Fifteen-footer beaches itself! Winemaker wades out
to examine!
Our love for the flashily reckless great white
continues! Without words, these titanics of the sea speak
volumes!
Here, we see the winemaker Dale Pearson wading out to
a Great White shark whose navigation skills have left it
gesticulating on a shallow sandbank. And, Pearson, who knows the
shark can’t get to him snatches the rare opportunity to examine the
White.
“Holy fuck me right. Holy shit, holy shit,” he says.
Ironically, it’s the mostly inoffensive stingray that strikes
and not the White.
“It was a calculated risk. I am neither brave nor stupid. I knew
the shark was too shallow and out of range. The stingray however
did get me. I have over 37 years of ocean exposure and this is my
first stingray hit. Very painful.”
Watch!
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Watch: Skeleton Bay Comes to Life!
By Michael Ciaramella
The clips are pouring through!
Oh, commenters — you both break my heart and
give me reason to live!
With you, I’m often made to feel ignorant, arrogant, and
unwanted. Without you, well, I wouldn’t be in a position to feel
anything at all.
It’s a strange thing, to write for a demographic so much older,
more knowledgable, and oftentimes better writers than yourself.
Every day I push the rock up the mountain, only to get kicked in
the nuts by Nick C. or Longtom or even our beloved moderator,
Negatron, at the midway point. I hope they never stop.
Because the pain is good. It forces me to strive for something
greater than clickbait mediocrity.
But sometimes the comments find a soft spot. I’m left gutted on
the floor, soaking in a mess of what were once my internal
fluids. It’s painful beyond belief.
Seas Nail got me yesterday with dagger: I know no one in
Panama unfortunately, but I did hear guys were calling skeleton
‘best ever’ on this last swell. Have you wept yet or are you saving
it for a mental breakdown episode in your late thirties?
So yeah, not a writing or character critique, but goddamn if he
didn’t find a weak point. Skeleton Bay has been my primary goal for
the last three years, and I had every ability to chase this
swell. Just didn’t love the forecast nor did I want to deal
with a disgruntled missus. There’ll be another chance, I
(and she) told myself.
And there might be. But this was the swell,
apparently.
But then, a moment of positivity. Another commenter, Head Dip,
posted a link to the video from the Skeleton swell, along with an
intriguing prompt. He said:
Do a post on what it would’ve taken to get there.
Latest “Spit” podcast david lee scales and scott bass break
down how much time it took for him to get 3 barrels in 4 foot
Southern Mexico pointbreak. How much prep/travel time would it have
taken and how many waves would you need for it to be worth it to
travel halfway around the world?
Let’s watch the video first, for reference.
My intial impression is that, while the waves were clearly
remarkable, I can’t say this is the best Skeleton I’ve seen. The
caves are large and bulbous, true, but they don’t seem to run the
same way I’ve seen in years past. Maybe it’s the swell, maybe it’s
the bank, or maybe it’s the downfall of the wave as a whole — as
predicted by multiple surf sites and locals of the region — but it
doesn’t quite look like the world’s best wave in this clip.
So I can’t say I’m that depressed by my exclusion.
From the looks of things, guys were lucky to get a 3-5 second tube,
which is fucking amazing any day of the year, but not for Skeleton.
You go there in search of something from another dimension, which I
didn’t see much of in this clip.
In response to Head Dip: For me, it would have been worth it to
go on this swell, almost regardless of how I performed.
I look at it like this — the 80-hour (round trip) travel and
$3k spent would be forgotten in short time. The memory of
surfing the world’s best wave on a massive swell would stay
with me forever. If I got the wave of my life, unreal, but to
expect such a thing — especially with no knowledge of the lineup
and such a short window of opportunity — would be foolish.
My recently discovered goal in surfing is that, when aged
forty or fifty, I’ll be able to look at any surf film or magazine
(I’m calling for a resurgence around 2038) and say, Oh yeah,
I’ve been there, with a smile and wink.
It’s about dedicating myself to something that’s important to
me. And this is more important to me than… just about anything.
I’m sure that’ll change when I start popping out keikis, so as
far as I see it, the time is now. Which is tricky, because the
savings are quickly depleting and I still have responsibilities at
home. Becoming an adult is learning to wear several different
hats, but almost none of them match your favorite boardshorts.
So yeah, Head Dip, I’ll spend all my time and every last penny
for a shot at perfection, or at least another pin on the map. This
is my thing!
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Help: Panama Surf Break Under Siege!
By Michael Ciaramella
On World Ocean Day no less!
Do you know why we can’t have nice things, like
affordable health care and waves without piers running through
them? It’s because certain super-wealthy individuals feel the need
to exponentially increase their wealth even when, nay, especially
when it comes at the expense of the people.
They are greedy sons of bitches and all of us know it.
Unfortunately, these rich bastards have the upper hand in pretty
much every situation, on account of all that goddamn
money.
This theme rings true throughout history, but even today,
World Ocean Day, we find the same problem in Bocas del Toro,
Panama. I’ll let this Instagram post explain:
A post shared by Red Frog Bungalows (@redfrogbungalows) on
And don’t this just grind your gears? Me yes.
If you haven’t already forgotten, I
took a trip to the Caribbean archipelago in March. The
wave they’re referencing, Playa Paunch, is one of the most
consistent in the region. When small, it’s a rippable A-framing
reef break. When big, it’s a proper left-hand slab. Like Greenbush
without all the perfect.
I got my best wave of the trip there.
What you’re seeing in this photo is the initial rebar being
planted in the reef. This is actually the portion of the wave where
you paddle out. After walking across the reef for 20 meters,
there’s a small keyhole that allows you to shoot into the channel.
The pier looks like it will sit smack on top of it.
