Who knew a little pier could lead to all of this?
Just short of a Bloodfeud is something I like to call a Turf War.
What it lacks in blatant ferocity, the Turf War makes up for with its politics and tactical maneuvering. This is not an ear-biting, crotch-kicking, eye-gouging brawl but rather a display of will and aptitude. If a Bloodfeud is won with an iron fist, a Turf War is won with shrewdness of mind.
And right now, right in the this very instant, we are in the midst of an epic Turf War between Red Frog Bungalows and a pair of Argentine investors. The two sides are in a fight for control over a popular surf break in Bocas del Toro, Panama. Let’s look at the details:
Four days ago, we posted about a pier being built at Playa Paunch. I came to learn about it by way of Kelly Slater, a regular BDS visitor, who reposted one of Red Frog Bungalows’ (the main (only?) surf camp in the archipelago) Instagram pleas. It reads:
Happy World Ocean Day! Unfortunately this is how the residents of Bocas Del Toro spent their day! Protecting one of the best surf spots in the Caribbean. They started to illegally build a 40 meter pier over the reef. The community knows exactly who is up to the stunt and it is a shame that these people think their big money can destroy something that is for all of the world to enjoy. The surfing community in Bocas Del Toro showed up in force to stop this illegal activity. This I s horrible for our coastline, horrible for tourism and extremey dangerous when the waves are on! This benefits one or a few people and not the country of Panama.
Jake Tellkamp, a past BeachGrit contributor who wasn’t killed by police fire, jumped on the news for Stab Magazine. His initial story was about Kelly’s take on the situation, but the real meat came in part two, when Jake broke the news that it was Ernesto Gutierrez, a former leader of the Surfrider Foundation’s Argentinian branch, and his nephew Juan Medo, who had tried to illegally build the pier.
I spoke with a local friend, who conveniently has PhD in Surf/Eco Tourism and teaches college classes half a mile from Paunch, about the Argentinian pier venture. He said:
For the Argentines (it’s the same people building the big hotel and restaurants behind the wave), I think the pier is for boats to pull up so people can go on land without swimming to it, can theoretically walk out to the surf without urchin dancing, also can have boats there to transfer guests around. I don’t think they wanna kill the break but I think their plan is shit and people underestimate all the factors that make waves great.
Now, back to the Stab piece. Jake went on to speak with Red Frog owner, Scott Balogh, who had this to say:
Surfing is the number one draw to Bocas del Toro, and its waves are of tremendous economic value bringing in tens of millions of dollars every year. This development would benefit very few, and none of those being locals.
A seemingly altruistic statement, but what ulterior motives could lurk beneath Scott’s impassioned plea?
Below the post was an interesting comment (originally posted in Español but Google Translated to English for the sake of our audience), highlighting some of Gutierrez’s finer moments before tossing a jab at Scott from Red Frog:
Dear Stab Magazine:
We know the trajectory of Ernesto Gutierrez, pioneer of Argentine surfing, former President of Surfrider Argentina, of his love and respect for the coastal environment, who made many efforts and campaigns, which were reflected in the preservation of La Paloma, one of the scenarios Emblematic of the surf in our country, avoiding the construction of two stones of 90 meters that were going to destroy two pocket beaches associated with the cliffs and the world class waves that break in that location. The same at the mouth of the Arroyo Las Brusquias of the site of the final disposal site of the Municipality of Gral. Pueyrredón and the construction of a breakwater in T both in Mar Chiquita and SunRider Beach in Mar del Plata
Also his commitment and achievements in the Rise Above Plastic Campaign where we obtained ordinances in localities of our country for the prohibition of the plastic bags of a single use.
We think that it is difficult to take action against the environment in the place where you live in Bocas del Toro Panama and if we think that there are interests on the part of Mr. Scott Balogh to promote his business venture at the expense of the good name of our former President.
Best regards
Gustavo Huici
Executive Director Surfrider Argentina
And do you see what is happening here? Red Frog has held a monopoly over the surf scene in Bocas for quite some time, and they have no interest in new competition. By discovering a weak point in the competition’s scheme (an illegal pier), they were able to kindle the flame of environmental responsibility and local economic strife to start a social media shitstorm. It’s bloody brilliant!
