Look down to the WQS then batten down the
hatches!
Have you been tracking these hurricanes,
Harvey, Irma and Jose? Watching them form, bob, weave, dissipate
and grow? It’s fascinating and what’s most fascinating is they way
they defy prediction. The experts, weathermen, etc. can all
postulate all they want but the storm decides what its going to do
and only decides at the very last second.
Much like the Brazilian Storm!
Do you remember the predictions of Brazilian dominance from five
or such years ago? They were going to win, win, win, win, win, win,
win. There was going to be so much winning that the country of
Brazil would be sick of winning.
Gabby won and it seemed on. Adriano won and it seemed go-ish
time but then… stall. John John took the wind and it seems as if
all the winning was overstated. I mean, I guess two out of three
ain’t bad but it never seemed… dominant.
But maybe just maybe we were tracking the wrong Brazilian Storm?
Maybe the Gabriel Medina led hurricane wasn’t the one?
For if you look down at the WQS all you see is Brazil.
Jesse Mendes
Yago Dora
Alain Delon
Michael Rodrigues
Willian Cardoso
Jean Reno
Tomas Hermes
Alejo Muniz
Jean-Luc Godard
Yves Montand
Bino Lopez
Crazy no? Most of these will be filling into the Championship
Tour in the coming two years and then will a non-Brazilian ever win
again?
Actor/Director Simon Baker says its true! Which of
our surf stars should head to the silver screen?
I have never read a Tim Winton book but I think
he is kind of a big deal in Australia and writes about surfing… or…
surf. Or… you know, something. His novel Breath might be
his biggest hit. Should we read its back?
When Loonie and Pikelet started to surf, they cycled from
Angelus to the beach with their styrofoam boards, buffeted by the
wind and, when they finally get to the sea, the waves. They
couldn’t help it: they were terrified; they were addicted.
Among the local surfers, one guy stood out. He turned up
alone, when the swell was highest, and left the rest of them for
dead. Gradually Loonie and Pike got to know this loner, Sando, who
took them under his wing. Half a lifetime later, Pike can’t free
himself from where the ride took him.
Does it make you want to purchase? Does it sound erotic? Well,
famous Australian actor Simon Baker has turned the book into a film
also called Breath so you can watch instead. Let’s quickly read
about that now.
“What was I thinking?” jokes Baker, recalling the decision
to make his directorial debut with Breath, which premieres in
Toronto. The film, which Embankment is selling worldwide, is an
adaptation of the 2008 novel by Tim Winton, a coming-of-age tale
about teen surfers in 1970s Australia. The movie stars two
non-actors in the lead roles, and Baker shot the whole thing in six
weeks, mainly on location on Australia’s west coast.
“Here I am, never having directed a film before, dealing
with kids who’ve never been on a film set before, and we’ve got the
ocean — which can’t be controlled and is such a key factor in the
story — and we’ve got almost no time to do it,” he recalls. “I
thought, ‘I’m probably going to fail miserably, but I’m going to
have a great time trying.’ ”
But Baker did have one advantage: He knew the world
described in Breath inside out. Because he lived it. Like Pikelet,
the film’s narrator and main character, Baker grew-up amid the
“crass machoism” of 1970s Australia with the twin loves of surfing
and the arts.
“I’ve been surfing since I was 10,” he recalls. “When I read
Tim’s novel I found myself weeping out of empathy for friends I
grew up with. I was living in America at the time, and his words
evoked the things I missed most (about home), the everyday sights
and smells of the growing up in Australia at that time, for those
of us who discovered the ocean and surfing played a big part in the
formation of our identity.”
For the leads, teen surfers Pikelet and Loonie, Baker cast
Samson Coulter and Ben Spence. While neither had ever acted before,
both knew their way around a board.
“I needed kids who can handle themselves in the ocean,” says
Baker. “It’s a lot easier to act than it is to surf.”
Wait… what? It’s a lot easier to act than it is to surf? That
just can’t be true. Simon Baker must never have seen In God’s
Hands.
But let’s pretend it is easier to act then to surf. Which of our
WSL heroes would you most want to see in a feature film? Gabby?
Jordy? Who?
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Sherm: “The best photo I ever shot!”
By Chas Smith
Iconic surf photographer discusses the tragic death
of Zander Venezia.
You have most certainly read about the very sad
death of sixteen-year-old surfer Zander Venezia in Barbados by now.
The young man was surfing the first bands of Hurricane Irma energy
off the island country’s east coast with a handful of stars.
According to Jimmy Wilson, who was there shooting, he caught a
wave, made it out the back and then told people he was going in.
His surfboard was later spotted tombstoning and he was pulled from
the water unconscious. He was declared dead at the hospital from
complications due to a broken neck.
Tragic and also part of this life we live. Shallow reef, slabs,
giant monstrous waves, sharks, sandbars… our playground is littered
with menace and it is a wonder more surfers are not brought
low.
Steve Sherman, the iconic surf photographer, has been in the
game for as long as anyone can remember and has seen much glory and
much tragedy. He took the last portrait of Andy Irons and at the
U.S. Open of Surfing he took the last portrait of Zander Venezia
and I think he has a unique perspective worth sharing.
I met him two weeks ago doing assignment for the WSL.
Set up a studio down there to get portraits of all the WQS kids.
Got portraits. I remember meeting him. Good looking kid. Real
professional. I was shooting 128 portraits and he stuck out because
he was wearing a Hurley shirt and because he photographed
beautifully. Every shot was perfect. I didn’t put two and two
together for a few days.
Jimmy shot his last. I had a conversation with him right
after it happened. About a time we were surfing a slab in Bali and
how crazy it was. I got caught inside and… its just crazy how close
death is to surfing.
