Rare swell brings pro's to your beach. Do you join
them like man or flee like baby?
Three weeks ago, the New York, Jersey region got blown a
kiss from tropical depression 10, born from the Nor’easter
family. This occurrence is very different from its naughty cousins
(hurricanes) born in Cape Verde, tantrum-ing through the Caribbean
and pumping long period, semi-closed out lines to the north
east.
TD 10, as it’s baptized by the science guys, plays nicer.
It sits benign, off the coast of New York harbor, gently pushing
lines of east-south0-east groundswell with trimmed north (west)
offshore winds. After a summer of knee-high pain barely remedied by
5’6” fishes, New York and Jersey surfers have a legitimate reason
to wax their 6’3”s.
But what if there is a Candyman crawling across the Cross Bronx
Expressway salivating, rubbing his palms, waiting to scoop up all
your sweets? In this case, our specter takes the form of the
Volcom_east team. It’s fingers personified in the form of Mitch
Coleborn, Chippa Wilson and Balaram Stack.
As a local, you know what specific jetty will be working (angle,
buoy reading, wind etc.). Sunrise hours spent inspecting jetties,
groynes and sandbars, compiling secrets over years, are easily
diluted and given up to Volcom via a simple phone call to a local
surf shop owner.
Can’t blame him. If Gordon Ramsey called your kitchen and asked
for your recipe to tuna tar tar, you’d sing faster than a star
witness gifted a million-dollar reward and the promise of
protection from the FBI.
Now, this is a quiz.
So let’s place you in the scene.
You wake up at 5:30 am Sunday. Walk up to a jetty you know will
be firing. You expect to find Christmas morning in September. You
do, but only to discover other kids unwrapping your gifts. You
watch them. Taking off deeper than you ever could, slicing lips
with precision. A cadre of filmers, drones and cheerleaders litter
the sand and lineup hooting and yewww-ing every move like it’s
Super Bowl Sunday.
And a kind of bile sits in your throat. Just when you thought
last week’s three hooks in the pocket were timed perfectly you are
reminded where you sit on the surf-timeline-evolution chart. In
context, somewhere around enlarged forehead and dragging knuckles
.
While there is no shame in “respected, capable local” there is a
sobering effect knowing you can be over run at your home spot.
The next step.
A decision.
Get into the ring and take a chance sparring with nobility and a
good possibility of getting boxed out or head to the kiddie pool
(still a tantalizing three-to-four foot ) where there is still some
sense of perverted pride in saying you’re the best 40 something
among soft toppers, 10-year-olds and very old studs wearing hats
and sunglasses?
Well?
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Arugam Bay: Surfer dies in Croc
Attack!
By Derek Rielly
Don't veer too far away from the popular Sri Lankan
point…
List the ways a surfer can be disappeared and
you don’t, as rule, include death by ancient reptile. But, at the
picturesque righthand point Arugam Bay in Sri Lanka, a wave popular
with beginners and small-wave shredders, you may now include the
crocodile.
A journalist for the Financial Times as well as a newly
annointed surfer, Paul McClean, was staying at a nearby surf
camp, and had gone to the toilet and then went to wash his hands in
a lagoon “known to be crawling with crocodiles,” reports London’s
The Sun.
Fawas Lafeer, owner of Safa Surf School, located up the
coast from where the incident happened, said: “A local fisherman
witnessed a man being dragged into a river, set back from the
beach, by a crocodile. The fisherman was on the opposite side of
the river and downstream of the incident location.”
He added:“This is the first known crocodile attack in Sri
Lanka. Both tourists and locals surf at Elephant Rock, which is a
beautiful secluded beach and very safe.
“Crocodiles in Sri Lanka live only in the fresh, back waters
of the jungle. It is almost unheard of for them to come close to
the beach. The salt water actually turns them blind.
“Local search and rescue teams are working alongside the
police and British Embassy in attempt to locate the man’s
body.”
Meanwhile, a Scottish tourist, who wishes to remain
anonymous, said: “A British tourist was at a surf spot called
Elephant rock.
“There’s a lagoon right next to the sea. He went to the
toilet next to the lagoon and was grabbed by a crocodile.
“There are lots in the lagoon. People last saw his arms in
the air in the water and then was grabbed under. Horrible.
The body of Mr McClean, who was twenty five, is yet to be
recovered.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Hurley Pro # 4: “Filipe New Kelly
Slater!”
By Chas Smith
A day of revelation on the cobbled stones with the
people.
I peeked at my Rolex before the sun came up and
it said, “Get thee to the people.” Not literally of course, though
I do think Rolex would do well incorporating some Marxist design
elements. I sprung out of bed, unfettered by a hangover only having
had three Trust Me vodka and organic
strawberry lemonades the night before.
