Famous egger tees off!
I have known of professional surfer Devon Howard for some time but never really considered him until just months ago when podcast impresario David Lee Scales mentioned to me that Devon loves egg shaped surfboards. “He argues that they work very well in the right conditions…” David Lee said and that was enough to absolutely infuriate me.
Eggs, you see, are my third least favorite thing to see in any lineup. The first is SUP, second is high performance longboard, third is egg. To my mind eggs exist solely for overweight 50 year-olds to catch waves they should not catch. A baby-boom’d crutch. Like Viagra.
And so there I sat, infuriated, hissing the name “Devon Howard” under my breath like Seinfeld hissed the name “Newman.”
Devon Howard.
And then I met the man for beer and salad and could not have been more pleased. Devon moves through the world much like the Rajneesh. A sort of benevolence radiates. He is well-spoken, intelligent, funny and best of all has a rhino thick skin. Not literally, of course, his skin did not even show any ugly cancers, but metaphorically. He gets it. He gets it all.
It was, therefore, with great pleasure that I spent two hours listening to him during the course of the bi-weekly recording of the podcast Grit!
I recommend you to listen too and if you need a nudge, here you go. Devon loves Hypto-Kryptos, Mossimo denim from Target and homemade sunscreen. Devon hates if you try to talk with him, or with anyone else, in the line-up.
I dare you to paddle over and say “hi.”
Devon Howard knows what’s up.
Who said that Cardiff isn’t good enough for shortboards?! I happen to shred in the most mediocre way possible on my 5’8. Don’t judge me
I just ate a salad with a beer. It had fried chicken on it though.
The council approves.
Devon brings a degree of level mindedness I don’t really appreciate with my fortnightly Grit.
Not as weird as thinking he’ll get past 50 and not need viagra after sucking lung lollies for the past 30 years
I’m mere minutes away from paddling out on a 7’2″ egg, on which I’ll surf better than 84.7% of the surfers sharing the lineup.
Oh I’m in the minority apparently who like some chat in the lineup. The places I surf are small towns, not so crowded most days. You can’t get in with those crews without knowing some people, and you can’t know some people if you don’t say hi, what’s up, ask a question or two. Unless you’re from one of those insular little towns like Chas, you will spend the rest of your surf-life being “them” if you don’t chat a little. Being one of “us” is far far better.
Maui too, small town sort of place, line ups quite chatty. Locals politely catch up with each other about the mundane aspects of life in that charming Hawaiian way – “hey Uncle how is Kalani doing at college?” Generally, and surprisingly, they’re interested in talking to you too. I find this both refreshingly un-jaded and useful – life gets easier when the regulars see you as a person, not just annoying mainland kook #3,453,561.
I hope the first place i bump into one of you is the men’s restroom
Kinky.
Joel Tudor is a must on the podcast anytime soon! Never had the pleasure of meeting the man but he seems like the kid who was bullied all his life learns a martial art and now is gung ho to use it. His opinions are as varied as the wind direction. I personally don’t get the ride a 40 pound log deal but if that’s his bag go for it. I’d pay money to see him rip a modern shortboard just to shut up the naysayers on his abilities. He is truly the angry old man of social media. Or maybe it’s the pot talking
Only listened to 25 mins so far.
Pedantic asshoke: sorry Devon but foilers don’t ‘literally’ have a samurai sword on the bottom of their board.
Be hilarious if they literally did.
Not sure that would add much to the lift qualities.
/p. asshoke.
Tune in next week when PA takes on “very unique.”
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fella surfs waaaaaaaaay better on an egg (or any board) than 99.9% of angry hamstrung scupper equipped with the latest carbon-infused vanilla H.P. shorty available. period.
la la la eggs la la i can’t hear you la la la (fingers in ears)
Hmm, I’d say we have our share of shit sessions just like dudes do. Maybe we are just socialized to cover it more. Idk.
Hey Chas, given that you are still out of the water, is an egg board the only thing you will be able to paddle once you get the all clear from the doc?
They are there, but as per WSL rules, you are unable to look at them while they are duck diving or bottom turning. In fact, it is probably safe to just ignore them completely in and out of the line up.
The Joel Tudor appearance on The Grit must happen! So many layers to peel away with Chas, David, and him altogether in one podcast. Please let’s make thus happen guys.
Not on my watch.
The advice for Chas to not ride an egg in small waves was spot on. Good discussion.
I’m wearing zinc to bed now.
Be great if Devon was a reoccurring guest, oh yeah, congratulations omelette, you won a pair of new shades!