Confessions of a reluctant longboarder: Experimentation
Stage 2
Stage 2
“The most worrisome thing with a clause like this isn’t whether it’s enforceable or not, but that it creates a severe chilling effect on free speech."
"Surfing movie never."
Protracted sale process eventually yields fruit for surfing's undisputed queen of style…
Stage 1
Shane Dorian posits, "There are Indonesians and then there are foreigners. Living there does not make someone a local."
One year later, twice as crowded.
A childhood both difficult and blessed, injuries overcome, a sport dominated.
NOT LEAVING
"It's like when a child repeats something he's heard the adults say which got enthusiastic approval from other grown ups."
World Stonewall League.
Fast times in Latin America.