Unprecedented times.
Sometimes, when Surfline says my local is 4-6 feet, I play “Wave of the Winter” out the front. The Surfline/O’Neill collaboration that was “created to celebrate unsung local heroes who charge at beaches around the country, all winter long” is in its 11th season and already off to a wonderful start what with Pacific energy raging nonstop.
I know I had a decent entry yesterday. A slightly overhead bomb scooped away from a young man on a twin-fin who didn’t look up to the task. Early drop, straight to the bottom then up to the top with a slow-motion arc ender.
Very fine but not quite as fine as Frenchwoman Justine Dupont’s Jaws barrel from two days ago. Let us watch together.
Whoa.
And the guts to pull in at that wild, chattery speed is very impressive along with the clean make and let us compare the above with Peter Mel’s Mavericks ride seen around the world.
Are you #TeamLesBleus or #TeamQuinquagenarian?
Exciting days.
you guys got a call out on The Outside Magazine podcast today. This article in particular
I like it – am impressed by it – but can’t fully enjoy a wave into which the surfer did not paddle.
wow. I cant think of a more gnarly wave surfed by a women. that was nuts.
Unfair advantage–Frogs are naturally amphibious water-based creatures.
I hear tennis is good for access all areas
Is “scooped away” the new PC terminology for “I straight up burned that guy”?
Watching the snow skier towed into jaws tells me not a lot of skill is involved with being pulled into big waves. For me seeing men or women commit to putting themselves into the heaviest part of the wave, turning in, around, and under the lip on 30 foot plus waves. Really gets my attention regarding tow. The real question which people would be doing it if no cameras, and no “likes”were involved?
Maya Gabeira just announced an Only Fans to throw shade
Suck on that Maya
oi! that’s my excuse for not surfing it, get your own.
You hurt me so good honey. Me love you longtime.
both are bananas, both by relatively unassuming hellpersons
Not sure I would describe that wave as gorgeous though….windy and bumpy and bloody huge. It looks terrifying to me. Give me some nice clean double overhead Indo perfection any day of the week !
Was flipping through the channels and ESPN had the Stab non chlorine air whatever and six foot Macaronis looked incredibly fun.
You did say apples to oranges. Kind of a jackass comment to write to a mountain bike racer and sport writer anyways.
Don’t think paddle waves should be compared to tow waves anyways . I think the problem girls have is less paddling power, same at pipe. Keala Kennelly has shown that it’s not about being scared or not willing to take beatings. Just different body types .
Built in inflatables but. That has to give you some confidence.
She was picking off some good paddle waves in the last few Mavs sessions.
Paddle in > Tow in, simple
Nice, mine got deleted. Butch dude chicks should stick to tennis and track/field! Delete me forever.
I am not a number, I’m a free man!….
Butch dude chicks…huh , have you actually seen Justine , 1/2 French/Brazilian…she’s actually a gorgeous athlete , what a wave ……but I am sure a butch /macho guy like you would do better!
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and being a Brazzo frog doesn’t mean shit other than being a Brazzo frog. I’m sure there are plenty of ugly ones and some gorgeous ones too.
yeah and I am one of the beholders…..I helped her a couple of years ago in France with her Dad , on prepping her Tow bds for Nazare….I was only commenting on VS’s stereotyping of girls who actually charge being butch/dude chicks which is just not true and actually insulting to Justine and all women!
Best to ignore, CkT jr.
I had the pleasure of some interactions with her recently. She’s a straight up goddess, sweet person with a voice that makes a guy weak at the knees.
yep , she is a class act…..and I think she had wave of the day ….any better?
Agree.
Did you just hit on me? I mean, I wish you better health and a good life. But I don’t swing that way, man!
butch/macho guy threatened by a 50 kg woman , now there ‘s a hit for you , and of course it’s all about you ……
industry ho
Was cruel and unnecessary, your Avatar picture sums up your voice.
If you sat for (5) minutes in a group of women(just imagine, I know it would never happen for ya), you would see how they talk about men. But go ahead, you think this will make you more attractive to them. I get it, but wasn’t high school a long time ago for you!? This will not change the past, you’re still not going to get laid.
so getting laid is one of your life goals?
Ummm face to face in a group you can say anything you wish.
You’re being cruel anonymously on a well read surf platform.
One can continue to swim against the tide, but that does not mean they are going in the right direction young grasshopper
Another conservative* intellectual* silenced by big* tech*.
What a set!
Holy fucking Jebus!
Can’t take anything away from the commitment of pulling in but can someone please tell her to stop the fucking chop hopping all over Peahi? Looks lame and is an obvious grab from Kai Lenny’s bag of tricks except he’s doing it while dropping in and adding 360’s to it (granted still looks completely lame).
Maybe she was just stoked out of her head. Bit of adrenaline?
Pretty sure I saw footage of her a couple days ago hopping all over the place at Jaws.
Didn’t see/know. Bad habit, for sure, but after that barrel I’d say allowed.
Again, props for charging. You certainly never saw my ass at Peahi.
Could be she’d done so much meth that’s she was chop-hopping over imaginary obstacles.
Don’t know her but I doubt meth is her thing. That was a Santa Cruz thing years back.
What a charger, amazing.