Completely refreshed, I took the stairs two at a time toward the
kitchen to quickly make a coffee and head out the door. To the
Trestle. To you.
But while the grounds were steeping I became hungry and set
about preparing poached eggs, smoked Scottish salmon, freshly
ground parsley and a quickly whipped hollandaise sauce that would
have made Chef Auguste Escoffier smile.
By the time I started driving Mick Fanning and Kanoa Igarashi
were in the water surfing their heat re-do from yesterday’s
unfortunate mixed call. I didn’t write about
that nor did I see it because I was taking my role as
object lesson to the people’s children in their utopian
professional surf school seriously. Don’t go looking for Coopers
and dance, dear children, lest you become a hungover surf
journalist like me.
Whilst passing the media tent, which had been moved further
south from yesterday’s location inside one of the San Onofre
nuclear power reactors to a structure in the United State’s Marine
base Camp Pendleton, I listened to Kanoa again getting the jump on
Mick with a quick 8 something right at the opening horn. A very
fine wave surfed elegantly.
And the heat ended right as I pulled into the $20 parking lot. I
was clutching my phone, staring holes through the screen as a set
approached, almost running over an electric bicyclist. Kanoa had
surfed a few waves, though the ocean did appear very finicky. Mick
had seemed to be on the same retirement tour as his good friend
Joel, enjoying the gluttony of just sitting in the ocean and not
surfing but there was a one wave set approaching and Mick only
needed a small score to win. He paddled over it and looked casually
out to sea. Into the salad years.
“White lightening is the penultimate competitor. Such a glassy
guy…” Joe Turpel said, or something similarly malapropriate, as I
backed the ’17 Panamera into its spot. “…And now on to the women.
We’ve got Steph Gilmore and coming up next.”
“The women?” I thought but felt energized. “The women! No
possible better way to spend my morning for women are the people
too!” I quickened my pace, winking at the California State Park
policeman who had threatened to give me a ticket when I was driving
in for being on my phone.
Hurrying down the trail, over the trestle and through the reeds
I marveled. It had been naked, scorching sun for the first three
days of the Hurley Pro. Hot unrelenting sun everywhere that the
people stood. But this day God had decided enough is enough and
given the people a VIP tent of their own. High, thickish grey
clouds.
And then I got my first glimpse of Steph Gilmore in the water,
arcing one of the most gorgeous turns I have ever seen in my life.
So fluid, so on rail, such poetry. The finicky waves of Kanoa and
Mick’s heat had given way to pumping oil glass sets and watching
Stephanie bag two nines made me wonder, “Could she compete against
the men at pointbreaks when the surf is head high and perfect?
Could she beat them all?” I know it is unfair to compare men’s
surfing and women’s. They are unique flowers. But Steph’s turns
mesmerized, although Lima won later in the day with more rad.
I was so mesmerized, in fact, that I ran smack dab into
Surfline’s very handsome Marcus Sanders, though he looked
perturbed.
“Heading to the media tent?” I asked.
“Didn’t you hear?” He responded. “The Marines are using it in a
simulation drill for a North Korean invasion. Bombing sorties,
tanks, heavy artillery, battalions of troops running in and all
live fire. I’d be shocked if there are any survivors.”
“But I saw Michael Ciaramella and Morgan Williamson from
Stab there or at least I saw their cars parked near the
Camp Pendleton entrance gate!” I shrieked.
“There’s little hope.” He said while slowly shaking his head.
“Notifications have already been sent to next of kin.”
The news saddened me greatly and I was unable to enjoy any more
of the women’s heats, instead crouching amongst the people and
drawing up plans for Stab-style funerals with a stick in
the dirt. It would have to be something fantastic. Something very
grand. Maybe their ashes could be taken to Uluwatu and shot into
the barrel while Bruce Irons spread his arms blindfolded? Or maybe
their bones could be carved by anonymous surfboard shaper and
tested in the lineup by Taj Burrow?
I was leaning toward the second option when a sort of grinding
sound distracted me. Looking up I saw one of the people’s very
small children sating her hunger by gnawing on a piece of
driftwood. Her precious small teeth working overtime trying to find
some relief for her hunger.
My heart instantly went out to her. Oh the good Lord had
provided shade for the people today but no bread and I had used my
morning’s sandwich making time on hollandaise sauce instead. It is
of course impossible, and not recommended at all, for the
children’s parents to turn away from professional surf action but
still.
Sad.
Suddenly I had an idea. Standing just across the way, talking
important surf business with someone, was Hurley’s Evan Slater. And
in his pant pocket I spied a small glimpse of a VIP wristband.
