favorite bank to get burned,
frustrated, and occasionally tubed? Are you maybe in this dream
clip?
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Australians 12th best surfers in
world!
By Derek Rielly
But still better than Turkey and Greece (for
now)!
Did you follow, with breath bated, nostrils distended
etc, the travails of the ISA world titles in France?
I think it is on every year and, although it used to be an
amateur sorta thing, now anyone can enter. Last week it was held in
Biarritz, France, “the California
of Surfing”, as the New York Times called it. The
Mexican Jhony Corzobecame the men’s world
champion and France’s Pauline Ado the women’s.
France, according to the official arbiter of such things, is now
the number one surf nation in the world, its winning total almost
double the points totals of second place Portugal and third place
Spain.
Australian, a country that forever boasts of its surfing
prowess, meanwhile, finished twelfth, a handful of points ahead of
England and Germany and well behind Japan, Peru and Costa Rica.
I also think the ISA is running, in conjunction with the WSL,
the surfing part of the Olympic Games.
From The New York Times story.
The International Surfing Association’s
president, Fernando Aguerre, lobbied the I.O.C. throughout his
23-year reign to get his sport into the Olympics.
“Our Olympic wave took me personally 22
years of paddling — a very long time paddling — but together, we’ve
done it and now surfing is both an Olympic and a Pan-American Games
sport,” Aguerre, 59, said, addressing surfers at the opening
ceremony.
Leandro Usuna of Argentina, a two-time
World Surfing Games champion, said surfers had earned their spot in
the Olympics.
“We used to be
seen like a rebel sport, but now people see how much we train, how
much we sacrifice and how disciplined we are,” Usuna said. “Maybe
back in the day, it was all rock ’n’ roll, but now if you want to
be the best, you have to train like the best. That’s what the sport
has come to.”
Olympic inclusion
means potential new sponsors, public and private funding, support
from national Olympic committees, greater demands and enhanced
media exposure. Aguerre says he is not worried that surfing will
become too mainstream, sacrificing its culture and its easygoing
vibe.
“They say that
size is the enemy of cool or that quantity and quality are
inversely proportional, so I’m very aware of this,” he said. “My
feet are on the sand, and when they’re not on the sand, they’re on
the surfboard.”
Are you thrilled, like me, that surfing
isn’t a rebel sport and how it used to be “rock n roll” but now
requires all the tenacity of a Russian gymnast to succeed?
Here are the results.
Team Rankings
1 (Gold) – France
2 (Silver) – Portugal
3 (Bronze) – Spain
4 (Copper) – Mexico
5 – Japan
6 – Peru
7 – USA
8 – Brazil
9 – Costa Rica
10 – South Africa
Open Men Medalists
Gold – Jhony Corzo (MEX)
Silver – Joan Duru (FRA)
Bronze – Pedro Henrique (POR)
Copper – Jonathan Gonzalez (ESP)
Open Women Gold Medalists (Women finished on May
22)
Gold – Pauline Ado (FRA)
Silver – Johanne Defay (FRA)
Bronze – Leilani McGonagle (CRC)
Copper – Bianca Buitendag (RSA)
ISA Aloha Cup
Gold – France
Silver – Portugal
Bronze – Peru
Copper – USA
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Rip Curl wins Best Customer Service!
By Chas Smith
Now this is a story I can sink my teeth into.
I am back on dry land after five days in Laird
Hamilton’s blueish-red ocean and sad. What in this surf
world could possibly captivate me like Laird on menstruation again?
Will the sun ever shine or will I spend the rest of my days
wandering in periodic darkness?
But I got to see lots of pictures and everyone looked like they
were having the greatest time without me. Coronas. Poorly fitted
black button-ups. Tom Carroll.
And then, near the bottom of the piece, I saw it:
“No strangers to the awards, Rip Curl took out Wetsuit of the
Year with the 4/3 Chest Zip Flashbomb and Mirage MF Focus 21
winning Boardshort of the Year. The Torquay company also walked
away with Swimwear of the Year and Customer Service Office of the
year to round out the evening.”