By my calculations, a pier built on this part of the
reef will need to be tall like giraffe and strong like ox. When the
swell’s up, even the “channel” has rogue waves in the six-to-eight
foot range. Something tells me they’re not quite prepared for
that.
Still, let’s play a little game of potential Pros and Cons to
Paunch’s new installment.
Pros:
– A place to dock boats
– A place to paddle in/out from (the reef walk, in all honesty,
sucks balls)
– A place for spectators/filmers
– A place with legitimate earning potential (charge boats, surfers,
hell, throw a little bar on the joint!) that could benefit the
local community
Cons:
– Could potentially ruin the surf break
– Will damage the reef
– Eyesore
– May not benefit the local community whatsoever
Local surfers and even Kelly
Slaterseem to be against the pier, which I get,
but maybe it’s not all bad? Like how do they really know it will
ruin the surf? And who is this greedy nemesis they so mockingly
mention?
If the locals are right that the construction is illegal, they
have every right to bitch, moan, protest and maybe even beat some
people up (I’m not privy on Panamanian property rights). If not,
well, maybe it’s worth talking to an expert to discern the
validity of their claims.
Like, would a pier really not help the local community at all?
And would the wave actually be ruined by a channel-bound pier?
This is a reef break after all, so I can’t imagine how the size or
quality of the surf would be affected by a non-swell-blocking
structure. But then what the hell do I know?
Is anybody connected with a lawyer/business
owner/oceanographer from Bocas del Toro?
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Surf Quiz: What Would You Do?
By Derek Rielly
Man stabs you in face with board. Do you jam it
back into his kisser or flee to the cops?
Four days ago, or thereabouts, a fight took
place in the surf at Broken Head, near Byron Bay.
That ain’t a surprise. For all it’s commitment-free sex and the
well-oiled bodies and no bras for the ladies and water so warm it’s
like sloshing around in a tepid bath, the idyll stumbles when it
comes to surfing.
It crowded.
And fights happen.
And so, at Broken Head, one surfer hit another surfer in the
face with his board. From Byron’s local
newspaper, the Northern
Star.
Police said the accused 29-year-old pushed the pointy end of
his surfboard into another man’s face, causing him facial injuries
that bled.
The victim left the surf
to contact police, who arrived shortly after to find the accused in
the surf.
Upon exiting, he was charged with assault occasioning actual
bodily harm, which in NSW carries a maximum penalty of five years
imprisonment.
(Of course, unless the stabber has a roll call of
offences or the stabbee lost an eyeball, or he black, a fine and a
suspended sentence is the most likely outcome.)
Is it ever okay to go to war over something as dumb and
pointless as surfing? Conversely, is it okay to go running to the
cops when things get a little heated?
Let’s examine.
Scenario #1.
It’s a four-foot point. Crowded. But you can get the occasional
runner every half an hour or so. You’ve played it good. You waited
your turn for the sets. You’ve called a few people you don’t know
into waves and you’re feeling real happy about surfing, life,
the world, humanity.
Then, as you paddle into a dreamy set, and as the pack parts
’cause they know you’ve done your time, one determined surfer looks
at you in the eye and windmills into your wave from the shoulder.
He shimmies and jerks and attempts an aerial and lands on your
back.
You surface and he tells you that you are “a fucking kook”.
What do you do?
Scenario #2
You’ve just landed into an Australia summer from gloomy England.
You unpack your Bic mini-Malibu
wahineon the beach and climb into your lycra sun
protection suit.
You can hardly believe your luck. It’s crowded but no one surfs
nearly as good as you. You’re only out for three minutes
when you deftly out-paddle the pack and, despite there being
a local on the inside whom you’d noticed earlier letting waves
go unridden without challenging anyone, you go,
go, go. First a slash, then a kaboosh, a yahoo and then, as your
own flourish, one for the ladies on the beach and the studs out the
back, you soar to the heavens.
You surface to find the local staring obstinately at you. Oh you
let him have it.
“Fucking Aussie kook-man”, “I challenged the wave more than you
and therefore the wave was mine”, and so forth.
He responds by stabbing you in the face with his surfboard.
Do you, a, jam it straight back into his kisser, like, right
into his puss, or do you run off to the police?
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Volcom: “Do a cutback on the war
budget!”
By Chas Smith
French streetwear brand jumps into the political
fray!
Did you spend your morning watching former FBI
director James Comey answer questions about Donald J. Trump? It was
billed as “must-see TV” a “political superbowl” and “like the NCAA
men’s basketball tournament” though in reality it was none of these
things. It was dry like tinder and echoey like a canyon.
Do you now have Donald J. fatigue or can you not get enough? Do
you wake up and Google MAGA or Dump Trump or are you generally
ambivalent?
Do you sometimes wish a surf brand would get into the game an
make a t-shirt for you to wear at rallies (either pro something or
con something) or even just to sit around the house watching Fox
and Friends?
Well guess what? We live in the future where all you desires are
almost immediately gratified!
Volcom has just released a limited-edition political series
under the tag Cancel History Stop Hatred.
T-shirts feature two hands shaking, one sporting a gag buzzer,
above the words “American politics.”
Another says, “Can we please get some peace and quiet around
here?” and has two fingers making a victory sign.
Another says “Do a cutback on the war budget”
By “war budget” do you think Volcom means “military spending” or
is the brand referring to some specific “war budget” it would like
to see cut back?
Wouldn’t it be deliciously cruel if the shirt was referencing
the War on Poverty’s budget and cost $1500.00 and stitched with
gold-dipped yarn and the dashed hopes and dreams of the homeless?
And also had a pocket for opioids?
I suppose that’s why you visit BeachGrit but can’t
you just pretend, for one moment, that you have a heart?