“Yes!” I thought. “Yes! I will sneak that VIP wristband out of
Evan’s pants and go into the tented areas in order to bring the
people’s children their nutrition! I will be a modern Robin Hood. A
reverse Bernie Madoff lavishing the people with undeserved,
unearned gifts and will become a hero to them but will not allow
them to build statues in my likeness on Lowers’ cobbled stone nor
will I allow HBO to make a special about me starring Alexander
Skarsgård.
“No!” I will shout. “No! Spend your time and energy building
statues of working class hero Stu Kennedy instead for he is not a
real Kennedy but a grimy Australian one. Make HBO specials about
Bede Durbidge starring Rhys Ifans and the people will come.”
I hurried and snuck over to wear Evan was standing, wishing I
had worn the Louis Vuitton drivers of two days ago instead of the
Prada penny loafers of today as they are much softer and quieter.
Better for sneaking. Somehow, though I pulled it off and now had a
silver ’17 WSL GUEST VIP wristband in my possession.
Should I just give it to the people?
No.
The people will get caught very quickly as it will be very
instantly clear they don’t belong. Brazilian flags and dirty Reef
sandals being dead giveaways. They will be ushered out and maybe
ejected from the beach altogether or worse, taken to the remains of
the media tent.
No.
I must go for them and so I marched south with the gilded
paravel directly in my sights. I made it to the stairs and said
hello to Jon Pyzel who was hurrying back toward the competitor’s
area, “John John is in the next heat…” I heard him say.
Which made my mission that much more urgent. Up the stairs I
strode, two at a time, and into the place of earthly delights. An
exclusive eagle’s nest. A perch where the privileged feast upon
handmade breakfast burritos and wash them down with bottomless
Michelob Ultras. Shade. Cushioned couches. Water with hints of
watermelon flavor hidden inside. It had been so long since I’d been
surrounded in luxury I almost forgot how to act, tugging the neck
of my pink Balmain button-down until a few of those buttons popped
off.
But I could not let the people down.
Never.
My people.
And so I hurried to a bowl overflowing with fruit resting on a
silky blue tablecloth. Strawberries and apples, grapes and bananas,
kiwi and dragon fruit. I spotted a juicy pear nestling between a
stack of one-hundred dollar bills and a brick of gold bullion.
Bingo.
I moved with vigor and snatched it then fled as quickly as I
could to the dirt and rock and Africanized trash bees. Stealing
from the rich and bringing to the poor. A modern day Bruce
Springsteen.
By the time I had arrived back where I belonged John John was
indeed in the water, fighting Jeremy Flores and Kanoa Igarashi in
the no losers’ round. I handed the pear to the people’s little
angel and she took it from my palm before letting it roll into the
sand and then a puddle of Monster Energy Drink.
John John, out the back, was doing the most magnificent arcing
turn much like Steph Gilmore’s. The man can do it all. Turn, arc,
carve, barrel and air. The people do not need food when John John
Florence is in the water. The peoples’ little angels can fill their
empty bellies on driftwood and saltwater and greatness instead.
And the rest of the action as witnessed from the shoreline.
Round 4
Heat 3: (Jeremy vs. John vs. Kanoa)
I have disliked this part of the WSL programing, quite publicly,
before but today it was perfect because John John surfed
magnificently, filling the people’s li but Jeremy Flores surfed
more so and Kanoa Igarashi less so. Kanoa had already beat Mick.
John John is John John. Jeremy is revitalized. I wanted to see them
all again and thanks to the format I get to. Egalitarian! Jeremy
won but John made the better turns but look out for Kanoa.
Heat 4: (Filipe vs. Julian vs. Bede)
Julian is surfing at the very top of his game but watching Filipe
in person it almost seems unfair. He sticks 100% of the airs he
throws without any doubt ever. He turns on a rail. He can beat any
section and the people love him. The people, surrounding me,
whooped and hollered his every move in a tongue I couldn’t quite
understand. He has it all. He is the new Kelly Slater and if he can
put his heat strategy together he may soon be completely
unstoppable. Filipe won.
Round 5
Heat 1: (Ace vs. Jadson)
And we are back to the perilous. Lose and go home. The people, of
course, enjoy bloodsport and tension rose amongst them. Jadson,
even though he drives a simple Toyota RAV-4 and is generally one of
their favorites, was simply out-surfed by Ace. The waves were slow
but no care and no matter. Ace for the win.
Heat 2: (Jordy vs. Seb Z.)
Never count Sebastian out. No not ever. Only count him out when
there are no waves and there is 30 seconds left and Jordy Smith is
winning. Is Jordy getting closer to a stranglehold on the
title?
