Wise words from the one, the only, Jamie Brisick!
Our surf world would be a bleak shadow if we didn’t have Jamie Brisick. The one-time professional surfer sees things and writes them so gorgeously, so uniquely, that his great body of work provides intelligence, humor, freshness but most importantly color.
Bright, vivid color from creamy pastel to loamy earth tones. Whether he is telling abstract stories on Instagram, award-winning, heart-breaking love stories on Facebook or Peter Drouyn’s transition to Westerly Windina in the epic book Becoming Westerly (buy here!).
Oh we don’t deserve the man. He was a Fulbright Scholar, you know, alongside Joseph Heller, Sylvia Plath and William Jefferson Clinton. The only one-time professional surfer Fulbright Scholar in history? I’d have to think so.
And it was my very great honor to sit across the zinc countertop from Jamie and David Lee on Friday. Jamie was in town to give the keynote address at the PHILOsurfer conference in Del Mar and swung by. David Lee had just returned from another jaunt to Florida’s Space Coast where he is heavily considering buying a vacation home.
We chatted about many things, about sexuality, cloistered-ness, smoking and short john wetsuits. I won’t spoil with my own ramblings. Our best show yet? I’d be lying if I said, “No.”
Listen here!
Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.
Your comments are still here. Every one of them.
Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.
Connect Disqus to reveal.
Was it just me or was this (that is the 10 minutes or so I could tolerate in two separate but equally excruciatingly painful listening sessions) about as banal as surf talk can be?
Next Grit, guest Devon Howard. Discussion of the previous weeks egg sessions and Chaz’s mid length “coming out”. I can’t fucking wait.
First mid/wave egg claim oughta be good. Ugg that soft posing… Ugg eggs too.
I’ll listen to it later
Kim Gordon sure got an upgrade in the end. What a babe of great vintage.
TEAM KIM
“the PHILOsurfer conference in Del Mar”
Uh, the what now?
That’s what I sorta thought too until I went. It was epic!
Please list some titles of papers presented. I must see the tortured mashups of Heideggers and Wittgensteins and broisms.
Rigid and fluid, together at last hahhaha.
Besides hearing Chas’ tumbler of vodka on the rocks clinking about, the best part was Chas’ SNL-ish Deep Thoughts by Jack Handy moment…Meep Thoughts by Chas Smith, surfing’s shore is littered with the flotsam and jetsum of 20 years, no 40 years of epic. Why wouldn’t they (WSL) DRUG these guys in to the booth. Cocaine + Surfing (Buy Here)
Ha!
https://youtu.be/8rxIPiAOVRI
what a legend