Listen: “Imagine if 10 years ago you were
approached by a time traveler and he was like, ‘Look…!'”
By Chas Smith
"...the year 2020 is going to be an absolute
circus."
Wild days. Wild times. Sheltering in place.
Everyone in the world, save truck drivers and hand sanitizer
manufacturers, jobless. Truck drivers, had sanitizer manufacturers
and podcasters though podcasters do the work for free.
Out of care.
Out of love.
Because what does these wild times, wild days need more than
endless banal entertainment?
Nothing so interesting as to cause anyone to want to leave their
shelter inspired.
Also nothing so boring as it furthers depression.
Surf podcasts fit the bill and to a tee so David Lee Scales and
I go to work for free for you.
I’m currently watching Downton Abbey having missed it when it
actually mattered.
Endless banal entertainment.
Listen here!
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Watch: Fun-loving seal and flirtatious
Great White Shark engage in “see it to believe it” bout of “tickle
torture!”
By Chas Smith
Laugh and play.
Any man or woman who grew up with siblings is
well acquainted with the playful agony of tickle torture. Laughing
until tears then loss of breath then, more often than not, shouts
to parents to make the whole thing stop. But always fun. Always
wonderful fun.
And to think that Great White sharks, apex predators, man-eaters
can put a pause on causing death/destruction and find a moment to
play with fun-loving seals.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5JFbKFJeUF/
In moments like these, the beauty of nature uplifts and
inspires.
Shows us all a way forward.
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Chas Smith on the ongoing disaster bigger
than COVID-19: “Does death only matter when it potentially touches
someone we know?”
By Chas Smith
Many have likely flown over bodies being thrown
into pits on their way to a fine and fun surf vacation.
I am a flippant bastard, true, and horrible.
Fallen, callous, an asshole to the nth degree and deserve all the
scorn I’ve been dished plus so, so much more.
Unforgivable.
Empty.
A surf journalist.
But this Coronavirus Apocalypse, this End of Times, will either
be the hill we traipse over or the hill I die upon.
Many furious emails, messages, DMs regarding my flippant bastard
position even though I myself am isolated.
Not surfing. Shut away in protection of others.
But I’m banking on the former.
That this will be a hill we traipse over then some of us will,
should be embarrassed.
Now, let’s look.
Let’s think.
Worldwide death toll from China’s Great Gift is currently at 20k
though climbing. Each a tragedy.
Each a travesty but would you like to know how many people died
in Yemen during the last few years?
The vast majority equally innocent and from deaths much more
traumatic?
Children by the wheelbarrow full?
Very near 200,000 in “directly target attacks” many more
including starvation, lack of medicine, lack of care and lack of
care.
A tragedy/travesty beyond scope yet so very few agitated people
who screams about “self-isolation” and toeing that line knows or
cares.
Many have likely flown over bodies being thrown into pits on
their way to a fine and fun surf vacation.
So what?
Does death only matter when it potentially touches someone we
know?
Does it matter only when our western hospitals are theoretically
being overrun?
Tell me, please.
I’d love to know.
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My mate says he is still thinking about how to
get to the surf without crossing the beach. He’s made it up to
joining the military to become paratrooper or building a giant
yo-yo or becoming a commercial fisherman. The Beach Bum
Dispatch from Bali: “The beach closures
here feel like a worse sentence than the predicted zombie
apocalypse!”
By Matt George
Is there any sight sadder than a surfer walking
home from the beach with a freshly waxed, dry surfboard?
This is the first time anyone I know can remember when
the Holy Day of Nyepi here in Bali was extended an additional 24
hours.
With an addendum that all beaches will be closed until further
notice.
I woke up to the news this morning, March 26, expecting at least
to be able to dash out to the local bottlo to replace my slab of
beer.
No dice.
On an island that has the only international airport on earth
that completely shuts down for a religious holiday, Nyepi is taken
as seriously as you take yours. The Pecalang are out in force, the
saronged neighborhood enforcers, making sure everybody continues to
observe this New Year’s celebration and the brand new beach
ban.
Among other things, Nyepi is also meant to bore the evil spirits
of the island.