Heat 3: (John vs. Bede)
No not a stranglehold for behold, John John! The man with two
working-class first names! There was a full seventeen minute lull
in the middle here and the people became very uneasy and hungry
once again because of the no surfing. I would have gone to the high
VIP places and brought them steaming pasta alfredo and caviar but…
John John. He is a magician. And I was right not to leave. The
waves turned on and he put on a show that will fill the people’s
bellies until dinner.
Heat 4: (Kanoa vs. Julian)
Very tense. Wrought with tension. Much for you to discuss in the
comments. Kanoa won.
Quarterfinals
Heat 1: (Li’l Plumber vs. Ace)
So close. Heat restart. Ace stoked to be alive on finals day. And
I’ll admit, I’ve left the people. I’ve driven the Panamera home and
am sipping more Trust Me vodka
and organic strawberry lemonades and feeling so invigorated. When
was the last time you were with the people? I’m telling you, their
scent is even more stirring than cocaine.
Heat 2: (Fred vs. Jordan)
Are they the same person or is that the vodka writing? Is Frederico
like Weight Watchers Jordy? The “before” of the “before and after”
Jordy? I passed Jordy on the trail. I was hot. Hurrying. Thinking
about what else I could steal from the rich to give to the poor.
Should I put one of the people in the Panamera and drive him to an
Occupy Wall Street protest? Is Occupy Wall Street still a thing?
Jordy was so crazy focused. He was like a boxer with his hype boys
behind carrying surfboards. Maybe I should ask one of his hype
boys? But they were gone before I could and now he is surfing
against Fred and it is a seesaw battle. Pottz is getting hot.
Bothered. He loves it. Jordy gets a good wave and does a better
claim. Double shaka to chesty.
Oh yes there were no losers today. The people were given
benevolent gifts. Heaven’s shade, man’s pear, Steph, John John and
Filipe’s free and public performance art.
No losers at all.
Except for Jadson, Sea-bass, Bede, Julian, Adriano and Fred.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Hurley Pro Interlude: “The wages of
sin!”
By Chas Smith
What happens when there is too much bawdy
downmarket fun? Come and learn a lesson.
Yesterday was my second full day with the
people and what a day it was. I’ve become addicted to the scent of
paraben-laced spray-on sunscreens. The eau de McDonald’s breakfast
sandwiches. We are the same, you and me. From the tips of our sun
kissed hair to the soles of our Gucci loafers. And as I left Lower
Trestles parking lot I wanted to be with you more. To know the
innermost secrets of your proletarian heart.
But where do you go? McDonalds? I wasn’t hungry having feasted
on the bread of the people all day and also almond butter and
organic raspberry jelly organic bread sandwiches. But I was
thirsty. Yes, extraordinarily thirsty having stood shoulder to
shoulder with you plus our Brazilian brothers and sisters in the
blazing sun. And having eaten an almond butter and organic
raspberry jelly organic bread sandwich.
We all turned our reddening necks, from time to time, and
watched the VIP set sip daintily from a never drying fount of
Michelob Ultra in their shaded villa but there was none for us.
Only the occasional spray from Ace Buchan’s backhand turns.
But now where do you drink? Taverns right? Saloons? Well there
is a saloon very near my home named The Saloon and that’s where I
headed, pushing though the door and into a delightfully rustic
interior expecting to enter the very center of bawdy, downmarket
fun. Like that scene in Titanic where Kate Winslet realizes how
free poor people are.
But you weren’t there. The Saloon was, in fact, empty except for
a very fine man with wonderful taste in preschools who works for
Surfer magazine. We drank Coopers. None of that fancy
Michelob Ultra stuff. Coopers. Coopers after Coopers after
Coopers.
When I woke up in the morning my head pounded. My eyes were red.
My head pounded. Did I already say that? But the people go to work
hungover after nights of bawdy downmarket fun and so off to Lower
Trestles I went.
I got there late, missing out on $20 parking and having to park
near Carl’s Jr thus walking for 30 minutes in the blazing sun.
Still, how could I let one minor inconvenience sour my mood? The
people pick grapes in this blazing sun before attending surf
contests. They scrub Porsches clean in local car washes in this
blazing sun. And so I cuffed my Comme des Garçons trousers and
sallied forth, down the dirt, through the reeds, back to you.
