More secrets revealed on Dan Thomson's latest planing hull design…
I won’t lie. Having the great Miki Dora accuse me of self aggrandisement, name dropping and providing minimal info on the board (Cymatic) was a kick in the nuts with a steel-capped boot.
He even vomited over the one positive comment my Bribie mate had given me in 40 years ( ollowed by calling me a useless cunt for not keeping on top of the regrowth from the Camphor laurels he chainsawed for me in December).
The real kicker, though, was being viciously impugned for not supporting my local surfboard shapers/builders.
Granted this board was made in Thailand, but seeing as the design, refinement and testing has all happened within a stone’s throw of my crib and I’ve known the bloke responsible for > 20 years, it was a bitter pill to swallow and, I think, quite unfair criticism.
Granted this board was made in Thailand, but seeing as the design, refinement and testing has all happened within a stone’s throw of my crib and I’ve known the bloke responsible for > 20 years, it was a bitter pill to swallow and, I think, quite unfair criticism.
Given the first person account is the only honest way forwards and the Indian will always trump the arrow, a more techno/historical description follows, including an update with Powerdrive fins from Mark Thomson, designed and built in Lennox Head.
The theoretical roots of the modern Planing Hull design lie in the work done by the redoubtable Professor Lindsay Lord of MIT, whose book Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls laid out some of the hydrodynamic properties of same. Glibly summarised, his chief finding was that short, rectangular hulls with wide sterns were the most efficient planing devices.
Lord’s planing hull Bible was discovered by prototypical Californian Bob Simmons, an architect of the surfing lifestyle and famous for leaving a trail of oranges along the southern Californian coast. It was Simmons who declared the surfboard to be a planing hull and began the process of incorporating Lord’s methodologies and results into the surfboard.
Dan Thomson was dragged into the Simmons orbit via Richard Kenvin in the process of making the great unfinished cinematic epic about Simmons titled Hydrodynamica. Dan took the straight-railed Lis fish into the realm of the modern high-performance shortboard via a process too lengthy to describe here.
Its performance capabilities have been described: super fast off-the-mark planing speed and incredible manoeuvrability. Its flaws: steering control in turns and obligate short-arc surfing. Redress via fin experimentation was attempted.
Its performance capabilities have been described: super fast off-the-mark planing speed and incredible manoeuvrability. Its flaws: steering control in turns and obligate short-arc surfing. Redress via fin experimentation was attempted.
Mark, or Carcass as he is colloquially known, had seen the Cymatic in action and assured me the power drive fin, a kind of hockey stick template fin, would fix the steering problem. Days later, in the North Wall carpark a black Beamer pulled up beside me and Carcass handed me a package of fins out the window.
“Try these,” he said, “and let me know how they go.”
Today, in perfect zippering head-high Point surf they were tested. The board still paddled like a wet sock. Lady Luck and a little cunning strategy* in a thick crowd saw a set wave nabbed. The lack of fin base felt a little spongey through the opening high-line drives, to deter would be assassins from intruding.
The board whipped through a top-turn cutback and came straight back off the whitewater knuckle with control. More set waves followed. Steering was improved. A sizzling little session, for sure. A real little stoke-out. I did not fall.
Is this infomercial? I don’t know if these fins are for sale. Talking to others who had ridden confirmed my experience of improved control at speed. If you are on the modern planing hull trip you could try Googling it.
On the way up the path, in the shade of a cottonwood canopy, I chatted to a new German friend, in booties and helmet, also on a Cymatic. He said he was a surf refugee. I felt compassion, brotherhood, but still faintly disgusted by the protective gear and the white puffy feet.
What’s so wrong with shedding a little blood to do what you love?
*The frog in the Hole strategy. The frog waits in the hole, just too deep and off the take-off. Ignored, asleep: the frog launches out of the hole to nab the fly.
if they are so great, how come I have never seen anyone surf well on them?
next week Longtom in keeping with nepotism is to review Mark ‘carcass’ Thomson’s latest ‘Hot and Glassy’ model the ‘Ironing board’ at least it will be shaped and glassed locally even if the ideas came from overseas. And on a more personal front Longtom hits his affiliate marketing target and is granted a heavily discounted day pass to kellys wave world and a reach around from the king himself.
don’t we have to be related for it to be nepotism?
Even if the King himself bent down and gave me a reach around I will not darken the doorway of the tub.
definition of confusion , fathers day in byron bay
I feel sure if he got me in that position he would drown me…..
he will greet you and welcome you into his fathers home https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
I like the Simmons thing. I understand mini simmons are absurdly short for a reason, but I dont like short AF boards. I got a 5’5ish dims stretched into a 6’0″ by my local guy. Bob simmons had em’ from 8ft to 10ft so I thought I was only a little slippery mid length. Travel board for the smallest ripples possible. I dont want to get skunked by small waves overseas. Am I a fool? Idk but thing flies as much as it pearls
I have never ever ever ever ever ever seen someone surfing well on a mini simmons. Ever.
https://vimeo.com/56040503
rasta at lennox. be enlightened, my friend.
Rasta doesn’t count.
The director of sustainable surf absolutely shreds a mini simmons.
Well if we take the other replies into consideration we now have four or five people on the planet who apparently surf well on a mini simmons – not exactly what I would call a breakthrough
Haha, very true, I’ve only seen one person in my entire life shred a mini-simmons, and he rips on anything he surfs. But i know he put a few years into his mini-simmons before I saw him absolutely owning huge point break surf – massive grab rail turns, barrel riding, etc: blew my mind.
M. Stewart?
Sorry, it’s sustainable coastlines; the director Kahi Pacarro absolutely shreds on anything.
Sustainable Surf co founder M. Stewart is a friend no relations to M. Stewart bodyboarder, body surfer… other than they share a name.
