Listen: Former world #2 surfer Ian Cairns
on cheating Democrats, Edward Snowden being fixed on the “Russian
teat” and strangling a Hawaiian surf star on a ten-foot wave: “You
have to be a gnarly tough son of a bitch cocksucker to go beyond
the point where you think you might die!”
By Derek Rielly
And a blow-by-blow account of contract beatings on
the North Shore.
It was with considerable pleasure that Charlie Smith and
I engaged the pro surfing pioneer and former world number
two Ian Cairns in an hour of conversation yesterday
evening.
Cairns, a sprightly sixty-something and famous in the nineteen
seventies for brazenly presenting his titanic buttocks to the beach
as he flexed into bottom turns he himself described as “berserk”,
is very human, often brilliant, so caustic, and with a dynamic
contempt for all who cramp and spoil.
He is described by another legend, Rabbit Bartholomew, as a
“strong minded son of a bitch, a brilliant politician and an
absolute master in big surf.”
A delightful sparring partner.
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Watch: Nic Von Rupp and João Guedes
identified as surfers who bumped into each other, maybe politely,
at “The Melee in Nazaré!”
By Chas Smith
Stuff happens.
I often write “more as the story develops” at
the bottom of my various pieces of surf journalism hoping beyond
hope that something might. An extra bit of insight. Another angle.
Someone clarifying. Oh, I never go searching for the “more” as
that’s not how surf journalism works but this very morning more did
develop concerning The Melee at Nazare and landed right on my
keyboard.
What joy.
You’ll recall, two days ago, when all hell broke
loose at Portugal’s most famous big wave. Rumors of
fights and near fights in the lineup. Surfers jumping on other
surfer’s ski drivers. Two men taking off on one wave and becoming
very incensed. I did my best to get to the bottom of who was
involved but lips were zipped and details sketchy.
Well, this morning it emerged those two men were Nic Von Rupp
and João Guedes.
Shit happens, it’s the way you deal with it that matters!
Dropping down this wave feeling @joaoguedessurfs board on my heels
was one of the scariest moments out at Nazaré. No bad vibes here,
Joao and myself are friends and glad we both are Ok after this.
Watch the full #vonfroth episode link in my bio. This clip filmed
by @maquinavoadora
Very cool. But how do you think the matter was dealt with?
More as the story develops.
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Portugal’s government bans surfing at
Nazaré: “Failure to comply with this determination incurs in a
criminal offense punished by law!”
By Chas Smith
Officially on ice.
Well there she goes. Surf forecasting website
Magic Seaweed is
reporting that Portugal’s National Health Ministry is
enforcing a ban on surfing Nazaré beginning today, November 4th,
enforced by the harbor captain with “failure to comply” incurring
“a criminal offense punished by law.”
You certainly recall the recent “monster” swell which had much
fighting and ski jumping and bad behavior. More than 30,000
spectators packed the cliffs to watch the punching and hair pulling
and no-no business, which alarmed authorities. Oh, not the naughty
water play but all those looky loos.
Europe, like the rest of the world, is experiencing a second or
third wave of the dreaded Coronavirus pandemic and having many
people together is not generally smiled on so there she goes.
But were you planning an autumn trip to The House that Garrett
Built? Maybe a little poke around the lineup like famous newsman
Anderson Cooper?
Ice those, for now.
More as the story develops.
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Watch: Whale attempts to swallow two
kayakers whole in what experts are calling “A Divine Comedy!”
By Chas Smith
"I'm thinking, 'I'm dead. I'm dead.'"
But are all of your nerves completely frayed
after last night’s election results marathon that will likely
stretch out for weeks and weeks and weeks? Republican signature
experts and Democrat signature experts sitting side by side in
fluorescent rooms surrounded by Republican lawyers and Democrat
lawyers presided over by many judges.
Not exciting at all but we can always count on nature to deliver
and in Avila Beach, yesterday, very near Pismo on California’s
central coast a sperm whale tried to swallow two whale watchers
whole in what must be called a Divine Comedy but lets not tarry.
Let’s hear directly from the actresses, Julie McSorley and Liz
Cottriel, in this wonderful Biblical tableau.
McSorley told the local news
affiliate, “I saw the big pool of fish, the big bait
ball come up out of the water I saw the whale come up. I thought,
‘Oh, no! It’s too close.’ All of a sudden, I lifted up, and I was
in the water.”
“The whale was right here in my face, literally,” added
Cottriel. “I’m thinking to myself, ‘I’m gonna push. Like, I’m gonna
push a whale out of the way! It was the weirdest thought. I’m
thinking, ‘I’m dead. I’m dead.’ I thought it was gonna land on me.
Next thing I know, I’m underwater.”
But the whale was just playin’ and both of them emerged
unscathed with a wonderful story to tell their grandchildren.
Back to the election, though, did I downplay the thrill of
watching signature experts, lawyers and judges dance a glorious
tango? Will the next weeks and weeks and weeks be even better than
competitive professional surfing?
Much to discuss.
For weeks.
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Open Thread: Comment live as Donald J.
Trump and Joseph R. Biden paddle out for what is being called “The
Most Exciting Final in US Presidential Election History!”
By Chas Smith
The hooter has sounded!
And the day of all days is finally here. Those
on the left have been waiting, albeit not very patiently, for four
agonizingly long years. Those on the right have alternated between
cheering, robustly, and wincing. Facial muscles exhausted. Beverly
Hills’ Rodeo Drive has been boarded up, World Surf League
CEO Erik Logan has been getting covered up all in
anticipation of November 3, 2020.
The most exciting, most talked about, most early voted on
Presidential Election in United States and America’s history!
The pollsters, so cocksure but four years ago, are hedging
heavily with their now-tarnished icon Nate Silver only
being able to write, “And indeed — although nobody
needs any reminders of this after 2016 — Trump can win. All the
election models are bullish on Biden, but they are united in that a
Trump win is still plausible despite his seemingly steep deficit in
polls.”
But do you feel debilitating anxiety? A barely-harnessed sense
of euphoria? Will you be watching multiple channels, reading
multiple news sources until the clock strikes next week or will you
be hiding in bed watching Cheers re-runs and dreaming of simpler
times?
Well don’t do Cheers. Instead, come to the place where everybody
knows your Disqus account moniker and be amongst friends. Oh, we
may not all agree but we fight funny and, when all is said and
done, we’ll still have each other.