Heroes have risen.
Maybe falling in love with a mid-length surfboard has changed me. Thawed my bitter, cold heart and made me see, for the first time, that “the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun.” That “horses for courses” is the way toward enlightenment.
No such thing as a bad watercraft, only bad people. My hydrofoil doesn’t kill you, I do etc.
Well, whatever the case, today I was sent an instagram post featuring a near-naked New Jersey legend goat boating some 50 degree (10 celsius) storm surge and it captivated me nearly as much as Dane Reynolds newest offering.
Shall we together?
Tell me he doesn’t belong with Mickey Minor, Django and Wade Goodall as a Surf Hero in the Time of Coronavirus.
Note the other surfer in 5 mm, boots, hood and gloves.
Note the effortless roll at the end.
Inspirational.
Very anti-depressive.
Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.
Your comments are still here. Every one of them.
Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.
Connect Disqus to reveal.
We are beyond a demented, disillusioned, delirious breed here in New Jersey… but none the less stoked on the glide.
Surfies Point report would sometimes include a confusing comment about the dreaded goat of Rhyll.
Was out at Surfies on a big dawn session and was continuously dropped in by an old goatie on some pretty big waves.
Read the report when I got home and there he was…the dreaded goat of Rhyll had been spotted after a long absence.
All made sense after that
bravo chas, bravo: “my hydrofoil doesn’t kill people, i do”. a job well done.
“fuck everything” another standout from jon lajoie, thought he was cj hobgood when i first saw the video
well chas bono, i take that as a direct threat, authorities alerted
Performance of the year award, hands down!
That was rad!
I saw a compelling news story the other day declaring our supermarket shelf stackers as pandemic heroes…so yes, I think the hero tag would not be out of place…in the current environment
I can’t support legend…certain standards need to be maintained
anzacs get to be heroes….so does marilyn in aisle 10. she NEVER retreats.
It’s a fair comparison…anyone who has tasted those no name brand meat pies will know they are comparible to hand grenades
They practice those rolls until they look effortless.
About two weeks ago I was on the deck barbecuing and I saw something out in the ocean that didn’t look right. Ran inside, got the binoculars and sure enough it was a guy hanging on to a surfboard too far out and moving at a rapid clip from west to east.
No more than a minute later the Fire Department comes screaming down the block and I told my wife…they are here to rescue that guy I just saw.
Sure enough…that’s what they were there for.
Anyway…they jetski’ed him back in and all was well with the world.
My point…he had on a proper wetsuit and the conditions this time of the year around here don’t leave much room for hypothermia,
That dude, while entertaining, needs to see a professional someone.
Your fire department has jet-skis? Ours are volunteers and sometimes can’t afford the hay to keep the horses fuelled up to pull the water cart…
This is NY…our municipalities know how to spend. Boats, motorcycles, Segways, you name it!
Besides, we average at least 3 or 4 drownings a year so the jet ski is one of the few things that actually makes sense.
That’s a non-Essential for 3mm wetsuit he’s wearing.
God that’s intense, no wettie, the set punch through, the drop in, the attempt to get barrelled, then the casual roll. This old Goat boat captain has gone Rus mad.
Frigid waters is what gets me to mid length.
Hawaii I’m going XL for the winter.
Indo I’m XXL around Kuta beach.
Now that brings back memories of growing up surfing at Currumbin with flotillas of these fat fucks sliding sideways down waves dropping in and cleaning up shins.
Not sure if he is hero for anything other than the lack of wetsuit, but even then I’ve seen a few walrus with lower skin folds.
I know I’ve mentioned this before but this seems an appropriate time to repeat myself.
In the swell of the winter at Currumbin in the mid eighties (forget exactly what year, it was a foggy period haha) I saw a goaty getting fully barreled and make it out on a solid 2×OH beauty.
No one hooted of course but those of us who saw it looked at eachother in shocked amazement…
J-Bay, 2004, solid 6 foot swell and goat boat guy getting slotted,and busting airs, i got some video of it but fucked if I can be bothered looking for it. No hoots but we were pissing ourselves.
Insomnia here. Need salt lamp.
Why do I get the feeling that a BG exclusive with Chas and ELo SUPing together is all but inevitable?
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Could title said exclusive.. “Sweeping to success : From the Breakers to the Boardroom with Erik”