"We had one shot and we missed it…"
Sixty one year old says, “I don’t know if it’s having a screw loose or what…”
"I barely get away with it here and there but fuck it, it might kinda suck to get hurt, but it’s the funnest shit ever.”
Everything you ever wanted to know about artificial wave creation in one easy to swallow pill.
Masked cops and soldiers round-up recalcitrant surfers; hit 'em with stiff-ish fines.
Come to a joint crawling with Whites and where no one gets hurt…
Seventy-eight million litres or twenty million gallons of precious raindrops…
"This is NOT how I planned my day...I didn't get to go for a dive or a surf."
"Nearly thirty years later, I still hate the wave," says Dane.
A cop threatens to taser you while your two kids cling to your back and you stand in knee-deep water. What do you do?
As for spectators at the early events, "you had the guys hanging off in the bushes, smoking dope and calling bullshit on the whole thing."
Given the paucity of high-level surfing in front of us, will you be thrilled to watch Filipe, Brother, Griff and co oxidise Lemoore's water spouts?
Gone for two years.
Enter the castle of John John Florence's lifelong shaper…
Too good to be true but excellent marketing play etc.
"It feels like the ultimate form of betrayal to fall victim to the one thing a surfer recognizes and fears as a possibility."