As we know, the pier has since been put on hold by local authorities. My local contact explains:
[The Argentines] claimed to have paperwork approving their pier and lied to everyone about the size and scale of it. The protestors blocked construction and the correador (the local gov office that handles property titles and building permits from the municipality) came and reviewed the permits and said they did not have proper concession to build over the reef. They are going to keep pushing for it though. It ain’t over…
And what a wonderful time to be alive. Scott from Red Frog has played his hand beautifully, but I wait with great anticipation for Gutierrez from Surfrider’s next move.
Before I go, just a couple questions for the audience:
- If the allegations are true, would you be surprised that an ex-Surfrdier executive would pull such a move at a known surf break?
- Whose side are you on? My heart says Red Frog is in the right, but those motherfuckers charge like $250 a night. Maybe a little competition will do the region some good…
You can get to Paunch for $5 by boat, $3 by cab or virtually $0 if you bought yourself a $50 used bike that you ride everyday to the spot using the partial paved public road.
You can also sleep in a hostel for $8 a night or even find some sweet deals on flats if you stay for an extended period of time (you are allowed to 6 months at a time)
I don’t believe Red Frog Bungalow has even a ground for establishing a monopoly on any popular break in Bocas del Toro and that includes Paunch.
His rates I think have much more to do with the access to his advanced local knowledge and professional expertise to get people to THE break of the day (Instagrams fotos to back it up), some of them he reaches by boat but anyone can find “lancha” captain that would take them to those places whose names I won’t mention here.
Turf War IT IS NOT….And an isolated case neither.
In Peru, Latin American country, surfers from the Federacion Deportiva Nacional de Tabla (aka “fenta”) protested against the destruction of waves and wrote a law proposal called “Ley de Rompiente” or Ley 27280 before finding a (loooong) way to put it through the legislative process. Ley 27280 became effective and enforceable in 2013. Created to protect breaks, it permits to register the waves (only recently made possible) and place them under legislative protection against corruption and illegal building/development…just like in Paunch.
Red Frog Bungalow is definitely not trying to protect a supposed “monopoly” which doesn’t even exist, but only participated and allowed the local community to have a better reach as Scott Balogh is personally part of a bigger surf community network of people that can help raise awareness and get intl support…and a better chance to demonstrate the importance of the matter to the local authorities and national lawmakers.
Many information available on the Facebook Group called “Salvemos playa Paunch !” (translates into “Let’s save Paunch beach !”.
As for the “SurfRider Exec”….well he has to clarify his paper work and explain why he started build a concrete structure 200ft long instead of the smaller wooden structure that had been granted permit by local authorities.
As Jake Tellkamp said in a reply : to be continued…
Cordially
Red Frog Bungalow has only tried to support the protest by reaching out to the reknown surfers to help the community being heard. Red Frog Bungalows has no “monopoly” as you suggest since there are many ways to stay in Bocas and get dropped by a boat at surf spots other than staying at Red Frog Bungalows. I believe the added value of Red Frog Bungalows offer comes from the fact that Scott is very acknowledged and will ALWAYS know which wave breaks best and people pay the price for this guarantee of surfing the best wave of the day….which is why Pros like Slater stay with him.
Your article really should mentioned that Red Frog Bungalow came in the frontline since it is well connected with the intl Surf Community thanks to his founder’s great customer service and professionalism and not PR money.
For your info, since it seems you never stepped the archipelago : Anyone can stay in a dorm for $8/nigth and get a boat to any breaks around or a bike. Paunch is no exclusivity and it’s a $4 taxi ride to get there. So this Pier will not impact Red Frog Bungalows business, and could actually ruined Local Boat Drivers who make good income from dropping people off and picking them up (they dont anchor there EVER contrary to what Mr.Argentinian claims…..pathetic from his part btw).
So as far as I’m concerned the article is really not retransmitting the reality of the situation in Bocas del Toro and makes it sound like it’s about a fight between the Argentinian who, let’s not forget to mention, are using ILLEGAL ways to get something NOT APPROVED built ON LIVING REEF next to one of BOCAS BEST WAVE and Red Frog Bungalow apparently having a monoploy on a wave anyone can access for a very little price and not at all only through Red Frog Bungalow.
So we can see the author has not investigated much (did he receive PR money also ?!) and is making assumptions that are absolutely false and actually STAIN the name of THE ONLY OWNER OF A SURF ORIENTED LOCAL BUSINESS that has taken upon himself to be on the front line of the protest INITIATED AND CURRENTLY BEING CONTINUED by the local community.