Bore them so badly that they will leave and find better human
mischief elsewhere (Buckle up Sydney).
By the way, it’s only 1942 here in Bali. The Balinese calendar
making us all much younger than we thought. The ultimate de-aging
treatment.
It feels pretty good having a negative number as my age. A
chance to begin again. And wrong all the rights I have committed in
this world gone mad.
And speaking of mad, a friend of mine just told me a story.
Over the phone, of course.
To him, with the beach closures here feeling like a worse
sentence than the predicted zombie apocalypse, he went for
surf.
Or tried to.
The surf was one-to-two-foot today, sunny and straight offshore
at Kuta Beach. A rarity during the monsoon.
My mate figures that if this is what global warming is gonna
look like then “Greta can stand down”.
He also boasted about his all board quiver.
“I have everything from a hand board to a Hypto to a gun to a
longboard. That way when it comes to waves, size never
matters!”Echoing the thoughts of my Brother Sam who once said
“There is never any bad surf, only bad boards”.
The Pecalang nabbed my mate anyway.
He tried to reason with them in the name of all surfers. In
broken Indonesian no less.
It went something like this: His point was that it’s ok to close
the beaches to “beach enthusiasts” and “surf bathers”.
He is nothing of the kind. He is only interested in the waves
beyond the shorebreak.
And with an empty line-up being the safest place to be these
days, he was only looking after his health.
You see? Yes, the Pecalang reasoned, in broken English no less,
that made sense.
But didn’t he have to cross the closed beach to get to the
waves?
This stumped my mate until he offered to paddle down a river
into the surf, would that work?
Sure, they said, but have you ever tried paddling up a river to
get home?
That was the end of it.
A small fine and a surfer walking home from the beach with a
freshly waxed, dry surfboard.
Is their any sight sadder?
My mate says he is still thinking about how to get to the surf
without crossing the beach.
He’s made it up to joining the military to become paratrooper or
building a giant yo-yo or becoming a commercial fisherman.
But his river concept stuck with me. As a metaphor for the
desire to go surfing. The surfona virus.
When it’s on, all we can think of is a one way ticket to
ride.
But until we fill our quota, how often do we think about how to
get home?
Now turn that around.
Our real home is the beach.
Now just how the hell are we gonna get back there?
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Big Brother: New Zealand police commandeer
surf cams to identify, arrest surfers out violating country’s
draconian Coronavirus quarantine laws!
By Chas Smith
Welcome to 1984.
Imagine having bonked your head six weeks ago
and falling into a coma from which you just woke. Asking for a
newspaper you realize that martial law has gripped hold of the
entire world, life is now an odd reflection of Blade Runner and
police officers are using surf cams in New Zealand to identify and
arrest surfers who dared paddle out into the water.
It’d be enough to knock you right out again.
To be quite honest, I’ve never trusted surf cams and to learn of
their early adoption by law enforcement surprises very little but
let’s go to New Zealand’s
Stuff for more. The piece begins as all “surfing in
the time of Coronavirus” do these days…
Surfers took to the waves in Raglan in spite of the
coronavirus lockdown and calls from locals that no-one should be
surfing.
Police spoke to surfers at Manu Bay on Thursday about how
they got there, as driving to surf was not considered essential
travel, acting Waikato District Commander Inspector Andrew
Mortimore told Stuff.
Surfing – even solo – is a no-no while New Zealand is at
alert level four and Raglan Point Boardriders chairperson Luke
Hughes said they were asking people not to surf at Raglan.
Before veering wildly into dystopian totalitarianism…
Surf2Surf, which provides live cameras of New Zealand surf
reports and swell forecasts, said police and NZ Coastguard are now
using their cameras.
They were tweaking and adding some camera views for them and
would be stopping their camera imagery to the public, as well as
reports and forecasting.
And does this turn surprise you? That surf cams would be used
for evil so quickly? Again, it doesn’t me. I’ve never trusted them
or liked them and I think that Surfline should do the world a favor
and shutter its website before American jackboots can be heard
outside its Huntington Beach door.
I think the whole idea of “surf cams” should be revisited once
this damned Chinese Surprise has run its course.