"Some wild seas I tell you," says big-wave photographer Daniel Russo.
Ain’t it just the sweetest thing when a swell that’s been telegraphed for two weeks arrives and some very good carnage ensues?
Earlier today, a south swell hitting the island of Nias, home to the famous right etc, pulled the anchor and snapped the rope of a local boat sending it deep into the famous lineup.
“The owner had it anchored for two weeks in the keyhole area leading up to the swells,” says the Hawaiian photographer, Daniel Russo, famous for his wide-angle shots in dramatic waves. “There was no one on it and it drifted straight into the impact zone. (The photographer) Chris Bryan was screaming his little lungs out, ‘Best clip of my life!’
“Some wild seas I tell you,” says Russo.
Here, various angles.
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540.
https://youtu.be/a50Hk2705k…
Cool Nias section in this movie. Ulu 32. Pretty cool surf flick.
Nias starts at 19:10. Big swell at 21:42. Water looked way cleaner back then.
Um…I also have an AirBnB for the US Open.
What I provide:
One half of a plush leather couch (must share with Labrador retriever)
A Blake Case surfboard from 1993
1 12 pack of Tecate
A pack of American Spirits
A towel
A tattoo gun (meth not provided)
A stones throw from the most consistently below average beachbreaks on the West Coast.
Book now!
… and the diesel fuel onboard?
Best footage I’ve seen at Nias since Thornton Fallander’s tube to roundhouse cut back in Storm Riders released in 1982 . I say the boat was a goofy . Never seen natural footers go as vertical on that section ?
I wasn’t big on movies at the time, but the stills that made up the double page in Tracks were a big influence.
In the early 90s, I surfed with him at solid 4′-6′ Uluwatu one day. Met him in one of the warungs when you still had to walk in.
“Hey mate, can I borrow some wax?”
“Sure”
“Thanks, I’m Lemon”
“Thornton”
*Thinking…That name seems familiar. Oh shit.
At a time when the lives of our heroes weren’t 24/7 social media throat stuffing, it was much easier to not recognise a face, no matter how much of a personal hero. His surfing was sublime. Hooking under the roof and slipping out just under the falling lip to repeat was one of the greatest live surfing experiences of my life
Hopefully there was some vegans on that boat.
You don’t like society’s flawless angels?
Too busy eating meatless dick.
Looking forward to watching it on @getsend (said no one)
Get bent.
I got some Nias and Sibolga tales that would make you glad to be the boat.
Me too ha. #fuksibolga
Watcha got?
Caught the bus solo across indo as a grom an was dumped on the side Of the road at 3am.
Found a dodgy as place to crash only to have Kent’s trying come through the manhole in the roof an try steal my stuff. Copstyen trying to shake money outta me for Hurting the would be thief. Pretty standard sibolga happenings at the time it is the arsehole of the world. Or at least Sumatra.
..the world.
Ah at least someone else agrees 🤘🏽
..but when you fly over it, you look down and it looks quite pretty, little bays and off shore islands etc. I suppose you can’t see all the thieves from that distance.
#fuksibolga indeed.
It’s a tortured little port city, ain’t that the truth. Fires. Earthquakes. No dry season either.
Wanna loose em?
Perhaps. If I can do it justice I’ll forward it.
The People™ is. Just is. Justice? Nary a result achieved. Just is will do just fine.
Bang it out and I’ll reshape…
Look at you fishing without bait or even a hook.
Sometimes salmon jump straight into the boat…
Where i got syphilis
Oh you did not.
Dat’s da BOAT, getting some barrels, li’dat.
Boatest Of All Time
Boaty McBoatFace?