Listen: “Just smoke now because you’re gonna have to quit one day!”

Wise words from the one, the only, Jamie Brisick!

Our surf world would be a bleak shadow if we didn’t have Jamie Brisick. The one-time professional surfer sees things and writes them so gorgeously, so uniquely, that his great body of work provides intelligence, humor, freshness but most importantly color.

Bright, vivid color from creamy pastel to loamy earth tones. Whether he is telling abstract stories on Instagram, award-winning, heart-breaking love stories on Facebook or Peter Drouyn’s transition to Westerly Windina in the epic book Becoming Westerly (buy here!).

Oh we don’t deserve the man. He was a Fulbright Scholar, you know, alongside Joseph Heller, Sylvia Plath and William Jefferson Clinton. The only one-time professional surfer Fulbright Scholar in history? I’d have to think so.

And it was my very great honor to sit across the zinc countertop from Jamie and David Lee on Friday. Jamie was in town to give the keynote address at the PHILOsurfer conference in Del Mar and swung by. David Lee had just returned from another jaunt to Florida’s Space Coast where he is heavily considering buying a vacation home.

We chatted about many things, about sexuality, cloistered-ness, smoking and short john wetsuits. I won’t spoil with my own ramblings. Our best show yet? I’d be lying if I said, “No.”

Listen here!