Please get your info straight, this is TURF WAR BETWEEN LOCAL SURFERS AND THIS ARGENTINIAN CORPORATION trying to buy his way through.
By the way, you should be aware that the same person that is trying to illegally build the pier in Paunch has 2 huge custom made luxury sail boat that I’m sure he would much prefer be able to access straight out of a dock in front of the hotel he bought and turned into a private house, instead of having to ride, like us common not rich human beings, on the dirt road all the way to the marina about 10 min away….and I really believe it’s, sadly, comes down to this.
So fuck this guy, his pier, his boat, his nephew and his dirty money. Fuck corruption and fuck LA CORPORACION
#NoAlMuelle #NoVa #FuckYouErnestoGuiterez
Living in #Bocas for 7 years has been a dream, but I have also seen how small and big money is stealing our beaches.
Most of the facts that I state below can be verified by documents shared by the community here >>
– https://www.facebook.com/gr…
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Sign online petition HERE >> https://www.change.org/p/em…
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I’ve also had the opportunity to swap stories with Bocas locals who’ve been here for for 60 years or more.
And they confirm that the deforestation of our coasts has led to land lost and erosion. We’ve lost in many parts of the Archipelago over 20 meters of land just because someone wanted a view and cut everything down.
Ernesto is building a 3 story restaurant and hotel (the first of its kind in the area), just behind the break at Paunch. I know for a fact, because I went to Ingeniería Municipal, that he only had permits for 1 story. He paid his fines and his bribes and thought he would get away with a pier in the same way too.
With corruption he got a permit by the Ministry of Environment to build a wooden dock. I say corruption because there are so many laws violated by his proposal that it’s not even a joke. So, he then got an architectural plan for a pier (a HUGE one), totally different from what the corrupt authority approved and was going to do it anyways.
The wooden dock would never make it as #KellySlater intially stated, and the pier would just be dangerous for everyone in the water. Needless to say drilling the reef.
Oh… and there are buoys where to anchor in Paunch. Behind and to one side of the break. Or just pay a local boatmen to drop you off and come back for you. You want to surf in other places? Save some cash and respect… simple. Surfers who travel on public buses know that.
Is this guy a real surfer? I’ve been next to him many times in the line up. And he’s never dropped in, so this comes as surprise to me, but you look at the facts, and they are very clear. I can say without a doubt that his Argentinean partner in Bocas is quite shady and does not share. They also changed names of beaches and breaks. Nothing against Argentinians, as right here in Bocas, there are AMAZING examples of amazing people from that great nation that I’m fortunate enough to call my friends, but not this Ernesto.
Then we did an online research of this individual’s reputation, and it’s quite dark to say the least. Corruption and killing. Go ahead and use google. I prefer duck duck go these days.
As for Ernesto living in Bocas, we don’t really know cause he just comes and goes in his helicopter… I’ve seen him twice in the last 12 months and I live here.
Today I talked with some of his workers. Go ask what they think. I started picking up the trash in the area as I always do, and now his workers came and help. That is good.
As for Ernesto cleaning dumpers, there could be nothing more far from the truth. That happened before he came here, maybe 8 years ago, and that was a community effort with the support of the Ministry of Tourism from another president’s time, maybe in 2009 so more lies.
The current mayor of Bocas himself has stated on live audio that he DID NOT and WILL NOT allow this to go forward. This was over a week when it went off. These magazines and Kelly Slater are giving hours of their time to 1 individual with billions who spreading lies. So I can only think, that you are not journalists, just sell outs. And you are making all of us, this community of Bocas surfers, also waste our time, cause we don’t have millions.
To Stab and Surfer and Surfline, I can only say that you are not representing your interests at all. Maybe Rob Machado, Greg Long or Ramon Navarro can give you some light if you only listen to pros?
Just in that area we used to have mangroves. There are drone photos. I have videos on myself that go way back. Other friends local and from abroad too. We have photos and videos from many months ago. Even years. Drone and land footage of how that area used to be.
We filed legal complaints but corruption won.
So when he started his greedy thing, we spoke loud and clear, and will continue until he listens to the community and STOPS for real.
This article is just BS for a billionaire spinning his PR machine. With all due respect but it’s just that.