While I was walking Fred Morais was in the water beating Zeke
Lau. Fred Morais is a blue collar name but the beach announcer kept
saying, “There goes Frederico Morais again laying down his patented
long drawn out rail carves…”
One of the great pleasures in attending live surf events is the
beach announcers. They are often funnier than the broadcast
announcers and don’t jibber quite as much. And I liked Fred
Morais’s good working class name but it frustrated me that he
patented the long drawn out rail carve. It seems a very 1% thing to
do. How do you think he collects money on those surfers who
infringe upon his property? Does he fine them per long drawn out
rail carve? And how did he secure that patent ahead of Tom Curren
et. al.?
My head pounded and I had many questions as I posted up next to
a trash can filled with Africanized bees. My eyes burned as the sun
pierced my Tom Ford lenses. The people, all around me, cheering now
for Wiggolly Dantas but also imploring Ace Buchan to cool them with
the spray from his backhand turn started to ring my ears, along
with the angry buzz of Africanized trash bees, and I needed a quick
break so walked aimlessly toward the media tent some 5 miles down
the beach and inside one of San Onofre’s nuclear power
reactors.
I had no intention of actually entering the media tent but old
habits die hard yet as I was walking I saw signs for the Hurley
Surf Club. Now of course this sounds exclusive and elitist but when
I arrived discovered that Hurley provides an onsite school, free of
charge, for children set on becoming professional surfers.
That’s right free. A Bernie Sanders dream come true.
Beanbag chairs are scattered on the floor and white boards
intermix with big screen televisions on the walls. Instructors
pause videos of the live action and show the children, sitting
everywhere in half-stripped wetsuits and trunks, where the surfers
legs are, where their arms are, where their eyes are looking. There
is also video of the children shot just moments earlier and the
instructors give real time analysis.
My heart melted.
An institution for the people’s children! For the fruit of the
working class!
I pressed in further. Every boy and girl was staring at the
screen, taking it all in, learning. Loving it. Loving learning. I
have never seen a better thing at a surf contest. No not ever. A
room packed with hungry learners being gifted a free education.
And I pressed in further still, almost stepping on one young
boy. He looked at me with horror in his eyes. All of them did. “Let
them stare…” I said to myself “…let them feast their eyes upon me.
Hungover, red-eyed, sweaty. Let them absorb what they will become
if they drop out of professional surf school and become a surf
journalist instead. Let them gaze upon me and let them smell the
Coopers on my breath. For this is what happens, children, when
bawdy downmarket fun gets in the way of a proper education.”
And I stayed there for much of the day, sunk in a beanbag chair,
missing the rest of the action.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Interview: “I Splashed Gabriel
Medina!”
By Chas Smith
Meet the man who "baptized" Gab Medina!
Heroes aren’t born they are made. They are made
one hammer swing at a time. One CPR chest compression. One throw,
one catch, one epic splash.
Oh you saw.
You saw Gabriel Medina one Saturday morning in San Clemente
dropping in on a strong-jawed man. You saw the strong jawed man not
give up but rather race down the line trying to catch up. You saw
Gabriel’s air reverse and then you saw the splash. Maybe even felt
the splash.
But let us speak with John from San Clemente. Let us ask him how
it felt.
“Yeah, it was a pretty crowded day. Saturday morning just piled
out. I was messing around on my log. Gab paddled out after I caught
about three waves and just sat right behind me. I went and then he
dropped in. I could tell he saw me. At first I thought I could
catch up and spear him off his board. I’m kind of half back then he
did that stupid air reverse and we both went down. When we popped
up I laid into him. Checked him. He didn’t react at all when I
shoved him and I was saying stuff in his face too. No reaction
though.
“I lost my board and had to go in and get it. Had a feeling
people were filming so when I paddled back out I thought I’ve got
to blast him. I have lived in San Clemente my whole life. Everybody
thought that clip was at Lowers but I never surf there. It was at
T-Street. I was surfing the log that day but primarily I’m a
bodyboarder. Funny, huh. I used to compete and still do from time
to time. And with that whole thing… the shove and splash… I would
never do that to one of the local guys. To the Gudangs or anyone.
But you can’t just blow in and do that. Gabby’s got a reputation
you know? You gotta baptize the savages.”
Shortly after the interview, John texted the following bullet
points.
1.) I can’t believe the responses on social media!
2.) I identify mostly as a bodyboarder and resort to surfing as
another challenge when the waves are too small to drag.
3.) I was purposely trying to catch up with him to go for the
tackle, kinda bummed I didn’t…the clip would have been way
cooler!
4.) When I kicked out and he didn’t land the rev, I shoved him and
wrote him off, lost my board then paddled back out for the
splash.
5.) Gabe played dumb the whole time. Said he thought I was going
left.
6.) Surfing sucks.
Now, watch as Gabriel runs over a surfer at Lowers.
Watch Gabriel do air on man!
John. A hero from through eternity.
John. My favorite surfer.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros