Become a tuberiding queen in North Sumatra.

Gimme: Retire on vast beachfront estate in Sumatra with epic waves for $US295,000!

Say so long to the West and live out your days in tropical splendour.

You got a retirement plan?

You ever worked out how the harvest years are going to play out?

You going to be the old man who sits in the front room of his rendered brick townhouse in the heart of suburbia, an unresponsive wife ignoring your pawing at night, every dream you ever had so crushed you pray for the local teen hoodlums to break in and end your suffering with an iron bar?

A common retirement among the gung-ho, of course, is to take your First World money into the tropics, where your dollars buys palaces and endless indulgence.

It ain’t such a bad idea if you can take the suffocating heat and the feeling you’re just another in a long line of damn colonialists, spraying your cash, stomping over local culture, buggering the coolies etc.

Earlier today, I saw, and was rather taken by a beachfront site, with a development plan, on Simeulue Island, the next island up from Nias in North Sumatra.

The joint, which still has to be built, costs $US295,000, a number you’ll negotiate down by at least ten per cent, so let’s call it $US270,000.

It comes with five bungalows, an open air restaurant, a couple of beachfront gazebos, a boat, a van, a couple of scooters and enough land, or so they say, to build four or five more bungalows.

Your pretty open-air restaurant.

The only downside is it’ll only be sold as a land-and-building contract only, and must be sold to a private owner or syndicate.

Which means, you can’t run it as a commercial surf resort.

But who needs kooks and guests weeping about sunburn and the wind direction and too much and not enough swell when you’re the master of your little piece of surf heaven, anyway?

Less than three hundred gees for all this, can y’believe.


Important a few lovers of various stripes from Medan, bring your friends from the west and away you go,

Buy here. 

Mayor Pete, throwing a mock shaka. Divisive. Rude.
Mayor Pete, throwing a mock shaka. Divisive. Rude.

Nasty Turn: “Hated” surfers and other openly queer protestors kicked out of Democratic frontrunning candidate Mayor Pete Buttigieg’s San Francisco rally!

We're here. We surf. We're in your face!

But have you ever tried to surf San Francisco’s Ocean Beach? That stretch of sand and tired arms and swell line after swell line after swell line just hammering and hammering and hammering?

I haven’t but have stood in the parking lot there, alongside local and Maverick charger Taylor Paul, thinking, “How in the world do people do that? Put themselves on such a paddlewheel, multiple 100s of duck dives paddlewheel? For what? For why?”

So didn’t paddle out.

But God bless the San Francisco surfer. Bless her fortitude. Bless his pluck.

It is a proper hell out there and these same surfers, or at least some of them, presumably, tried to attend the caustic, surf hating rally of Democratic frontrunning candidate Mayor Pete Buttigieg’s San Francisco. Were they welcomed with open arms? Thanked for being personally progressive and also likely slamming their heads into Ocean Beach’s unrelenting negativism? An apt metaphor for current American politics if ever there was one.



And we must turn to the New York Post for more.

Two queer activists unhappy with Pete Buttigieg’s “middle of the road” politics were kicked out of his San Francisco fundraiser Friday after interrupting him on stage with shouted questions, a report said.

The protesters peppered Buttigieg with questions at San Francisco’s National LGBTQ Center for the Arts, immediately drawing boos from supporters of the former South Bend, Indiana mayor, according to The Guardian.

“I respect your activism, but this is a gathering for supporters of our campaign and I just got a question about my husband and I’m really excited to answer it,” Buttigieg said in response to the activists, the report said.

After the event, a Buttigieg supporter confronted the activists.

“You’re homophobes, that’s what you all are, you’re homophobes!” the supporter yelled.

“We’re all gay!” a protester responded.

And we are.

Truly are. Surfers and Mayor Pete must not, should not forget that however much he hates us and Hillary Clinton hates us that we will not be silenced.

Is this our political moment?


More as the story develops.

Hollywood funnyman and brave VAL pioneer Jonah Hill on surfing: “Damn, at 35 you can start doing shit you’ve always wanted to do!”

A Surfing Life.

It’s impossible not to love Jonah Hill. The actor, a very funny man, first popped onto my horizon starring alongside Martin Starr, Seth Rogan, Michael Cerra etc. in Superbad. From there it was Moneyball, 21 Jump Street, The Wolf of Wallstreet, on and on.

The only dog, maybe, was Get Him to the Greek alongside Russell Brand but I only say such critical things because I watched it on an airplane and was possibly not in the right mood.

In any case, six shorts months ago Jonah Hill faced his fears and went surfing. Via Instagram he declared:

Been terrified to surf my whole life . Totally random fear and at the same time always been a secret dream of mine. Turned out to be one of the most fun experiences I’ve ever had. Not only was it so fun and challenging but more so I’m like “damn, at 35 you can start doing shit you’ve always wanted to do.” Thanks @patmillin and Franco for taking me and @88surfboards.

Well, if you believe you can achieve and Jonah Hill just went out and slayed Malibu.

Don’t believe?

Per celebrities-in-the-wild website TMZ;

Jonah hit the sand with his surfboard just before 10 AM Friday near the famous Gladstones restaurant in Malibu.

Pretty impressive … considering the waves there can be pretty intense.


Click here for many pictures of where six months of training can take a purpose-driven VAL.

But, quickly, does it surprise you that James Franco (above) rides a wax-free Tomo much taller than he?

It does me for some reason but should it?

Bon Appétit: New Zealand surfers treated to a free feast of “moules-frites” as 500,000 mussels cooked to death on hot beach!

Haute cuisine!

To my eyes, climate change is like a glass half filled. Oh, I know the trendy take is to call that same glass half empty and bemoan the various troubles, calamities, signs of the apocalypse etc. but where is the anti-depression in that?

No, climate change is a gift, a beautiful bounty and some lucky New Zealand surfers were just feted at a Michelin-starred beach with a mega-serving of  moules-frites as 500,000 mussels became cooked to death on a beach thanks increasing ocean temperatures and hotter skies.

Shall we fasten our bibs around our necks and travel there ourselves, digitally? I can almost smell that delicate white wine sauce now.

New Zealand resident Brandon Ferguson posted a video on Facebook from Maunganui Bluff Beach, located on the country’s North Island, showing hundreds-of-thousands of dead mussels that had washed up on the shore.

“I’m local to the area so I’m always out on ‘the coast’ gathering food for the family,” he said. “That day I was out with friends and family while they were fishing. We waited for the tide to turn so we could gather mussels.”

But instead, Ferguson saw hundreds of thousands of green-lipped mussels that had turned up dead.

“It smelled like dead rotting seafood,” Ferguson said. “Some of the mussels were empty, some of them were dead … Some were just floating around in the tide.”

“There were well over 500,000 mussels and shells littering the coastline.”

A 2019 report from the New Zealand government supports Ferguson’s theory — climate change has been warming sea temperatures, devastating the country’s native marine plants, animals and habitats.

World going to hell etc. but, really, my problem here is Mr. Ferguson criticized nature’s effort at a difficult Belgian classic with the whole “smelled like dead and rotting seafood” line. I imagine that he was poorly raised and never learned the “if you don’t have anything nice to say…” good manners.

In another note, one-time professional surfer Carissa Moore credits moules-frites for helping her “surf like a goddess.”

Small world.

Rich and the scars of his radical prostatectomy. | Photo: @riklove72

Former world # 17 surfer and winner of Trestles event hit with second cancer diagnosis

Tsunami, shark attack, cancer, ain't a lot can keep a good man down.

You can’t keep a good man, or so the saying goes.

Richie Lovett, who beat Taj Burrow at his peak to win the Trestles event back in 2003 and who was hit with bone cancer two years later and forced to quit surfing altogether after radical hip surgery before a long rehabilitation, announced on IG this morn a second diagnosis.

“New scars to add to the collection courtesy of cancer diagnoses #2 in the past 14 years. Radical prostatectomy using the DaVinci Robot removed the entire prostate and the disease. Post op biopsy confirmed positive margins and no spread outside the gland.”

Rich, who will turn forty-seven this year, ain’t no stranger to life-or-death experiences.

Apart from the two cancers, he’s been attacked by a shark and a tsunami in the Grajagan jungle, along with Rob Bain and co, all of which he wrote about in 2013, with a little help from Sean Doherty, in his book, The Big Sea

A lovely man and we wish him well.