In Bocas del Toro many people make a living from surfing tourists or just tourists wanting to enjoy the beaches. I am not one of them, but I do surf. I’m a 5 minute walk from Paunch, and have seen how the area is changing.
There is a simple solution, where us as a community are demanding that development happens in a certain way, allowing universal access to our beaches.
Build your hotels and restaurants on the other side of the road. Simple. Even better if you hire and train locals to work with you. Oh, and compost toilets and upcycle your trash instead of sending it to the jungle of Drago to burn.
We do not have infrastructure to grow. Have you seen our schools and hospitals? Have you seen the neighbourhoods where our poor live? Above shit? And this guy wants to appear as a hero? If you have zillions, then some classrooms like GIVE AND SURF do, and some PARKS please. Public. Specially if they are right on the beach and you want to do something. Skate ramps maybe?
We can also take lessons from all over the world how to stop the erosion.
And the only hill in the area, leave it PUBLIC so that all of us can still look at the surf from above without having to pay this billionaire to enjoy what nature gave us all.
Use a bike and your legs to get to the breaks, as most of us humans do who aren’t millionaires and don’t own a boat.
Make friends with locals, and earn our respect, and we’ll show you how to get into the breaks, without stepping on live coral reef.
We don’t wear booties like Ernesto and his friends do. We go bare foot over the sand and the rock. And then paddle through the whitewater. You know, duck dives? We like how John John Florences trains to duck dive.
Developers and private individuals, going hand in hand with corrupt authorities have closed access to many beaches all over the Archipelago.
Our constitution in Panama is quite clear stating that beaches should remain open to the public.
And climate change is just making things worst.
So, please head over to this facebook group and at least here what the community has to say >>
https://www.facebook.com/gr…
Otherwise, you are not welcome to surf Paunch. Nor to the right, nor to the left.
Have you ever been to Bocas? I know the first person to surf that wave and they will fight for the wave there are plenty of surf camps there, not just red frog. If you ever come to bocas don’t come back. Cause what it sounds like is you are on the Argentineans side and you have all of bocas against you.
Ya, Red Frog’s conflict of interest was immediately obvious to anybody who’s been to Bocas. Or at least should have been.
as a Bocas resident I feel this article is a
bit misinformed
This fight in NO WAY is between Red Frog Bungalows and said Argentineans. This is a fight between our LOCAL COMMUNITY of surfers and nature lovers alike. While Red Frog Bungalows is definitely involved, they are merely a player working alongside and supporting the rest of a larger surf community. So please, it has nothing to do with $250 a night bunglows. This is a LOCAL wave, everybody surfs here. Local kids, Expats and toursits alike, dont make it into something its not.
We are all in it for the environment, the love of the waves and promoting surf tourism for all walks of life.
By “expats” do you mean colonists or immigrants?
By “promoting surf tourism for all walks of life” do you mean “making money off of everyone”?
Thanks for clarifying.
happy to clarify. This is a tourist town. surf is a big draw. most people who live here, meaning Panamanian and non Panamanian (expats) make a living in the tourist industry. destroying this wave will have a negative impact on tourism as well a comprising one of the best waves in Panama. So it is bad for the environment and nearly everyone who lives and surfs here and benifits a couple of rich guys and their friends.
And when I say ‘surf tourism’ you are damn right i mean making money off people who come here to surf. From broke backpackers to high rollers. Its a TOURIST TOWN, its what we do. And when I say we, I mean nearly EVERYONE who lives here. The Panamanians, the expats, (or colonists and immigrants if you prefer) AND their Moms.
Red Frog Bungalows was invited to the protest and here in Bocas Del Toro where i live, is a lot of surf camps schools, etc… this is for sure not about competition… This is for our environment and waves that we love and care about! I invite you Michael Ciaramella to come here and check with your own eyes the reef that we are talking about and the wave and how it works and the channel and the community and all the surf industry that shows Red Frog Bungalows is just another one… The community is so thankful that our word iS out there and no matter how many bad publicity you want to use against a person that is par of the community “ese muelle NO VA”. is so easy to say something when you don’t know the place… but Kelly Slater knows and that’s the only reason he is in our side…. Thanks Stab Magazine and Surfer Magazine to help us and tell the truth about our problem… unfortunately for you we have a lot of prove on paper of what is really going on here and no matter what you said or how much you want to defend your Surfrider heroe, we are our own heroes in our own island.
