Thoughts on a new friend.
We met in the back of a non-descript warehouse, the sort where all kinds of things are made and stored and sold. I handed her a envelope stuffed with cash and she carefully counted it out. It felt like a drug deal. I was picking up a board, which maybe isn’t all that different for people like us.
On the way, I’d lost myself in an island chain of strip malls looking for a bank. All the buildings looked the same. Who can possibly find anything in such a place? I made more wrong turns than I’d like to admit. I am bad at following directions, which I’m guessing won’t come as a surprise to any of you. But I found my way to my new surfboard.
I’d met Christine Brailsford Caro earlier this spring, while working on a story for Red Bull’s magazine, the Red Bulletin. A friend of mine who has an eye for this kind of thing, told me to check out Furrow, which is the name Caro uses for her boards. “She’s this rad shaper down in San Diego. Her boards look epic.” My friends text like this. I can’t help it. But I do tend to trust their judgment when it comes to surfboards.
When I went to interview Caro, we sat outside Moonlight Glassing where she shapes and she told me how she grew up an artist. She made wood carvings and her first boards were made from wood: an alaia, a series of over-engineered handplanes (“They have little rails, they don’t really need little rails”), and zippy little paipos.
A friend wanted a board and offered to pay for the materials. After that, Caro was hooked. The second board she made was for herself: a 5’9” stubby design with a glass-on fin.
“I guess you’re supposed to keep your first surfboard. This is my second surfboard, so I guess I have to keep it. One day, I’m going to find some kid that’s worthy and I’m going to give it to them.”
Caro is forthright that she’s not a shortboard shaper. Thrusters aren’t her thing. She’s interested in the wild, innovative period of design between the longboard era and the shortboard revolution. Not surprisingly, she cites Greenough as an influence. “He made this v-spoon and he was able to do these wrapping turns that no one had ever seen before.” The first board she loved riding was a fish.
Now, you will all be rolling your eyes. Like, what is going on? Why is she writing about a fish shaper? She said she hated fish. She said she hated fish and was never riding a fish again. She said they make her arms do weird things. They do! It’s true that riding a fish does make my arms do weird things. But I’m trying to overcome these feelings. Rainbows. Unicorns. Peace. Love. Kale. And fish.
At the time I interviewed Caro, I had an obsession. I wanted a super short small wave board. I blame the diabolical geniuses at Catch Surf for this desire. Last summer one of my editors wanted a fun, beach-surf story and I suggested soft-tops. I’d ride them and write about them. Easy, I thought.
Then I rode a Catch Surf Beater for the story. And then, I kept riding it. It was aesthetically questionable — and became even more so with time. Also, I got like zero respect in the lineup. A chick on a boogie board. Awesome.
So when Caro said she liked making short, fast boards, I figured, here was the solution. I’d have her make me a tiny board. A twin fin. It would be fast and slidey. We emailed back and forth. Two fins. 4’10” long. 20” wide. A moon-shaped tail. I told her to put the volume wherever she felt it would work best. I picked a blue resin tint almost exactly the shade of a Tiffany box.
I drove to the industrial park with my envelope full of cash. It fits snugly under my arm, this baby twinnie. The color looks amazing. Caro shaped a single concave bottom with the cutest little v between the fins. There’s a tiny short rail line and a round nose. The tail is wide with a killer moon-shaped cut-out. When I met Chas for lunch later, he insisted on smelling it. At least he didn’t lick it.
I didn’t expect it to matter to me that a woman had made my board. I love gossiping with my usual shortboard shaper and he makes me lovely, precisely tuned boards. But somehow, there’s something special about this one. It’s the first time I’ve had a board made by a woman who loves playing in the waves just like I do. I guess it’s a kind of kinship, a meeting of kindred spirits. I can’t quite explain it. It just is.
I rode the board last night and it’s screaming fast. I giggled madly. It’s giving me the best kinds of ideas. Boards should give you ideas — the more improbable, the better.
Caro named her boards Furrow for the lines farmers cut into their fields to plant their crops. She describes a furrow as a path and sees her boards as seeds.
“One of my goals is to bring joy and positive energy into the world with what I create. And that’s what I feel like with my boards. You know, I’m not doing anything amazing or miraculous. I’m not saving lives or anything. I’m just hoping it’ll give someone this experience of joy that they can take with them in their lives.”
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Jesus said:
“If you do not live here than do not surf here.”
Looks gorgeous Jen.
Let rip.
Oh shit, is fedora doing it wrong? I think I need a how-to, so I can hipster properly.
Oh that would be hilarious! Since they don’t even send me press releases, I don’t think I’m going to get invited to surf there any time soon, though. Oops.
But I will definitely take this little thing to one of my friendly neighborhood point breaks where I do not need an invitation and do the thing.
In more new board news, I got a call from my shaper yesterday. Board is ready for glassing and he needed spray details.
Just wondering if I should get in now and do the review a la channelbottom before it turns up?
Love it when Chas writes articles and uses a pen name to publish.