Customer Service Office of the Year! Phones ringing. Answering
calls about duckdive induced brain injuries. Answering calls about
Kim Jong Un’s real designs on the Korean Peninsula. Not answering
calls about returned products because duh. Flasher and MF never get
returned.
No duh on the 4/3 chest zit Flashdance and MFuckus 21. Those
bangers are best in class (I assume. North Koreans demand quality)
but Customer Service Office? Now that is the coup of the
decade!
Customer Service Office of the Year! Phones ringing. Answering
calls about duckdive induced brain injuries. Answering calls about
Kim Jong Un’s real designs on the Korean Peninsula. Not answering
calls about returned products because duh. Flasher and MF never get
returned.
I wonder who won the best Customer Service Office last year? Now
this is a story I can sink my teeth into.
So long, Laird!
Hello, Torquay!
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SurfStitch: “Who knows if it’ll trade
again!”
By Derek Rielly
Founder Justin Cameron says company's future is
"very unpredictable."
Do you long for glory days? I don’t.
If it ain’t around the corner, it means life is on a
downward slope, ending in the grave etc? Hence the danger of
nostalgia.
One exception to the nostalgia-is-death rule must be
granted to the online surf retailer SurfStitch. Oh, it was on
such a high eighteen months ago. Worth almost half-a-billion
dollars. Tens of millions of dollars shovelled into
acquisitions.
Life was a dream. But so fragile!
Last week, SurfStitch went into a voluntary trading
halt in response to a $100 million lawsuit from shareholders who
say the company was a little florid in its profit expectations. One
old man paid $2.12 a share only to see ’em worth six cents. And
even if he wanted to cash out he couldn’t. The shares are in a
trading halt, one that might last until August.
And in today’s Australian Financial
Review the company’s co-founder Justin Cameron, a
tough, alert and fiercely intelligent biz-man who quit
SurfStitch last year to organise a private equity takeover
of the company, said its future is “very unpredictable, who
knows if it will trade again… Significant time and money appears to
be focused on litigation as opposed to managing the business.”
The company said it would explore a way to settle the legal
claim “at a level that would permit the company’s continued
financial viability.”
A few moments ago the company and its assets had a market
valuation of $18.9 million.
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“Severson was a surf media shark!”
By Derek Rielly
Matt Warshaw obits on surf culture pioneer John
Severson, dead at eighty-three.
On Friday, the surf media pioneer John Severson affixed
his angel wings and soared to heaven, perhaps bumping into
BeachGrit’sMichael
Kocher in the queue.
Now, Severson, who was eighty three, really was something. A
hell of an artist, a swinging filmmaker and a businessman who
turned the childish act of balancing on a surfboard into a
fabulously profitable enterprise via the magazine
Surfer.
Obits on the old man are everywhere. But no one can articulate a
fellow surfer’s legacy better than surf historian Matt
Warshaw.
Let’s begin.
BeachGrit: Here’s a story you’ll like. I was visiting
the office of The Surfer’s Journal, being shown around the joint by
its editor when I was introduced to the owner. Oh, Mr Severson, I
cried. What a pleasure it is to meet you. You’re the voice, the
creator of surf media. Of course, as you know, it wasn’t Severson
but Steve Pezman. So who the hell was John Severson and why does he
matter?
Warshaw: You made Steve Pezman’s day. A hot young gun making a
fool of himself, and the idea that he (Pez) could be mistaken for
the great Sevo. Steve’s a big gentle honey bear, but he’s got some
bastard deep inside, and he can be as insecure as the rest of us,
so that’s a double win for him.
In 1968 when the psychedelic train pulled into town, John,
who was 35, ancient, climbed onboard, rang the bell, and drove the
fucking thing.
BeachGrit: Fuck, wait a minute, that’s a lazy open-ended
question. I might’ve just said, how about you write an obit for
free? Okay. You know him? What kind of man was he?
Warshaw:John was first and foremost an artist. Sort of like
Andrew Kidman or Thomas Campbell, where the first thought every
morning is to pick up a camera or a brush or a pencil and just
start making something. The big difference between Severson and all
those guys is that he was also a business genius. SURFER was a hit
from issue #1. He spun off all kinds of things, posters, shirts,
books, even mugs, and he just never seemed to put a foot wrong when
making a deal. And then finally, and most spectacularly, in 1968
when the psychedelic train pulled into town, John, who was 35,
ancient, climbed onboard, rang the bell, and drove the fucking
thing.
BeachGrit: God he could draw, couldn’t he.
Warshaw: The early stuff is fantastic, the later stuff is
sentimental shit. John was the Rod Stewart of surf artists.
BeachGrit: First question. Severson sure do matter. One
of the first surf filmmakers. A massive influence in that regard,
yes?
Warshaw:He’s famous for starting SURFER, the “Bible of the
Sport” and everything, and that’s what will go on his tombstone.
But he was probably a better filmmaker than he was a publisher. Or
at least just as good. Pacific Vibrations is his
magus opus, and it’s kind of too big a bummer for its own good,
what with all the dire environmental messaging and everything. But
as a craftsman, I think he was the best, and that includes Greg
MacGillivray and Jim Freeman there.
BeachGrit: And then he started a magazine with the best
name ever, The Surfer, which later became Surfer. So he kicked off
the whole surf media thing, yeah?
Warshaw:There were a couple shitty little surf magazines just
before surfer. Greg Noll did one, and it was fish wrap. SURFER made
it stick.
The early stuff is fantastic, the later stuff is sentimental
shit. John was the Rod Stewart of surf artists.
BeachGrit: He had this fabulous role call of talent, the
artist Rick Griffin, photographer Ron Stoner, write Drew Kampion,
and, yeah, Steve Pezman. It wasn’t as if surf media kicked off with
some crummy zine. What do you think Severson’s opinion of current
surf media would be?
Warshaw:He had the best eye for talent, like nobody before or
since. He knew who was great and who was just merely very good, and
he also knew how to develop talent. Ron Stoner was promising when
he first arrived at SURFER, but John arguably turned him into the
Stoner we now revere. John paid Ron, for starters, buffed him out
with the best equipment, and most importantly was able to express
to Ron—John himself was an excellent photographer—how to move
around a lineup, try different angles, experiment. Ron needed
that.
BeachGrit:You think he’d be enjoying Surfer, as is,
2017?
Warshaw:John had a huge friendly ever-present smile, but he was
a shark, maybe the biggest surf media shark ever, it’s how he did
what he did for that amazing 12-year run. Velvet glove, iron fist,
John didn’t invent it, but it applied it better than anyone in
surf. All that said, at his core John was really upbeat and
positive. Loved his work, loved his hobbies, I don’t ever saw much
of a distinction between the two. He viewed his life and one
continuous art piece, and demanded a lot of himself and others, but
also was stood back often and beamed at how it was all turning out.
I think he’d find things to enjoy about SURFER today, and I’m sure
he’d be thinking, always, of how he could improve it.
BeachGrit: Had a bitchin joint at Cottons, yeah? Did he
surf into dotage?
Warshaw:He had the best beachfront house at Cottons, back when
the Marines were still keeping the place mostly on lockdown. John
lived next door to Nixon, and it turned out that the President
either had John’s house bugged, or was monitoring all the comings
and goings, and John and his family got freaked out enough by all
the Secret Service guys, and the weird clicks on the phone, the
whole early ‘70s paranoia, that John sold the magazine, handed the
publisher keys to Pezman, and moved to Maui. Retired for good at
age 36. Surfed and painted right up to the end, I believe.
BeachGrit:How do you think his iconic quote stacks up in
2017: “In this crowded world the surfer can still seek and find the
perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his
thoughts.”