Oh wait for part three, Michael. The best is yet to come.
Argentineans are all motherfuckers. They should pay their sovereign debt first. Argentina fucked thounsands and thousands of pension funds all over the world. A country of motherfuckers
In Central America I am guessing the “correct paperwork” can be purchased for $300 or less. More concerning is where does one get a PhD in “surf tourism”? Probably from a university that advertises on TV. It would be AMAZING if you could post your friend’s dissertation here.
Easily settled with a belly flop contest off the platform at Aqua Lounge.
If I didn’t have to take 3 shits a day I probably wouldn’t have read this.
Also, instead of a cumbersome jetty, why not build a groyne right through the guts and blow up the inside reef to form a small marina. Turn a decent wave into an epic wall bouncing wedge.
The biggest question, who are these scared-to-death weirdos who need their creature comforts of their white suburban safe-house while in Central America? People actually feel the need to stay at a surf camp owned by a stinking gringo who pockets it all. There are so many locally owned accomodation around Bocas which are 1/10th of the price, where you actually might try some local restaurants (damn good), maybe learn a little bit of the language. You might even lose that fear of someone who has darker skin than you. You might meet a girl! Not in Red frog thats 100%. Not just in Panama, all through latin america. You know who you are, you disgust me! Stop watching the news and grow some balls, enjoy the country and culture experience. Otherwise you are like chinese tourist in your country who goes on china owned tour who eats at china restuarant and pays nothing to your country but shits in your toilets. Pussy. (By all means pay the local driver in his boat $5 take a boat to red frog island and surf the beach break, you don’t need to stay there, even though these pussies will get angry when you arrive, just laugh and surf).
Big talk for a river surfer. Nah, good stuff
my memory of Bocas was 50% Panamanians, 50% Americans who didn’t speak Spanish but retired in Panama specifically because it used the USD and lots of English is spoken.
sounds like you stayed at red frog.
i kinda wish. looked pretty nice over there.
Let me guess, you’re white, and bald(ing)
Frickin’ David Rastovich?! Last I heard he was selling false wristband idolatry
PhD in Surf Studies, hahahaha! So is he the naively enterprising guy from Baltimore who can’t surf or the narcissistic, pudgy guy from Wales who can’t surf?
San Diego…everything but an IQ…
Baltimore! Also, watch your tongue.
You’re right, I’ll watch my tongue.
I’m so glad that I didn’t say 1. surf tourism experts are mouthpieces and wannabe hangers-on for a surf industry that doesn’t give a shit about college and 2. peddling for-profit study abroad experiences to well-to-do teenagers is only a half-step up from selling Herbalife.
Mariano types with his tongue?
Damn. I might switch sides to get some of that action.
Buenos Aires….because we love ignorant, tactless remarks… just like your politicians
You do realize that “San Diego: Everything but an IQ” is a famous statement by the more famous Chas Smith, made here on this site many moons ago?
this argentine ernesto sounds like a greedy kook. I heard he’s founder of the inertia – Bocas adjacent chapter.
So it’s a fight between two rich guys about who gets to fuck the environment and who gets sloppy seconds. Greed makes the world go around.
No its not about two rich guys its about locals and bocas community trying to save our waves if they try to destroy our waves we will get rude again.
Really? Someone let money get in the way of their deeply held”principles”?
best advice ever: “kill them all, let god sort them out”
What god?
Muhammad, Jesus or Buddha, or the flying spaghetti monster, whatever you believe in
Atheist, but if I had to choose – Flying Spaghetti Monster. Awesome parishioners
$250 a night is robbery in the third world and the ex-surfrider boss can go suck a dead goats dick till it breaks off and he chokes on it.
So Tellkamp went to Stab. Are they siphoning off Surfstitch profits to send him on the QS?
What profits?
the imaginary ones they promised shareholders
250 a night? In Central America ? Better be open bar with bottomless Bombay Sapphire martinis, ( W/ Noilly Prat dry vermouth) and a spear of 3 olives …. fuck, go rogue with a cocktail onion for a Gibson
I’m going to be another tired old guy and say “Bocas was so much better in 98”
Yup, join the club, so was Las Flores, El Sal in ’98
Theres other places to stay as cheap as 12 $ a night its not our fault that you all decide to stay there. If you don’t like it don’t come.