But, I grew up watching spencer skipper and mike stewart; those two are bananas.
Depending on what you want to see? Im more into the glide than anything, bottom turns way out in the flats with plenty of speed on the smallest waves. But I dont surf well by progressive standards
Or any standards
By well I mean not nursing the fuck out of the board to make it do anything other than track in a straight line.
I suppose the joy is nursing something that flat along so you can feel how well it planes? Different strokes..
“progresive strandards” are only invented by the industry. Its all about the speed, glide, smooth transitions and deep bottom turns and holding the high line as long as possible for me. Most modern pro style surfing looks spastic to me.
Yeah the Pass is full of cunts like you takin highlines throwing ya hands up in the air every time ya steer ya board to the top of a crumbling 2 foot lip looks fucken sick ay
My inner Viking goes nuts when i see wanna be “soul” surfer kooks doing those weird spastic totally contrived moves that they think look cool. I’m such a non-violent full-on aloha dude, but when I see that shit I really just want to smash their boards into a hundred pieces. Fucking dorks, wearing their super short shorts to show their thigh tattoos, talking about the crappy ass log they shaped, as they paddle around everyone as if they’re fucking Miki Dora. Jesus, those guys are such kooks. What’s even worse, is here in the States, it seems like our kooks are trying to be like the Pass kooks. They’re like double kooks. Fucking hell.
It is a scourge my brother.
The answer may lay within the classic movie “The Purge” or something I cant remember but the premise is one day a year you are allowed to recompense by any means of violence a years worth of any cunt being basically shit and making your life sad
It should be implemented at all quality breaks world wide.
Haha, I totally overreacted in my comment.
meet me at 10′ hanalei and we’ll see who has balls and who doesnt
Meet me 10am Rainbow Surf Club and I’ll gladly punch port holes thru ya cunt
Make sure ya not late either, I gotta 80sqm stick down cashy round the corner I wanna be out of by happy hour and back at the club ya dickhead.
lol. threats of violence when I call out your surfing ability!
meet you at your club? Thats so brave of you!
surf shoulder high waves with a thousand other sheep like you?
no thanks.
when you are ready to surf waves more than head high you can come surf with me and show me that your not really just a keyboard warrior kook.
Sterling Spencer. Present moment, wonderful moment – vimeo.
Imagine the lives that would be saved on K2 or Everest if everyone packed a Cymatic! Brilliant idea.
no
Potential title;
“See the World, they said”
With your host, Longtom.
You know what Long T? The only guy who looks comfy on these is Stu Kennedy. Fits him like a glove unlike Slater who is brilliantly fighting the board to work. Why is Ke11y handicapping himself, who knows, but the eye test for any performance is how smooth the sleds look through different transitions…. and they don’t look smooth except short arcs under the hook for everyone I’ve seen not named Stu.
Was in Indo last October and a kid packed a bag full of Tomo’s….. I could have sold him a Merrick for a thousand dollars US by the third day…. he was getting mowed by bad decisions, timing and lack of projection.
I think you are right, and that is a big problem for the board: they don’t look like they feel underfoot./
hey you surfed great! nice work there
They look shit under feet, sounds harsh, but true. Look at Kelly’s surfing on his CIs compared to these super short hull experiments and you’ll note how MUCH better his surfing looks on the CIs. There’s no doubt a reason the top CT surfers, many whose very hand to mouth livelihood depends upon their surfing standard, are not riding them (note Stu didn’t re-qualify…..)
I gots to agree.
The omni is great, big and small carves, just very fast and on rail. It does go better on 4 large rigid quad fins: they give you extra speed on the small and extra grip on the big. My board is tiny for my 90 kgs at 32 litres, but it still goes like a cat on fire, hopefully with more poise.
Perhaps this “feel” maybe has something more to do with the board being a stringerless? The T. Patterson I’m currently on (high-density foam stringer) responds unlike any other board I’ve ever ridden!
Baha best name award lol
It’s summer here and the warm-water bootie people are out in force. 😀
Simmons is cool. There’s a 50’s-era Simmons with an-almost silk fabric on the glass job in one of our local shops. It’s pretty rad. Planing things are so fast and so weird, I wish I understood them better.
Are we now saying that fins are really important and any board could be magic if only I buy the right fins?
Also, what happened with the wife sexing? Were you replaced by the rugby player? Did the fins help in the sack?
I appear to be still in the marital bedroom.
I’m a fan of fins…..I think almost any hull can be tuned/improved via fin tinkerin.
ha wait , have you moved fin positions in the water and tuned them into your surfing?
no, trying to track down some C drives as we speak though.
The mask worn by anonymous looks very rubberbandits
it answers the question how does one get filmed surfing and not get cross-indexed to the sex offender registry
Greenough’s fin template, and don’t let Carcass convince you otherwise. Look like they work though so who cares (actually, Carcass cares).
Professor Lord of MIT? Could that sound more pretentious?
…..okay. Back to reading.
Your resolve to ignore the …..
Signs, signs, everywhere there’s signs
Fuckin’ up the scenery, breakin’ my mind
Do this, don’t do that, can’t you read the sign
…..is inspiring.
In Germany he would be known as » Herr Professor Doktor Lord von MIT ».
Genau!
I know two . One a retired specialist of Scandinavian languages and another a genius at laparoscopy of Palestinian origins . I call them Steph and Ibby .
In France it would be Professor Docteur MICLIT!
Bummer the waves we get in sydney barely get bigger than this, not sure if it’d be a good everyday board?. This pic is firewire’s recommended ideal wave.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Did you surf it in anything smaller than 3ft longtom? if so how did it go
pretty much 2-3 to 6ft, as per the wave range.
but it’s surf season here.
I would think a tasty rip bowl would be fun.