1 + 1 = Tube
I woke up early this morning, prepared my daughter’s school lunch, French pressed a cup of coffee and then got down to the business of surf journalism. Initially, it seemed like nothing newsworthy had happened while I slept other than the bubbling story of 11 x World Champion Kelly Slater unfollowing his beautiful Chinese girlfriend on Instagram (more soon) but right when I was about to give up, I stumbled on something that shocked me profoundly.
It was in a University of Southern California newsletter, not a normal stop for me and I don’t know what made me click the link reading…
…though click I did and and glanced over the first paragraph.
John Walsh describes himself as a “nutcase” who likes to surf giant waves.
“I’m a diehard surfer,” said Walsh, associate professor of gerontology and assistant dean of education at the USC Leonard Davis School of Gerontology. “I’ve traveled the world surfing, and I’m actually really good at it. To keep it going, though, I have to stay limber.”
My mind instantly reeled but I didn’t quite know why so went back up and read slowly.
And then it hit me like a brick. Have you ever, in all your surfing life, heard someone say they surf “giant waves” and also that they are “really good at it?”
I have not and the norm shattering pronouncement made me intensely uneasy. Does he really surf giant waves? Is he good at it? What is “giant” for him? Overhead? Waimea? And who is he comparing himself to in terms of “really good?” Mark Richards? Anastasia Ashley?
Do we trust the statement a priori?
Should we all start saying we surf giant waves and surf them well?
Is this what they mean by “manifestation?”