Somehow I feel like this wasn’t a compliment 👀
there is a rumor that you are actually an alter ego of Chas and are not a real person
there is a delightful surrealism to this rumor!
Serious question: I’ve been surfing all my life, and I don’t understand what front foot surfer means? Here’s why: in order to manuever my boards (single fin, thrusters, etc.), I have to use my back foot, so aren’t we all back foot surfers? My front foot is used for leveraging the rail and stabilizing the front end. I’m sure there’s probably a good explanation out there somewhere but I figure you could distill it for me?
Oh jeez. Forget “foot” and think about weight. Where’s your weight going in relation the board’s rocker and outline curves? Put the weight on a straight bit and you will go straight. Put the weight on a curve and you will turn. Many turns initiate with weight on the tail curve and shift up and back along the board’s line. Some turns initiate with weight on a forward edge, carried back toward the tail as the turn evolves. Some boards are designed to respond to weight thrown a bit more forward than others.
For more information, refer to the 7x Irish long boarding champion.
hipster board, with “cute fins”!!
Wait, but is this more or less hipster than a resin tint fish with cedar keels? I need to know where I stand here. And if a man with a beard rides a clear thruster , does the beard make him a hipster or does the thruster cancel out the beard? What if a man without a beard carries a resin tint fish and an alaia down to the beach? Hipster or no?
I have so many questions.
As a man with a beard riding a thruster, I claim hipster cancelling properties, mainly because I nearly landed a floater on an innocent teenager this morning. (To be fair, when you read that back it does look a but hipster though).
Totes legit!
no worries, let me be your guide.
1. more hipster because the fish is proven functional.
2. it’s the grooming style of the beard that usually reveals the hipster.
3.depends on how well he or she rides them. if you can ride an alaia well than you have dedicated time to riding waves. and are therefore not a poser
any more questions? I’m more than happy to help. 🙂
alright, i shall purchase a fedora immediately!
i do not think i can grow a beard though!
no worries, moustaches are cool too.
just kidding!
enjoy your new board, i sincerly hope it rides great and provides you with the joy that you are pursuing. there is no “right” way to surf other than the one that brings you the most joy. i’m not being sarcastic this time.
ha ha i’ll work on that :D:D
fins in the board is a bit like gears on the bike.
a hipster will pay a premium to get fewer.
Great read Jen. Chas smelling the board is very funny. Maybe the board’s lines were just too alluring.
“When I met Chas for lunch later, he insisted on smelling it.” <- Yes!
Manny made me a strange board many years ago and it is still magic.
Oh nice! I think I will keep this one a while 🙂
is it true Chas has worn his nose out and can only lick things now?
Honestly, it’s so short you can’t really step hard anywhere? I feel like it works with pretty even feet — the tail is wide, but there’s volume hiding under the front foot. Idk, I’ve only ridden it once so far 🙂
I have a guitar almost that same color! It’s a tri-fin, though.
hmm that sounds complicated?
A sweet 60’s Hagstrom perhaps?
Fuuuuuck I wish! A Sonic Blue Jazzmaster I custom built. Not too shabby, though.
Ha! Sonic blue. Its like calling a song yellow. Love me a nice jazzmaster.
Part of Fender’s genius renaming of 1960’s Chevrolet colors! And not to be confused with Daphne Blue either, damnit. (PS: Coldplay called a song “Yellow” aaaaaaand I’ll be seeing myself out now.)
Looks like a shark egg pod.
great story, we need action pix of this screaming fast, tiffany blue board
i will try to provide if some waves come!
In this week’s photosynthetic news, we have on one side of the pacific blue boards for boys named after a part of a plant and on the other side it’s blue boards for girls named after what you do before planting .Have fun ,in the garden of the sea, Jen and Nick and don’t forget to plant the rail .
If Willy Wonka manufactured surfboards instead of chocolate, I imagine his factory would be a lot like Moonlight Glassing. For a warehouse filled with surfboards, where envelopes of cash exchange hands, it sure feels like a magical place. Why else would Chas want to lick your board? “The the schnozberries taste like schnozberries!”
It is very candy shop. There are a lot of magical things in there for reals 🙂
because his nose doesn’t work anymore?
Midlength is the next natural progression, she makes nice ones…
Ha ha, nooooooo. But you’re right — she does make very nice things of all sizes.
Red balls magazine?
Might be less painful than Blueballs ?
Solid Board Review Week entry, Jen. I can’t wait for Chas and Del’s…
I only do pointless snark these days.
I hear ya. I get stuck while commenting, focusing on stuff for long periods, be it Falco, MS Paint, fake surf news stories/headlines, the inadequacy/lameness of Travie/Scales… I’m not really going anywhere with this…
we noticed
Ha ha, man, I don’t think we can call it a board review? Like I picked it up and rode it once so far. LT and NC can keep that job 🙂
I’d be interested in reading more articles by you about women shapers who deserve more positive attention for their shaping prowess.
Oh! Well, that’s good! Because I do have one more in my queue for y’all. When I meet more, I will share, for reals.