My emotion? Just… sadness. We’re a tribe and when a surfer
dies everyone feels it. I’ve been around for too many of them. Shot
all of them. Todd Chesser, Donny Solomon, AI…I’ve lost a lot of
friends. There’s a lot more I worry about And it’s just this weird
feeling of… fuck. To have photographic evidence, it becomes
important all of a sudden. This photo of this kid shot becomes
important. I got to celebrate his life by barely knowing him. and
that makes it way better than anything I’ve shot.
In terms of dying, as a surfer, if you can go doing what you
love then maybe that’s better than dying from a car wreck or
cancer.
I know this is a week old but sometimes it
takes me a while to get around to things. You know? I get busy
yelling at the neighborhood yard men for going on 45 minute leaf
blower binges. Just sitting there with leaf blowers whining away.
Just blowing stuff this way then that way then this way then that
way.
You know?
So I miss things but late last night I finally got around to
Osmo Thrombo, Volcom’s latest offering, and it is fun. It is fun in
a classic Volcom kind of way. A kind of way that’s been missing for
a while. It made me remember how much I like their team.
Do you like their team? Mitch, Ozzy, etc.? I think Noa Deane
fits in real nice, say what you will cruel bastard.
Bruce should still be there.
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Sabre Norris: “I just went snow
surfing!”
By Sabre Norris
Tiny tot TV superstar takes surf game to the
mountains…
I’ve always wanted to go snowboarding but I
thought it would never happen because, uh, well, money.
There are six people in my family and we only ever go on surf
holidays because you don’t have to pay to ride waves.
Never did I expect, not even in my wildest dreams and I do have
some wild dreams, that the Olympic gold medallist Torah Bright
would invite me and my family to the snow for free.
So for the first time in a long time, I want to say ‘ever’ but
maybe that’s being too dramatic our black Volkswagen van
left our house without the usual smell of wee wafting thick in
the air.
The wee smell is what evaporates off from the wetsuits that live
in the boot of our car. But we were going on a holiday to
Thredbo, in the Australian snowy mountains, to see snow for the
first time and we had swapped our rubber wetsuits for warm snow
gear.
The car trip down was filled with excitement, anticipation and
sprays of vomit from my sister Naz who always gets car sick
when she plays the iPad.
We had just counted our fifth dead kangaroo on the side of
the road when I caught my first glimpse of snow. We
screamed, clapped and bouncing.
A couple of minutes later we arrived at our accommodation. The
car park outside our hotel was stuffed
full with Porsches, BMWs and Audis. Rich people
country.
Just as I started counting the Porsches I had this
feeling that started at my toes and ended at my heart. I couldn’t
believe people I’d never met before would pay for not only to come
to the snow but to stay in the fanciest accommodation with all the
rich people.
What did I know about Torah?
She had an Olympic gold medal and that was two shades better
than the Olympic medal my Dad had won. Also, Torah’s medal was from
a much cooler sport than the swimming medal we have at home.
The next day my brother woke me up at three am and we both
couldn’t get back to sleep. I had the same type of excitement
inside me that I get on Christmas morning, except instead
of a lounge room full of presents we would get a mountain full of
snow and a special gift of meeting Torah Bright.
Finally, the sun rose and sprinted to the free buffet breakfast
with the mission of trying to stuff ourselves with that much
food we wouldn’t have to buy lunch on the mountain.
Snowboarding vs surf? Hmmm. It’s super fun but it isn’t as easy
as it looks. At the beach, I watch the people learning to surf and
wonder how they could possibly be that bad.
But in the snow I was a beginner. And a bad beginner. My legs
shook with worry. The reason Torah had asked me to the
snow was because I can surf. I felt that once she saw me
on a snowboard she’d lose all her respect for me.
Torah, of course, has the soul of a mother (and didn’t care if I
was a kook) which is weird for two reasons.
Reason 1) She doesn’t have any kids.
Reason 2) Her cuddles feel firm instead of the usual
soft fluffy fat feel that mums always have.
Torah’s one of those people that you instantly feel
comfortable with and you can just
be yourself around. She’s
not a judgy person who would tell me that I’m not as
funny as what I looked like on Ellen or anything like
that.
Torah says she’s going to be more proud of becoming a mum than
of her golden Olympic medal. That surprised me because it seems
like it’s easy to become a mum. You see them
everywhere and most people do it but it seems a fair bit
harder to win an Olympic medal.
It wasn’t long till I had cleverly positioned myself right next
to Torah on the chair lift. The chair lift was the perfect place to
get to know someone as the person you are interrogating is stuck
and unable to escape.
I told Torah I loved the picture on her
snowboard. It was her own custom design that featured a deer and a
bear. The bear’s head was on top of the deer and in
the background there was snow glistening in the night
time. The story behind it is that it represents her love for
her husband Angus, she is the bear and her husband Angus is
the deer. The animals represent their personalities. When you
see Torah and Angus together it looks like their hearts are tied
together with rope.
Torah spent the next couple of hours hanging out with us kooks
on the beginner slope called Friday Flats. Her happiness
made me feel like hanging out with us on was not painful
and that maybe it was even fun.
The day with Torah ended in a blink and so did
our special holiday. Soon, enough we were in our black
van heading back to Newcastle. In between counting the
third and fourth dead kangaroo on the way
home I was thinking about something Torah had told
me.
Torah says she’s going to be more proud of becoming a mum than
of her golden Olympic medal. That surprised me because it seems
like it’s easy to become a mum. You see them
everywhere and most people do it but it seems a fair bit
harder to win an Olympic medal.
But Torah reckons medals don’t give you a kinder heart or make
you a better person so they don’t matter that much.